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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: zeltner on Tue, 30 August 2016, 07:00:07
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I am thinking about buying my first model m and looking for some advice. What should I look for and what should I look to avoid with these boards. And what should I expect to pay?
I started looking at eBay prices but they seem all over the place (even for same part numbers and similar condition).
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I sell mine for around £40, they go pretty quickly at that price. Look up the part number on wikipedia (usually starts with 139, it's shown in large numbers on the label on the back) because some models are rubber dome rather than buckling spring.
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Look up the part number on wikipedia
because some models are rubber dome rather than buckling spring.
Rubber dome models start with the number "7"
Some of us prefer the older ones <1988 because the internal plates are heavier, but they are all pretty solid. Somewhere in the mid-1990s they went to attached cables, but if you have an extra $40 you should look into Orihalcon's SDL-to-USB cables which are excellent and clean. And don't reject the idea of a new Unicomp even though a lot of people here disparage them.
You have to go down to the bottom and expand "part number"
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Model_M_keyboard (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Model_M_keyboard)
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Look up the part number on wikipedia
because some models are rubber dome rather than buckling spring.
Rubber dome models start with the number "7"
Thanks guys. I actually have been looking up model numbers, but knowing rubber domes start with "7" good to know I can just pass over those.
I sell mine for around £40, they go pretty quickly at that price.
So that is around $52 dollars. Seems like that is right around the low end prices on ebay. I am having trouble wrapping my head around some of the higher priced boards though... I see some for close to 250 that have the same part number as another board listed for much cheaper... Is that just the seller hoping to rip someone off? Or do the higher priced boards actually have something that makes them worth that price tag.
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Or do the higher priced boards actually have something that makes them worth that price tag.
The smaller "SSK" keyboards are more rare and desirable and cost 2x-3x what the full-sized boards do, as do the "industrial" models with an olive-gray-green case.
Otherwise, early-1990s models probably carry a $10 premium over late-1990s models, late-1980s are probably $10 more than 1990s, and square metal badge models perhaps $10 more than that. If the low end of the range is $50 + shipping in the US, the high end is probably just over $100.
With new Unicomps going for ~$80 + shipping, used IBMs will generally cluster around that. And remember, if you need replacement keys from Unicomp because something is missing, that is likely to be at least another $10 order.
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Try the "What is it worth" thread in Classifieds.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=31779.0
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Hmm, I should see if mine actually works. I have no reason to believe that it doesn't, but if it works I'd sell it for super cheap, as I don't support marking up "vintage" keyboards that were produced by the millions.
Shipping isn't too cheap, though :P
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The smaller "SSK" keyboards are more rare and desirable and cost 2x-3x what the full-sized boards do, as do the "industrial" models with an olive-gray-green case.
Otherwise, early-1990s models probably carry a $10 premium over late-1990s models, late-1980s are probably $10 more than 1990s, and square metal badge models perhaps $10 more than that. If the low end of the range is $50 + shipping in the US, the high end is probably just over $100.
With new Unicomps going for ~$80 + shipping, used IBMs will generally cluster around that. And remember, if you need replacement keys from Unicomp because something is missing, that is likely to be at least another $10 order.
While I'm no means a expert on the model M, I started out by posting a wanted ad on Craigslist which netted me two decent Model Ms for free. I bought another at a Hamfest (Amateur radio fleamarket) for $15 and two more on ebay for around $30 each. I've bolt modded all but one which isn't that hard if you take your time. But my post here is really about UniComp.
I've only bought 1 original keycap from them and I wish I didn't, the pad printing is heavier then the OEM and it stands out like a sore thumb.
The springs they sell are quietier so keep that in mind if re-building a keyboard.
I'm happy with the RGB keycaps they sell, again the printing is heavier but its not a noticeable since the key is R,G,B.
I purchased two new barrel frames from them as my OEM we're beyond repair. They worked well but they're not an exact match. There's an extra post so you need to remember not to drill it and bolt it other wise you will damage your keyboard.
Personally I prefer full-size keyboards because I use the number-pad but I see the appeal of the smaller form factor but not so much the price.
Phosphorglow makes a nice USB controller and Orhalicon stocks converter cables that work well also.
Mine range from late 80's to late 90's they all work equally well and unless you're looking for a square badge to add to a collection I'd go with a late 90's as a daily 'driver' if only for the fact that they barrel frame has a spill channel in it.
