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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: Naweo on Fri, 27 May 2016, 17:08:49
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Heya, for most of my switches on my keycool 84, desoldering LEDS with pump is quite easy. Desoldering the actual switches is very easy.
However, there are like 4-5 switches where it feels like no matter how many times I try to solder onto the solderpad, it just does not get all out. This is so weird cuz on some of the leds it is really, really easy to desolder.
What is the best way to desolder keyboard leds, what equipment should I get?
I was thinking about getting a desoldering gun for like 40$, but I am not sure it is good?
https://new.elektronik-lavpris.dk/product_thumb.php?img=images%2Fproduktbilleder%2F204654.jpg&w=200&h=200
Thanks guys!
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Heya, for most of my switches on my keycool 84, desoldering LEDS with pump is quite easy. Desoldering the actual switches is very easy.
However, there are like 4-5 switches where it feels like no matter how many times I try to solder onto the solderpad, it just does not get all out. This is so weird cuz on some of the leds it is really, really easy to desolder.
What is the best way to desolder keyboard leds, what equipment should I get?
I was thinking about getting a desoldering gun for like 40$, but I am not sure it is good?
https://new.elektronik-lavpris.dk/product_thumb.php?img=images%2Fproduktbilleder%2F204654.jpg&w=200&h=200
Thanks guys!
add extra solder to the pad, make sure you are heating the solder correctly before you pump it out.
don't buy any desolder irons or stations theyre garbage .
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Yes for whatever reason, a little bit of solder won't heat up and suck up well, so before desoldering LED's, add some solder to the mound. Hold the conical tip at like a 45 degree angle against the base of solder mound and the LED contact. When the mound begins to melt use the iron tip to wiggle the contact back and forth. This helps to melt all the solder and it kind of pulls all of itself together making it easier to suck it up. You can buy workable chinese soldering stations for $30. The temp control is important. If you are going to solder many boards you may want to invest more in a better station.
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Add solder and tin your iron to wet the contact and it should come out easier.
Otherwise a solder sucker or wick are cheaper than a dedicated desoldering iron or station. For SMD's, chip quick is the go to.
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My experience with the $14 plug in irons has been pretty shi***, which is why I prefer even a cheap soldering station. Maybe I had a bad or defective model. You will need a solder sucker for through hole components like LED's and switches. I don't think it can be done entirely with a wick. I've used only 2 solder suckers- the SS-02 and the LyonsBlue. I originally liked the SS-02, but it gets clogged with solder and doesn't eject it well. The LyonsBlue is very powerful and inexpensive and pushes out the old solder very easily and fast. You will have to look at reviews or get others opinions from others for other models.