It is also strange that the squared brackets symbols next to P are printed reverse on the board... many of the joins have bubbled the surrounding PCB .. was that a square tip you used on the iron ?
Is that the paint bubbling up around the solders or flux or?
Without a meter you could try to jumper the switch pins with wire, paperclip, tweezers or anything conductive. That will tell you if its a switch or a pcb issue. Get your self a multimeter even a cheap one is better than none, they come in handy for more than just keyboards.
Have you tried bypassing the diodes with something conductive? Could be a bad batch sprinkled over the board randomly.
Did you check the PCB with Switch Hitter before you soldered?
Did you check the PCB with Switch Hitter before you soldered?
Nope, don't really know how to check if the keys work without soldering them first.
Have you tried bypassing the diodes with something conductive? Could be a bad batch sprinkled over the board randomly.
is there a guide somewhere on how to do that? I'm not very familiar with diodes and their function (the diodes were soldered by lifez)
So I assembled the whole thing for the **** of it. I played some around with the JigOn software, managed to map a few keys, only thing you have to do is select the new key and do update - all, right? Well then I did "something" and the keymaps went away and it's stuck on default settings even though I try to do the same thing again. And also, spacebar stopped working all of a sudden, don't know if I did something in the software or that the pcb must be faulty, really must be the latter one.
Here is a pic of the board, please help make this board great again #nokeyboardleftbehind.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cmGLKgt.jpg)
Doesn't sound like a cold joint to me, that would take out a whole row or column just like a break. The controller looks to be factory soldered so I would rule out everything else before touching that.
I'm still waiting to have the pleasure of using Jigon but the jumbled keys behavior is what I'd expect if you aren't using the right matrix with matching physical layout in your mapping tool - do you get to chose or does it auto-detect what board you have? Can you override?
I don't think your problem is physical anymore, if you get the jumbled keys to work as expected and still don't have left alt it will be worth looking again but until then I suggest you put the soldering iron down :)
Were the smd presoldered? Otherwise it could be a diode soldered incorrectly
I also say check jigon again. Try and flash a default layout then try changing it again.
I had some weird issues where it wouldn't let me swap ctrl and caps lock until I flashed it a couple times.
What does the disconnect button do? Might not want to flash if it still thinks it's connected...
What does the disconnect button do? Might not want to flash if it still thinks it's connected...
Doesn't do anything I'm afraid, at least the board doesn't disconnect. Do you think there may be a flip key like on duck's boards which I need to use?
What does the disconnect button do? Might not want to flash if it still thinks it's connected...
Doesn't do anything I'm afraid, at least the board doesn't disconnect. Do you think there may be a flip key like on duck's boards which I need to use?
Well it sure sounds like it's stuck, until I've got a board to play with I'm just guessing though.
I just got sent a new pcb with diodes not soldered. I got some of the standard black diodes which fit this board but I also got some white smaller diodes with the package which say "108" on them if I recall correctly, do I need to use them on this board?