I never got a good stem with out a pressure pot.
Just keep in mind to not use any type of clay with sulfur. Sulfur will inhibit the curing process of the silicone. Did you have better luck with the stem and sprues the second go around?
Introducing Kiwi the Courier - hoping to get a solid cast from him so that I can replace my F2 key! I am working on the second part of his mold and hope to get an initial cast out in 3-4 days!Awww that is so cute. :DShow Image(http://imgur.com/xqvBHDj.jpg)
Awww that is so cute. :D
Just keep in mind to not use any type of clay with sulfur. Sulfur will inhibit the curing process of the silicone. Did you have better luck with the stem and sprues the second go around?
Thanks, man. I'll keep that in mind. I currently use sculpy like many others on here - should be okay. The sprues worked perfectly the second time. Super glue held the sprues in place much better than Elmers All purpose.
I've been meaning to update my progress, but was caught up the entire weekend searching for a new apartment. After 3 long days, I finally got to peek at the second batch of castings. A lot of improvements, but I was not able to capture the stems.Show Image(http://imgur.com/QanyWjo.jpg)
As you can see above, the finer details were pretty much lost on the Owl and Crab. Only Sam the Snail made it through intact with his simple large shapes. This could be due to either a bad mold or air bubbles (or both). I'm going to use a syringe to prefill the molds and try to get all the crevices next time.Show Image(http://imgur.com/QcpsaqQ.jpg)
The picture above pretty much sums up the fate of all the stems. No successful cast so far, but at least the sprues worked. I used hair ties to keep the mold blocks in place and I filled it with resin using a 1ml syringe (see below). I found that trying to pour the resin slowly and consistently into the small sprue holes was difficult since the consistency resembles that of maple syrup. For my next casting batch, I'm going to just to prefill the stems with resin.Show Image(http://imgur.com/5kUywSw.jpg)
While the casts cured pretty hard, it is still a bit soft compared to regular keycaps. I bought proper measuring cups to make sure I'll have the next casting solution ratio correct (I've been eyeballing due to lack of proper equipment). Also, the edges are inconsistent in that some edges were thinner than others. I think a pressure pot would solve this.
At this point, I really want to buy a pressure pot as it would fix a lot of these issues and I probably will order one within the next day or two. Has anyone ever used CA Technology 2.5 Gallon Pressure Pot (https://www.jnequipment.com/shop/paint-spraying/hvlp-fine-finish/51-201c-resin-mold-casting-2-5-gal-pressure-pot/?gclid=CK-4u_yOx80CFY17fgod10AOjQ (https://www.jnequipment.com/shop/paint-spraying/hvlp-fine-finish/51-201c-resin-mold-casting-2-5-gal-pressure-pot/?gclid=CK-4u_yOx80CFY17fgod10AOjQ))? Would love to hear your thoughts on this product.
Now that my casts are starting to look like actual keycaps, I wanted to create something that I would actually use. One of my favorite pc games is Dota - most of my college experience involved me and 4 roommates playing this game for hours every day to the point where our grades and social life suffered. Totally worth it.
Introducing Kiwi the Courier - hoping to get a solid cast from him so that I can replace my F2 key! I am working on the second part of his mold and hope to get an initial cast out in 3-4 days!Show Image(http://imgur.com/xqvBHDj.jpg)
I am working without a pressure pot, and I get ALMOST perfect caps with no bubbles often.
When I did the sprues for the 2-part mold, I did 2 q-tip sticks in opposing corners & a toothpick in a 3rd corner. Idk if I'm right or not, but I thought about gravity and how the cap is facing downward, you want the toothpick & the "pouring" srue on the backside of the cap. That way, the resin flows downward, and bubbles can rise. When resin comes out from all sprues, I know it's filled all the way as best as gravity can. If I could do it again, I would try to add sprues in all corners; but I was limited with the room I could move my hands in the moldbox.
For the stems, put some resin in the stem cavity, and then put the second half of the mold on top. Put rubber bands, and then flip before pouring.
