Hahaha..
Ok Simia_4..
DO NOT attempt to do this..
If you make more than $8 an hour..
You may as well buy another keyboard in the switch of your choice, instead of doing this thing manually..
Switch swapping is absolutely NOT WORTH the TIME to DO, it's plain tedious.. especially with LED...
If you have a desoldering station with the vacuum setup, by all means do it, but since you're asking questions, Suppose you prolly don't have such a system.. hahaha..
Hahaha..
Ok Simia_4..
DO NOT attempt to do this..
If you make more than $8 an hour..
You may as well buy another keyboard in the switch of your choice, instead of doing this thing manually..
Switch swapping is absolutely NOT WORTH the TIME to DO, it's plain tedious.. especially with LED...
If you have a desoldering station with the vacuum setup, by all means do it, but since you're asking questions, Suppose you prolly don't have such a system.. hahaha..
The only caveat is if the keyboard you want doesn't come in the switch you want.
Don't think you can get a Ducky Shine with Gaterons.
Hahaha..
Ok Simia_4..
DO NOT attempt to do this..
If you make more than $8 an hour..
You may as well buy another keyboard in the switch of your choice, instead of doing this thing manually..
Switch swapping is absolutely NOT WORTH the TIME to DO, it's plain tedious.. especially with LED...
If you have a desoldering station with the vacuum setup, by all means do it, but since you're asking questions, Suppose you prolly don't have such a system.. hahaha..
The only caveat is if the keyboard you want doesn't come in the switch you want.
Don't think you can get a Ducky Shine with Gaterons.
In this topic, I know this may sound very noobish since i usually always but the keyboard assembled. If one buys switches , and buys the other parts, does one still have to solder the switches on the board? Like even if they are kits etc , one ends up soldering them? I need to know since I am REALLY wanting to get some Gaterons for future projects as I can simply buy MX Cherry but not the case for these.Yup, they must be soldered, even if you hand-wire. The only exception is the small number of hot-swappable boards out there like the Glorious Module (which I cannot speak to about quality, I've personally been skeptical of that imo obnoxious brand name)
Is there something comparable for a bit cheaper?
Is there something comparable for a bit cheaper?
Yes, The Glorious Gaming Mechanical Keyboard.Show Image(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81dUICCjQDL._SL1500_.jpg)
Is there something comparable for a bit cheaper?
Yes, The Glorious Gaming Mechanical Keyboard.Show Image(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81dUICCjQDL._SL1500_.jpg)
Sorry, i guess i should have said similar to the Ducky One.
Is there something comparable for a bit cheaper?
Yes, The Glorious Gaming Mechanical Keyboard.Show Image(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81dUICCjQDL._SL1500_.jpg)
Sorry, i guess i should have said similar to the Ducky One.
To me, this looks pretty similar, unless you're talking about the TKL:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/T0dXzp9.jpg)
In this topic, I know this may sound very noobish since i usually always but the keyboard assembled. If one buys switches , and buys the other parts, does one still have to solder the switches on the board? Like even if they are kits etc , one ends up soldering them? I need to know since I am REALLY wanting to get some Gaterons for future projects as I can simply buy MX Cherry but not the case for these.Yup, they must be soldered, even if you hand-wire. The only exception is the small number of hot-swappable boards out there like the Glorious Module (which I cannot speak to about quality, I've personally been skeptical of that imo obnoxious brand name)
The labor of desoldering the board is not worth it, and the cost of the switches alone would be half the purchase price of a new board. You would have something like 425 contact points to solder and resolder and the LED's are a PITA.
They do make kits to build your own board, but I don't know if they come preassembled where you can simply drop in the switches. You may have to solder diodes and install a controller and firmware etc. If you have some technical know-how you may enjoy this project. I'm sure somebody else can give you more info on this.
The labor of desoldering the board is not worth it, and the cost of the switches alone would be half the purchase price of a new board. You would have something like 425 contact points to solder and resolder and the LED's are a PITA.
