You can turn off both winkeys on the YOTG, Shine 5 and Shine 6. It's extremely easy: Switch to profile 2-6, and rebind winkey to numlock, scroll lock or left CTRL or right CTRL. Done.I was thinkin/talkin about of the Dip switch like the Shine 2/3/4 boards.
You just can't use ducky macro in profile #1.
BTW I have a YOTG (browns) also, a Shine 5 nature white, and this new baby here:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jiBZEhx.jpg)
The MX blues feel great on this.
@OP: I love MX Greens. My Ducky Fire 69 edition has MX Greens on the alphas and numbers, and I definitely enjoyed using it. I heard of a lot of people buying milk/whites and dealing with very inconsistent switch batches or some that don't click; there were several forum posts about that. Blues are fun, but it's too hard not to bottom out on blues, as once you reach the tactile bump, you're almost always going to bottom out because the force to bottom out is *less* than the force to overcome the tactile click bump.
BTW something you should know:
The best switches for typing well accurately are blues, greens and whites. Why not browns and clears? Well, the electrical activation point of browns and clears are *BELOW* the tactile bump, which means it's possible to actually pass the bump and not activate the switch if you are too light handed. The release point is at the same spot (below the bump).
Blues, greens and milks however have the click trigger bump activate at the EXACT SAME TIME as the electrical activation point, as the mechanism causes the switch to drop automatically below the electrical activation point while engaging the click, so from neutral, it's impossible to activate the bump and not the switch. However the electrical release point is BELOW the tactile bump click release point, going up, as the click release point moves back upward. So you can release and re-engage the switch without reaching the release click. So the 'hystersis' that people talk about is simply the click push and release being at different points; the switch electrical release and engage is still the same.
I have a question.
Are greens simply blues with a heavier spring? Or is there some other small difference (Like greens to milk/white)? Everyone says the greens are identical to blues with a heavier spring, but on my Ducky Shine 69, the greens click significantly louder than the blues. So I find it hard to believe that greens are just blues with a different colored shaft and 80g spring...
I have a question.
Are greens simply blues with a heavier spring? Or is there some other small difference (Like greens to milk/white)? Everyone says the greens are identical to blues with a heavier spring, but on my Ducky Shine 69, the greens click significantly louder than the blues. So I find it hard to believe that greens are just blues with a different colored shaft and 80g spring...
Exact engineering details are not available. MX Greens and Blues seem the same except for springs, but they do not act the same. You can test this by making "Ghetto Greens", which are Blues with Black springs installed. They are similar to, but not identical to, true MX Greens. To be fair, I have not tried putting a spring from an actual MX Green switch into an MX Blue, which would ensure a 1:1 match in the springs. I think they would still not be identical.
For that matter, what makes the MX Whites "quiet"?
You can dive into this rabbit hole HERE (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=17221.0) and HERE (https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/switch_guides).
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
BTW something you should know:
The best switches for typing well accurately are blues, greens and whites. Why not browns and clears? ... snip
Blues, greens and milks however have the click trigger bump activate at the EXACT SAME TIME as the electrical activation point, as the mechanism causes the switch to drop automatically below the electrical activation point while engaging the click, so from neutral, it's impossible to activate the bump and not the switch...
@OP: I love MX Greens. My Ducky Fire 69 edition has MX Greens on the alphas and numbers, and I definitely enjoyed using it.
I heard of a lot of people buying milk/whites and dealing with very inconsistent switch batches or some that don't click; there were several forum posts about that.
Blues are fun, but it's too hard not to bottom out on blues, as once you reach the tactile bump, you're almost always going to bottom out because the force to bottom out is *less* than the force to overcome the tactile click bump.
I have Whites and Greens together on my GH-122 to support the heavy SA keycaps. Great switches if you like Browns with more weight...
I am using the Whites to support the extra weight of the SA 'caps, with some Greens for audible and tactile difference on arrow and Enter keys.
For me, an all-Green keyboard is just too loud -- and I use a Model F at work!
Nice switches, great keyboard find, sir. Give some SA keycaps a try on that Ducky White sometime.
I have a question... Are greens simply blues with a heavier spring? Or is there some other small difference (Like greens to milk/white)? ...
Exact engineering details are not available. MX Greens and Blues seem the same except for springs, but they do not act the same... You can test this by making "Ghetto Greens", which are Blues with Black springs installed. They are similar to, but not identical to, true MX Greens. To be fair, I have not tried putting a spring from an actual MX Green switch into an MX Blue, which would ensure a 1:1 match in the springs. I think they would still not be identical... For that matter, what makes the MX Whites "quiet"? ...
Anybody try making Jailhouse Milk?