I am working without a pressure pot, and I get ALMOST perfect caps with no bubbles often.
When I did the sprues for the 2-part mold, I did 2 q-tip sticks in opposing corners & a toothpick in a 3rd corner. Idk if I'm right or not, but I thought about gravity and how the cap is facing downward, you want the toothpick & the "pouring" srue on the backside of the cap. That way, the resin flows downward, and bubbles can rise. When resin comes out from all sprues, I know it's filled all the way as best as gravity can. If I could do it again, I would try to add sprues in all corners; but I was limited with the room I could move my hands in the moldbox.
For the stems, put some resin in the stem cavity, and then put the second half of the mold on top. Put rubber bands, and then flip before pouring.
Do you think having multiple air holes help with air bubble? I currently use 2 q-tips and while the resin overflow out of the airhole when I inject it, I still get air bubbles. I think it has a hard time getting into the stem cavity. I'll try with a 3rd sprue next time.
I've also tried adding resin to the stem cavity and then adding resin to the second half of the mold before putting the two together. Still having trouble on my courier mold which also has the lock/key system. I used two lego bricks to create the lock/key system so it might be that I'm taking a bit longer to place the two molds together (ultimately letting the resin ooze out of the pre-filled stem). I might cut off the lock/key system to see if this is the issue since I'm not having trouble getting stems on my other molds. I've only tested it twice though, so it's a small sample size to work with.
My pressure pot finally arrived at my parent's place so I'll pick it up on Friday along with my dyes. Can't wait :D
I think the pressure pot is going to fix most of your issues.. When the oxygen goes into solution, it will force the resin into the cavities surrounding it, should fix all of your issues.. Great work btw!
I think the pressure pot is going to fix most of your issues.. When the oxygen goes into solution, it will force the resin into the cavities surrounding it, should fix all of your issues.. Great work btw!
Awesome, this means I can spend more time working on my sculpting!
I finally got a hold of some firm sculpey. I had to mix it 50/50 with regular sculpey and some clay softener because of how brittle it was. I am digging the firmness though - I find it a bit easier to add in details and I tend to smudge a lot less.
I practiced by creating a gundam-inspired robot. I still have to work on getting better edges (more sharp) and more evenness when working on symmetrical pieces. It's tough! Overall, while I'm not happy with the result of today's work, I am happy about the progress I've made when comparing it to some of my early owl/snail sculpting. Let me know what you guys think.Show Image(http://imgur.com/ygHsakp.jpg)
Yeah, Im not much of a sculptor, but I did order some carving wax to play with, I have some green stuff, but its not the best for the level of detail and straight lines I am looking for. That gundam cap is pretty awesome!
The folks of Resin Addict Forum could provide some guidance with sculpting for resin casting :thumb:
I assume you can only remove with carving wax. I imagine that to have a much steeper learning curve than polymer clay since you can always add clay back on if you remove too much.
The folks of Resin Addict Forum could provide some guidance with sculpting for resin casting :thumb:
The folks of Resin Addict Forum could provide some guidance with sculpting for resin casting :thumb:
you the man, big c :thumb:
I am working without a pressure pot, and I get ALMOST perfect caps with no bubbles often.
When I did the sprues for the 2-part mold, I did 2 q-tip sticks in opposing corners & a toothpick in a 3rd corner. Idk if I'm right or not, but I thought about gravity and how the cap is facing downward, you want the toothpick & the "pouring" srue on the backside of the cap. That way, the resin flows downward, and bubbles can rise. When resin comes out from all sprues, I know it's filled all the way as best as gravity can. If I could do it again, I would try to add sprues in all corners; but I was limited with the room I could move my hands in the moldbox.
For the stems, put some resin in the stem cavity, and then put the second half of the mold on top. Put rubber bands, and then flip before pouring.