They do make kits to build your own board, but I don't know if they come preassembled where you can simply drop in the switches. You may have to solder diodes and install a controller and firmware etc. If you have some technical know-how you may enjoy this project. I'm sure somebody else can give you more info on this.
Not for the MX people.
But the ALPS collectors love to desolder - well, that's their only way, should I say they have to. I would prefer hot-swappable PCB if I have to do this to try out things often. And I plan to install SIP sockets for my LEDs so that I don't have to desolder them in case I want to mod the switches.
The labor of desoldering the board is not worth it, and the cost of the switches alone would be half the purchase price of a new board. You would have something like 425 contact points to solder and resolder and the LED's are a PITA.
They do make kits to build your own board, but I don't know if they come preassembled where you can simply drop in the switches. You may have to solder diodes and install a controller and firmware etc. If you have some technical know-how you may enjoy this project. I'm sure somebody else can give you more info on this.
Not for the MX people.
But the ALPS collectors love to desolder - well, that's their only way, should I say they have to. I would prefer hot-swappable PCB if I have to do this to try out things often. And I plan to install SIP sockets for my LEDs so that I don't have to desolder them in case I want to mod the switches.
SIP sockets only help if your plate allows switch top removal and you still have to remove and replace all the LEDs in the sockets.
There was talk at one time about having switch tops made with a cutout so the LED could stay in and top still be removed when applicable.
And anyone who plans to mod more than one or two boards especially backlit boards a powered solder sucker is definitely worth it.
They can be reused I was just pointing out they still have to be removed unless the switch top plastic is removed around the LED area.The labor of desoldering the board is not worth it, and the cost of the switches alone would be half the purchase price of a new board. You would have something like 425 contact points to solder and resolder and the LED's are a PITA.
They do make kits to build your own board, but I don't know if they come preassembled where you can simply drop in the switches. You may have to solder diodes and install a controller and firmware etc. If you have some technical know-how you may enjoy this project. I'm sure somebody else can give you more info on this.
Not for the MX people.
But the ALPS collectors love to desolder - well, that's their only way, should I say they have to. I would prefer hot-swappable PCB if I have to do this to try out things often. And I plan to install SIP sockets for my LEDs so that I don't have to desolder them in case I want to mod the switches.
SIP sockets only help if your plate allows switch top removal and you still have to remove and replace all the LEDs in the sockets.
There was talk at one time about having switch tops made with a cutout so the LED could stay in and top still be removed when applicable.
And anyone who plans to mod more than one or two boards especially backlit boards a powered solder sucker is definitely worth it.
It's good to know more. Thanks for the tip.
So even if I use SIP sockets on a plate that allows switch top removal, all the LEDs popped out for switch modding cannot be reused again?
They can be reused I was just pointing out they still have to be removed unless the switch top plastic is removed around the LED area.The labor of desoldering the board is not worth it, and the cost of the switches alone would be half the purchase price of a new board. You would have something like 425 contact points to solder and resolder and the LED's are a PITA.
They do make kits to build your own board, but I don't know if they come preassembled where you can simply drop in the switches. You may have to solder diodes and install a controller and firmware etc. If you have some technical know-how you may enjoy this project. I'm sure somebody else can give you more info on this.
Not for the MX people.
But the ALPS collectors love to desolder - well, that's their only way, should I say they have to. I would prefer hot-swappable PCB if I have to do this to try out things often. And I plan to install SIP sockets for my LEDs so that I don't have to desolder them in case I want to mod the switches.
SIP sockets only help if your plate allows switch top removal and you still have to remove and replace all the LEDs in the sockets.
There was talk at one time about having switch tops made with a cutout so the LED could stay in and top still be removed when applicable.
And anyone who plans to mod more than one or two boards especially backlit boards a powered solder sucker is definitely worth it.
It's good to know more. Thanks for the tip.
So even if I use SIP sockets on a plate that allows switch top removal, all the LEDs popped out for switch modding cannot be reused again?
Also don't forget you'll have to keep the polarity straight somehow when putting them back in. So maybe have a system setup to keep track of that.