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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: needz on Mon, 12 December 2016, 10:29:06
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Help me pass the time while I wait on parts! Any build tips to keep in mind (other than clipping the stabs)?
I've been using a Pok3r w/ clears for a couple months, but I wanted to build my own board so that I can easily swap springs and just generally have more control over..., well, everything. That, and these clears feel 'scratchy'. I don't want to desolder a whole board just to apply lube. Without further ado, here's the list:
- B.face x2 PCB (http://winkeyless.kr/product/b-face-x2-pcb/)
- Carbon Fiber Plate (http://1upkeyboards.com/product_info.php?cPath=42_46&products_id=307)
- Acrylic Case (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wholesales-Acrylic-CNC-Case-Milk-Case-Shell-for-60-GH60-Mini-Mechanical-Keyboard-Compatible-Poker2-Pok3r/32754850174.html)
- R4 65g Zealios (from 1upkeyboards)
- Authentic Cherry Stabs (https://www.originativeco.com/products/cherry-pcb-mounted-stabilizer?variant=10172620357)
- 72g / 78g Springs (https://www.originativeco.com/products/springs?variant=1311415468)
- Sip Sockets (https://www.keyclack.com/product/sip-sockets/)
- Switch Lube (http://techkeys.us/collections/accessories/products/krytox-switch-lurbricant)
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don't use too much solder. i always do and it ****s up your board big time.
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don't use too much solder. i always do and it ****s up your board big time.
I got some 0.6mm to hopefully help with that. Are you talking about crossing tracks and stuff like that?
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i mean it can lead to actual problems, but it more just looks ugly
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Besides clipping the stabs, which you already listed, i would suggest to test out every keycap set you plan to put on, on other switches. It happened to myself and other people, that certain keycaps are tight enough to let you rip out stabs or stems when taking them off... If i remember correctly i had this happen to me with TaiHao caps.
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That appears to be a low profile, or "lipless", case. If you're planning a PCB mount board you'll probably want a case with a lip. You'll have a visible "hole" under the caps with a lipless case. Just take a look at your Pok3r and imagine it without a plate.
There are plenty of cases with lips out there, both plastic & aluminum. Just some examples:
https://www.amazon.com/iQunix-Lambo-Mechanical-Keyboard-Silver/dp/B016ICZC7Y/ref=sr_1_1
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/60-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Plastic-Protective-Case-Mini-Keyboard-Base-Seat-Frame-For-GH60-For-POKER2/32771676179.html
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That appears to be a low profile, or "lipless", case. If you're planning a PCB mount board you'll probably want a case with a lip. You'll have a visible "hole" under the caps with a lipless case. Just take a look at your Pok3r and imagine it without a plate.
There are plenty of cases with lips out there, both plastic & aluminum. Just some examples:
https://www.amazon.com/iQunix-Lambo-Mechanical-Keyboard-Silver/dp/B016ICZC7Y/ref=sr_1_1
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/60-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Plastic-Protective-Case-Mini-Keyboard-Base-Seat-Frame-For-GH60-For-POKER2/32771676179.html
I forgot to link to my Carbon Fiber Plate (http://1upkeyboards.com/product_info.php?cPath=42_46&products_id=307). My bad!