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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: Hypersphere on Wed, 09 November 2016, 15:27:57
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Of all the keyboards you have owned (contemporary and/or vintage; new or used), which one has proved to be the most reliable and which one has proved to be the least reliable?
The most reliable is the one you have always trusted to get the job done. The least reliable is the one that developed problems -- dead keys, chattering keys, a loose USB connector -- or the board that failed altogether.
For me,
Most reliable: HHKB Pro 2. It just works.
Least reliable: Various vintage Alps-switch keyboards (unresponsive keys; chattering keys).
I really like typing on a good Alps board, such as a Northgate Omnikey 101 ANSI white Alps, but I have had more problems with Alps switches than any other kind. Fortunately, I have usually been able to restore the errant switches to useful life, but past malfunctions tend to raise doubts about future reliability.
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Most reliable: My first mechanical keyboard ever, which I still have and use: QFR
Least reliable: Basically all vintage ALPS keyboards I got, they all had problems.
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lol I've never had a keyboard break on me, so far they're ALL RELIABLE.
I still don't know how people break keyboards. Though maybe I'm a bit OCD so I'm a bit careful with my keyboards.
But if you really want me to pick something, I'd say I think non-detachable cable is more reliable than detachable cable, it's one less thing to wear out.
:P
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Most reliable: looking at it, it's probably my BTC 5339R-0 with foam and foil switches. It's one of the few boards I own that's never given me any issues of ANY kind.
Least reliable: Focuis FK-9000. That didn't even work at all brand new out of the box xD .
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Although I have used "personally refurbished" IBM Model Fs for several years now, with absolutely no issues whatsoever, a strong argument could be made for rubber dome keyboards that can be cleaned in the dishwasher or bathtub.
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Although I have used "personally refurbished" IBM Model Fs for several years now, with absolutely no issues whatsoever, a strong argument could be made for rubber dome keyboards that can be cleaned in the dishwasher or bathtub.
Yeah, that's true, although on the other hand those are so bad that you could argue that they never work even when they're functional xD .
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Most reliable: Model M (except for the SSK that got trashed in shipment)
Least reliable: Selectric (these require regular maintenance, even if used properly)
Model F tend to have one or two springs that won't sit properly, even though they are ostensibly the same technology as Model M, which seems less picky about the way the springs are seated. Beamsprings tend to be sensitive to bits of contamination dropping out of the contamination shield.
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http://www.directorproduse.ro/images/35/34//4936006/4936006.jpg
This thing. Bought it for 5 bux, never failed me
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http://www.directorproduse.ro/images/35/34//4936006/4936006.jpg
This thing. Bought it for 5 bux, never failed me
fockstha
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In the most reliable column, I should add IBM buckling spring keyboards, both Model F and Model M. Although I have some Model M boards that have numerous broken plastic rivets, the keyboards keep on working.
In the least reliable group, I had a KC60 that had to be repaired twice for a loose mini-USB connector.
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So far my Hall Effect keyboards are pretty reliable. :-P
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lol I've never had a keyboard break on me, so far they're ALL RELIABLE.
I still don't know how people break keyboards. Though maybe I'm a bit OCD so I'm a bit careful with my keyboards.
But if you really want me to pick something, I'd say I think non-detachable cable is more reliable than detachable cable, it's one less thing to wear out.
:P
It's not always about being careful. I had a Filco go bad on me after about 6 months without ever being abused. A small amount of switches started not responding reliably. The w key was most noticeable since I do a fair amount of gaming. Otherwise, my mechanical keyboard experience has been mostly very good.
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In the most reliable column, I should add IBM buckling spring keyboards, both Model F and Model M. Although I have some Model M boards that have numerous broken plastic rivets, the keyboards keep on working.
In the least reliable group, I had a KC60 that had to be repaired twice for a loose mini-USB connector.
See, I'd say the M is well-built, but quite susceptible to water, and of course the rivets break. The F is extremely vulnerable to electrical changes. Both can give issues easily.
That said, the Model F's sensing system is rugged enough that even if it doesn't work properly it can generally still be fixed. A truly DEAD one must be quite rare.
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lol I've never had a keyboard break on me, so far they're ALL RELIABLE.
I still don't know how people break keyboards. Though maybe I'm a bit OCD so I'm a bit careful with my keyboards.
But if you really want me to pick something, I'd say I think non-detachable cable is more reliable than detachable cable, it's one less thing to wear out.
:P
My experience has been totally the opposite of that-- things always seem to be going wrong with my keyboards, even ones from good brands, and even when nothing in particular happens to them. Chatter, keys or clusters of keys dropping out, even spontaneous loss of all functionality (more than once!).
No problems so far with my Hall Effect board, at least, so I guess that wins "most reliable" for me.
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Regarding Alps and Alps clones, although I have had some problems with vintage Alps keyboards, and I have seen reports of people having problems with Matias-switch keyboards, I have 4 KBP V60 boards with Matias switches (3 Matias Click and 1 Matias Quiet) and I have had no problems with them. I had a KBP V60 with Matias Quiet Linear switches that I sold because I am not particularly fond of linear switches. My KBP V60 boards were purchased in 2014 and 2015 and they are still going strong.
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removed.
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Regarding Alps and Alps clones, although I have had some problems with vintage Alps keyboards, and I have seen reports of people having problems with Matias-switch keyboards, I have 4 KBP V60 boards with Matias switches (3 Matias Click and 1 Matias Quiet) and I have had no problems with them. I had a KBP V60 with Matias Quiet Linear switches that I sold because I am not particularly fond of linear switches. My KBP V60 boards were purchased in 2014 and 2015 and they are still going strong.