The one thing I'll leave you with is don't believe the Auctions saying they have a 1984 Model M. That's a copyright date not a manufacture date and I've seen some people try and grab premium money for a late 90's keyboard trying to say it's a rare first generation. Always get a picture of the build label on the back.
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Ill just chime in and say that while all the boards are usually the same price, make sure you look out for 'tested'
these boards can break at the rivets, and start to have a poor connection. If they arent tested, you wont know what is wrong with the board.
Kind of obvious, but worth mentioning.
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I got my first two for something like $32 combined. I was able to pickup them too, as the seller was local.
Neither had a cable and both were missing keycaps - not enough keycaps between them to make a full set.
With a little help from the community, an SDL cable from orihalcon, and a refurbished PS/2 cable from an old rubber dome keyboard + a little bit of soldering, I had two complete, working, full size Model M keyboards.
I've since managed to acquire two SSKs at what I consider reasonable prices including shipping to Australia, which usually kills most heavier keyboards.
So keep your eyes peeled, if you want a rarer one just wait a little longer, and one should turn up eventually.
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I am thinking about buying my first model m and looking for some advice. What should I look for and what should I look to avoid with these boards. And what should I expect to pay?
I started looking at eBay prices but they seem all over the place (even for same part numbers and similar condition).
When I bought my first Model M many years ago I just wanted it to work - I didn't want to open it up and fool around with it, and I didn't want to clean someone else's gross accumulations. So I bought it from this guy, who expertly cleans and restores Model Ms and sells them:
http://clickykeyboards.com/
The boards are very expensive, but he is a great choice if you don't like to spend your weekends breaking down, cleaning, troubleshooting, repairing, etc., your keyboard. Just plug in your shiny clean Model M and feel the buckling spring goodness.
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I have been toying with the idea of making a QKT video on which Model M to buy, don't know if people would find that useful.
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If you find a really good deal also make sure it's not using a terminal connector like RJ-45
However if it's a good deal it may be worth it to buy one and then buy a Soarers converter, as there is one to convert RJ-45 to USB
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IIRC Unicomp is selling NOS Model M industrial cases, just in case someone wants to make theirs a bit unique.
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IIRC Unicomp is selling NOS Model M industrial cases, just in case someone wants to make theirs a bit unique.
They are indeed, and totally worth it!
http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/1394942 (http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/1394942)
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IIRC Unicomp is selling NOS Model M industrial cases, just in case someone wants to make theirs a bit unique.
They are indeed, and totally worth it!
http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/1394942 (http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/1394942)
I would totally splurge if they sold SSK cases.
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IIRC Unicomp is selling NOS Model M industrial cases, just in case someone wants to make theirs a bit unique.
They are indeed, and totally worth it!
http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/1394942 (http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/1394942)
Thanks very much for that link, just bought one to resurrect an old Model-M from death :thumb: .
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IIRC Unicomp is selling NOS Model M industrial cases, just in case someone wants to make theirs a bit unique.
They are indeed, and totally worth it!
http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/1394942 (http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/1394942)
Thanks very much for that link, just bought one to resurrect an old Model-M from death :thumb: .
If you don't mind my asking, what was the postage cost to Oz?
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I sold a good condition 1989 Model M (1391401, most common) with RGB modifiers and an orange tilde key for $55.99 + ship in about one-two days. For eBay that's probably a pretty good deal, in most cases I wouldn't pay above $50 shipped. Some people just don't know better though...if you find a bolt-modded Model M those go for about $100. I'll also insert fohat's message below because it's good buying advice.
Or do the higher priced boards actually have something that makes them worth that price tag.
The smaller "SSK" keyboards are more rare and desirable and cost 2x-3x what the full-sized boards do, as do the "industrial" models with an olive-gray-green case.
Otherwise, early-1990s models probably carry a $10 premium over late-1990s models, late-1980s are probably $10 more than 1990s, and square metal badge models perhaps $10 more than that. If the low end of the range is $50 + shipping in the US, the high end is probably just over $100.
With new Unicomps going for ~$80 + shipping, used IBMs will generally cluster around that. And remember, if you need replacement keys from Unicomp because something is missing, that is likely to be at least another $10 order.
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Thanks for all the advice guys! This thread has been informative. I am still waiting a awhile to pull the trigger on this board, but I'll let you guys know what I get once I go for it.