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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: ckar on Mon, 06 June 2016, 09:19:35
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I might get a Filco Brown Tenkeyless keyboard. I sold mine years ago and I was thinking of buying again. I remember it being a good keyboard with a good build quality. Has anyone ordered one recently, for Filco has things stay the same or degraded?
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Americans can only buy off Amazon from one retailer so that might say something about the quality. Still made in Japan afaik
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Americans can only buy off Amazon from one retailer so that might say something about the quality. Still made in Japan afaik
It's actually made from Costar from Taiwan, and still is.
I think at 11 keyboards now and 5 years later, Filco is still in my top 3 of favorite keyboards.
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Americans can only buy off Amazon from one retailer so that might say something about the quality. Still made in Japan afaik
It's actually made from Costar from Taiwan, and still is.
I think at 11 keyboards now and 5 years later, Filco is still in my top 3 of favorite keyboards.
Aha! Taiwan it is then, thank you for correcting me.
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Don't think Filcos every stopped being good :)
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Honestly it's a bit overpriced in this day and age for what you get IMO,honestly The cheap Ganss boards seem like a mirror clone and they are often half the cost. I would recommend over a Filco at this point
KUL
Leopold
WASD
Nothing i personally see of Filco any longer justifies the price, Filco was THE brand for awhile since the market never used to be flooded with so many quality brands out there but times have changed.
That said has a Filco lowered in quality? Not AFAIK,it's still a well made respectable keyboard...just one that hasn't had any innovation in years and still charges with prices like they are they are the only good brand out there.
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Don't think Filcos every stopped being good :)
yup, sadly the same can't be said for Cherry MX Blues/Browns now vs. 5 years ago
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It still uses the same switches as most, and has better build quality than most.
It's not like a car where technology has changed and we are discussing a model T, this is a keyboard where 95% of the parts are industry standard. I
I agree with LiquidEvilGaming that the price could be a bit lower, there are better deals, but few, if anyone is going to laugh and say you got ripped off, more likely they will say it was a solid choice. Spending a little extra for something of quality that will outlast others is money well spent.
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I might get a Filco Brown Tenkeyless keyboard. I sold mine years ago and I was thinking of buying again. I remember it being a good keyboard with a good build quality. Has anyone ordered one recently, for Filco has things stay the same or degraded?
I think they are pretty good, but I don't know if I'd pay retail for one. If you can find them used for $100>, they become a much more viable solution. Otherwise, like Liquid said, the market is pretty flooded with solid options right now.
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Yup, it is still a good keyboard brand.
However, there are other options that are better for the price too, e.g kul,leopold
FILCO is still good as it has aftermarket cases and detachable cable modification which is already on the other 2 keyboard mentioned above.
I will only get FILCO if you cant tolerate the cherry stab on the other 2, otherwise go for kul or leopold as they have much more function compared to filco.
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If I ever get another Brown board, it's gonna be Filco, hands down. One of the best manufacturers ever.
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Any suggested placed where I can buy a filco keyboard in Canada?
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Try NCIX. I picked up on recently for $40 CAD used.
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Filco keyboards sometimes have problems with aftermarket keycaps rubbing against the case.
Other than that, they are generally rock solid.
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My $0.02 — FILCOs are still nice, well made keyboards, but have since been surpassed by other brands who have built upon their respective designs, whereas FILCO has more or less been maintaining status quo.
Leopold would be a prime example of this : back in the day they were a FILCO alternative (I was going to use the word 'clone' but since the same designer is involved...) some saying with slightly inferior build quality. Fast forward today and their keyboards are very well made, have a very nice feel (their implementation of Cherry stabs surpass the other keyboards I have tried) and sound (very clean, dry sound; no resonance thanks to the sound dampening mat) equipped with thick PBT or ABS double-shot keycaps.
While FILCO holds a special place in my kokoro, in 2016, providing the option to purchase and a similar sales price — I'd recommend Leopold over FILCO.
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Don't think Filcos every stopped being good :)
yup, sadly the same can't be said for Cherry MX Blues/Browns now vs. 5 years ago
What do you mean by this? Your post contradicts a lot of what is mentioned in the thread.
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removed.
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Filco = WASD > Leopold > Ducky. Aren't Filcos about $140? That's cheaper than WASD.
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Don't think Filcos every stopped being good :)
yup, sadly the same can't be said for Cherry MX Blues/Browns now vs. 5 years ago
What do you mean by this? Your post contradicts a lot of what is mentioned in the thread.
TLDR - Filco good. Cherry no longer good.
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it is.
its keycaps is no good tho.
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it is.
its keycaps is no good tho.
Did filco change the plastic?
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It's pad-printed thin ABS. Not outright terrible, thanks to additional coating, but still mediocre compared to certain alternatives.
The benefit of Filco MJ2 is that you can replace basically any part: keycaps, case, controller, PCB&plate, cable.
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it is.
its keycaps is no good tho.
Did filco change the plastic?
the plastic is fine. the lettering isn't.
i just use my keyboard for 3 months and some of the lettering already went gray. (well, i'm a heavy typer indeed, but i do wash my hand before i touch my keyboard)
but i hear that this is a classic filco problem, so maybe the words that they are still maintaining status quo aren't false either.
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it is.
its keycaps is no good tho.
Did filco change the plastic?
the plastic is fine. the lettering isn't.
i just use my keyboard for 3 months and some of the lettering already went gray. (well, i'm a heavy typer indeed, but i do wash my hand before i touch my keyboard)
but i hear that this is a classic filco problem, so maybe the words that they are still maintaining status quo aren't false either.