Use one of them for couple years as a daily driver (at least 8 hours a day typing) then we can talk about reliability. Sitting in a box for 2 years doesn't count. My previous HHKB felt pretty much spent after just over 2 years. But my current one is not used much (I work in Visual Studio a lot nowadays and need more keys) so it feels perfect after a year of sporadic use. Honestly the most reliable keyboards I have are Filcos and QFR. The amount of beating they took is unbelievable and yet they work, feel, and sound just like new. Nothing very fancy, but very dependable.
I also have to say good things about 55g Realforce which never failed me and I used it to the point of the PBT keycaps becoming as shiny as brand new SA keys. It became very stiff however and I can no longer use it...
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@czarek: Good point. Although the Matias-switch V60 keyboards don't just sit in a box, they take their turns in my keyboard rotations at home and work, their turns come around only about every two weeks or so. I would say that the ones that get the most use are my HHKB boards.
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I also have to say good things about 55g Realforce which never failed me and I used it to the point of the PBT keycaps becoming as shiny as brand new SA keys. It became very stiff however and I can no longer use it...
How long have you had that 55g Realforce?
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That makes sense Hypersphere. Still I guess your HHKB gets the most use anyways. But I see your pain that you are getting bored with it and like to change from time to time.
UnFocused, I used it just over 2 years. It became stiffer but didn't lose any of its tactility.
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Most reliable: looking at it, it's probably my BTC 5339R-0 with foam and foil switches. It's one of the few boards I own that's never given me any issues of ANY kind.
Least reliable: Focuis FK-9000. That didn't even work at all brand new out of the box xD .
Seeing a foam and foil in the "most reliable" category is quite surprising to me, although I suppose if the foam has not degraded, the underlying capacitance sensing ought to work reliably.
In the least-reliable camp, did your FK-9000 have Alps switches or clones?
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This thread is cross-posted over on DT, and between the two, I am starting to see some trends. It seems that in the least reliable category there are many mentions of vintage Alps or Alps clones -- they got dubbed the "Alpha Romeo" of keyboard switches, which Chyros changed to "Alpsa Romeo". Despite the reliability issues, Alps switches seem to be enjoying a resurgence of popularity. This is apt, because sports cars are such fun to drive when they are up and running, and we keep coming back for more even if the car spends a lot of time in the shop.
The most reliable category seems more mixed, but Topre-switch boards such as RF and HHKB get mentioned frequently. In addition, some have cited Filco and CM products, and I would agree with this assessment. One of my first contemporary mechanicals was a Filco MJ2 Ninja, and I still have a CM QFS. The Filco impressed me as being well built. Likewise, the QFS seems quite solid, especially for the price. And although I could use some of my Model M boards as oversized maracas due to the broken rivets rattling around inside, they still work. Likewise, my very first Soarer Converter project was an IBM XT built in 1984 that worked when I first got it from eBay and continues to work several years later.
This is a non-rigorous set of impressions. After more opinions have been accumulated, I might do a more accurate tally.
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Most reliable: looking at it, it's probably my BTC 5339R-0 with foam and foil switches. It's one of the few boards I own that's never given me any issues of ANY kind.
Least reliable: Focuis FK-9000. That didn't even work at all brand new out of the box xD .
Seeing a foam and foil in the "most reliable" category is quite surprising to me, although I suppose if the foam has not degraded, the underlying capacitance sensing ought to work reliably.
I know they get a lot of stick but in all fairness I've found a fair few foam and foil boards by now and NONE of them had foam that looked particularly rotten. Yellow, or even brown, yes, but not disintegrated or anything. The Key Tronic ones all still sucked donkey balls, though. The BTC one is much better, apart from the foamy feel it's actually an excellent keyboard with tons of advantages. And yeah, as long as the foam holds, these boards are actually incredibly reliable, way more dependable than a Model F in my opinion. No issues with tightening of bolts, clamps or whatever, no strict tolerances for a spring to buckle correctly, and it doesn't take two grown men and a bunch of clamps to put one back together again. It's just a back panel, front case and PCB held together by a few screws, you can open and close it in seconds. And the Model F uses foam as well, mind you.
In the least-reliable camp, did your FK-9000 have Alps switches or clones?
Clones. I think there are almost no FK-9000s that work when people first got them, if any. To be fair, it has absolutely nothing to do with the switches at all, it's just the shoddy electronics Focus employed. None of them worked. The FK-5001 appears to not suffer from this as much because the electronics routing problem doesn't happen there, and it used a different battery.
This thread is cross-posted over on DT, and between the two, I am starting to see some trends. It seems that in the least reliable category there are many mentions of vintage Alps or Alps clones -- they got dubbed the "Alpha Romeo" of keyboard switches, which Chyros changed to "Alpsa Romeo". Despite the reliability issues, Alps switches seem to be enjoying a resurgence of popularity. This is apt, because sports cars are such fun to drive when they are up and running, and we keep coming back for more even if the car spends a lot of time in the shop.
As it happens, I'm also an Alfa fan ^^ . And yeah, Alps designed a switch to be as good as a switch can be.... briefly xD (shamelessly nicked from Clarkson).
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Honestly the only trouble I've had with a keyboard is when my Filco Camo had the cable fray, and that was mostly my fault.
The only issues I've really had have come from custom boards. My GH60 has some chattering issues, and the spacebar switch is offset so I can't flip it. Need to open it up and swap out the spacebar switch.
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UnFocused, I used it just over 2 years. It became stiffer but didn't lose any of its tactility.
I have a 55g and I don't think I'll mind if it does become stiffer over time as I tend to prefer heavier switches.