Do you think having multiple air holes help with air bubble? I currently use 2 q-tips and while the resin overflow out of the airhole when I inject it, I still get air bubbles. I think it has a hard time getting into the stem cavity. I'll try with a 3rd sprue next time.
I've also tried adding resin to the stem cavity and then adding resin to the second half of the mold before putting the two together. Still having trouble on my courier mold which also has the lock/key system. I used two lego bricks to create the lock/key system so it might be that I'm taking a bit longer to place the two molds together (ultimately letting the resin ooze out of the pre-filled stem). I might cut off the lock/key system to see if this is the issue since I'm not having trouble getting stems on my other molds. I've only tested it twice though, so it's a small sample size to work with.
My pressure pot finally arrived at my parent's place so I'll pick it up on Friday along with my dyes. Can't wait :D
yeah dude, more sprues = more areas though which air can escape. The synth has like 8 I think, all around the base of the cap. 3 works fine for me, I only get 1 lil bubble out of every 4 caps (w/o using a pot). Its the best way to lessen bubbles w/o a pot imo.
what is the pressure pot and air compressor for?
is it to replace a vacuum pump and vacuum tank?
what is the pressure pot and air compressor for?
is it to replace a vacuum pump and vacuum tank?
The pressure pot and air compressor is to make the mold and cast the resin at higher pressure to force air bubbles into solution. I don't have either setup so I opted for a pressure pot. The vacuum pump works slightly differently by removing air bubbles. Same goal, different techniques/setup.
I initially told myself that I would be okay with some air bubbles, but it gets pretty frustrating when you have to wait a day for inconsistent casting results.
I'm off to Home Depot today to return my air compressor since the tank is too small. Might just order one online.
https://www.amazon.com/California-Air-Tools-5510SE-5-5-Gallon/dp/B00NOSCDPA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1468279515&sr=8-4&keywords=california+air+compressor
Here is the one I am looking at, its super quiet and gets great reviews..
Was the one you got taking too long to achieve pressure or something?
Thats a great design, have you tried the fit yet?
Looks good :thumb: May I ask what program you're using for the 3D modeling?
You might need to reinforce the walls, as they look rather thin :-\
Looks good :thumb: May I ask what program you're using for the 3D modeling?
I had a lot of help from a friend on this mode. I was learning with Zbrush since they offer a lot of training videos, but we used Maya since this is what she primarily uses for work.You might need to reinforce the walls, as they look rather thin :-\
Yeah, I'm going to have to rework the walls. KeyForge mentioned the same thing on my Reddit interest check thread. I always found my walls to be flimsy compared to their ABS counterpart but figured I just messed up on my ratio and not have enough hardener or something. Back to the drawing board :'(
Very nice progress.
Love your newest design. :D
That's a pretty sweet robot, but the robutt looks uneven.
That's a pretty sweet robot, but the robutt looks uneven.
Do you mean the walls are uneven in thickness? That last shot was angled.Show Image(http://imgur.com/8BnG9V7.jpg)
I was hoping to get these ship out as is and work on cleaning the robutt for v2. Thoughts?
Are you 3d printing the masters? I'm curious how you go from the 3d model to the master.
Also, how have you been doing the multi-shot eyes? do you just inject the eye color around the eyes, wait for it to cure, then finish casting the key?
These look great! Any word on that sale?
You might also want to check out Zorb's guide - he has a great section on multishotting.
Hey thanks for sharing the progress of your work! Its very helpful and inspirational for newbie crafters like myself. :) Keep up the good work.You might also want to check out Zorb's guide - he has a great section on multishotting.
Where might I find this. I feel i might have stumbled upon it before... but can't seem to find it now. If you had a link or direction to look I would be grateful.
Hey thanks for sharing the progress of your work! Its very helpful and inspirational for newbie crafters like myself. :) Keep up the good work.You might also want to check out Zorb's guide - he has a great section on multishotting.
Where might I find this. I feel i might have stumbled upon it before... but can't seem to find it now. If you had a link or direction to look I would be grateful.