The first filco keyboard i got was from 2010 or so. Did anything change after that time? I remember the keys (as in the type of plastic feeling on my fingers) being quite good back then (it was a solid durable type of plastic that they used), so as long as they stayed the same I think I will be fine.
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Filco = WASD > Leopold > Ducky. Aren't Filcos about $140? That's cheaper than WASD.
^ This, Costar stabilizer ftw. I can't stand Cherry stabilizer.
it is.
its keycaps is no good tho.
Did filco change the plastic?
the plastic is fine. the lettering isn't.
i just use my keyboard for 3 months and some of the lettering already went gray. (well, i'm a heavy typer indeed, but i do wash my hand before i touch my keyboard)
but i hear that this is a classic filco problem, so maybe the words that they are still maintaining status quo aren't false either.
The first filco keyboard i got was from 2010 or so. Did anything change after that time? I remember the keys (as in the type of plastic feeling on my fingers) being quite good back then (it was a solid durable type of plastic that they used), so as long as they stayed the same I think I will be fine.
I think the issue with this is that Filco keycap printing method is pad printed. However I heard rumor that they switched to laser etched now so it might be ok.
That being said Filco Ninja > all. It's like best of both worlds lol and this basically negate the printing issue. :thumb:
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Hi. I think it is a great board. not fancy with colors and stuff but good and reliable.
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Then what is the difference between these 2 keyboards?
one is FKBN87M/EB
the other is FKBN87M/EB2
https://www.diatec.co.jp/en/det.php?prod_c=569
https://www.diatec.co.jp/en/det.php?prod_c=763
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Then what is the difference between these 2 keyboards?
one is FKBN87M/EB
the other is FKBN87M/EB2
https://www.diatec.co.jp/en/det.php?prod_c=569
https://www.diatec.co.jp/en/det.php?prod_c=763
2nd link is the updated one, see the windows keys.
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is the windows key the only change? i dont get it, why did they release a new model just to change the windows keys? did they even [i[have[/i] to change the windows key? IMO the older window key looks better/
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If it's Majestouch and Majestouch 2, there are significant differences under the hood, including a dual-layer PCB.
I doubt you can get the old majestouch nowadays anyway.
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ok, the 1st keyboard was discontinued. but what is a dual PCB? and what are the list of changes?
so far:
1) windows key
2) dual PCB (on the new one or the old one?)
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The very first search result: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=17365.0
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Filcos are good, but my main problem with them is the fixed cord. If the cord gets messed up a replacement is somewhat costly and hard to obtain compared to a normal USB cable. Plus, all of those sweet Filco kobo covers that you can't buy aftermarket pisses me off. Agree there are better alternatives out there. I love my KUL 87.
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Try NCIX. I picked up on recently for $40 CAD used.
Which store?! :eek:
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Also this thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82863.0).
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it's one of the brands of keyboards I would like to own, ever since I knew of mech keyboards, would really love one.
I don't own one yet, but look forward to the day, really love the multicam version. but I also really love the sideprinted ninja version. might end up with the multicam but with new set of keycaps.
but I also agree, there are too many decent offerings for less now, and that's partly why I still haven't gotten a filco yet, but I DO think that day is coming soon.
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I'd have to say that my Filco seems to have a better build quality over my friends and co-workers keyboards (RapidFires, old Leopolds, Duckys). I don't know if I'd buy another Filco today because the price is so high now though. My next with probably be a Novatouch or a Leopold.
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Filcos are good, but my main problem with them is the fixed cord. If the cord gets messed up a replacement is somewhat costly and hard to obtain compared to a normal USB cable. Plus, all of those sweet Filco kobo covers that you can't buy aftermarket pisses me off. Agree there are better alternatives out there. I love my KUL 87.
Hmmmm I find non-removable cord is actually a plus for me.
For me I've never destroyed any mouse cord or keyboard cord ever. I think people tend to pull it to its tightest or jam it against desk and wall. If you just leave some slack and let it hang loose you'll never break it.
Keep some space between desk and wall.
Also removable cable usually would have broken connection on the jack after a while, or if you plug and unplug too much. More notorious one would be Rosewill RK-8000 keyboards.
Non-removable cable usually have strain relief so it doesn't damage the cord. My Filco cord is still perfectly fine and no damage. :thumb:
However if you want to customize cable for looks then yes removable cable will be easier lol.
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However if you want to customize cable for looks then yes removable cable will be easier lol.
The Filco cable is easy to remove for customizing as it's not soldered, there are even people here offering custom cables for them.
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Filcos are good, but my main problem with them is the fixed cord.
I agree I prefer being able to take out the cable if I need to pack my keyboard or otherwise move it.
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Filcos are good, but my main problem with them is the fixed cord.
I agree I prefer being able to take out the cable if I need to pack my keyboard or otherwise move it.
Yeah, honestly i can't imagine too many people removing a cable 1500X honestly which is the rating for standard (improved ones have upwards of 5000) **source** https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB)
Most of the times these connectors break it's due to negligence of the user and poor care. (Or in the case of the early Ducky Mini's HORRIBLE design protecting the connector).
Among my entire collection as often as i remove cables to swap out for other boards constantly switching which one i use iv'e never even had a budget boards connector break on me.
I'm not saying it's impossible quite far from it, but the majority of cases are typically the users fault or poor design to begin with.