https://www.originativeco.com/products/tric-80?variant=31754345424
Just trying to figure out what this is or where it originated from. Is this an originative project, or are they helping out another group buy? I kinda need one... It's kinda awesome.
You can lock/delete this thread if a GB page shows up on here.
sooo, I'm planning to put my TriC 80 together this weekend and noticed that the WKL bottom row doesn't have the standard 1U blockers, but rather .75U blockers...
this gives me some rather "exotic" bottom row options.
Am I right assuming I can do something like a 1.25, 1.5, 7, 1, 1.5, 1.25 or a [...] 7, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25 layout?
pic for reference:Show Image(https://static1.squarespace.com/static/56aade6ed210b85419e21e0c/t/59b1dac82994caee6bc2ec55/1504828108562/21556835_10214611069051643_76414517_o.jpg?format=750w)
(I know I could just lay out some loose caps to find out, but I'm not home until the weekend and I can't stop wondering) ;)
sooo, I'm planning to put my TriC 80 together this weekend and noticed that the WKL bottom row doesn't have the standard 1U blockers, but rather .75U blockers...
this gives me some rather "exotic" bottom row options.
Am I right assuming I can do something like a 1.25, 1.5, 7, 1, 1.5, 1.25 or a [...] 7, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25 layout?
pic for reference:Show Image(https://static1.squarespace.com/static/56aade6ed210b85419e21e0c/t/59b1dac82994caee6bc2ec55/1504828108562/21556835_10214611069051643_76414517_o.jpg?format=750w)
(I know I could just lay out some loose caps to find out, but I'm not home until the weekend and I can't stop wondering) ;)
They have to add up to 15, so check the math. I wouldn't count on anything working out perfectly until you get some keycaps on switches and place them in the holes. I don't see any documentation online showing what layouts the bottom row supports. Just laying the caps won't show you that.
sooo, I'm planning to put my TriC 80 together this weekend and noticed that the WKL bottom row doesn't have the standard 1U blockers, but rather .75U blockers...
this gives me some rather "exotic" bottom row options.
Am I right assuming I can do something like a 1.25, 1.5, 7, 1, 1.5, 1.25 or a [...] 7, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25 layout?
pic for reference:Show Image(https://static1.squarespace.com/static/56aade6ed210b85419e21e0c/t/59b1dac82994caee6bc2ec55/1504828108562/21556835_10214611069051643_76414517_o.jpg?format=750w)
(I know I could just lay out some loose caps to find out, but I'm not home until the weekend and I can't stop wondering) ;)
They have to add up to 15, so check the math. I wouldn't count on anything working out perfectly until you get some keycaps on switches and place them in the holes. I don't see any documentation online showing what layouts the bottom row supports. Just laying the caps won't show you that.
yeah, I know... I was hoping someone had already built his/hers to tell... oh well, I'll have to be patient then
Now I'm regretting I didn't get the 6.25U hammer carbon spacebar... I did the math with the mounting holes: the only lautet I can do is 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 6.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25sooo, I'm planning to put my TriC 80 together this weekend and noticed that the WKL bottom row doesn't have the standard 1U blockers, but rather .75U blockers...
this gives me some rather "exotic" bottom row options.
Am I right assuming I can do something like a 1.25, 1.5, 7, 1, 1.5, 1.25 or a [...] 7, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25 layout?
pic for reference:Show Image(https://static1.squarespace.com/static/56aade6ed210b85419e21e0c/t/59b1dac82994caee6bc2ec55/1504828108562/21556835_10214611069051643_76414517_o.jpg?format=750w)
(I know I could just lay out some loose caps to find out, but I'm not home until the weekend and I can't stop wondering) ;)
They have to add up to 15, so check the math. I wouldn't count on anything working out perfectly until you get some keycaps on switches and place them in the holes. I don't see any documentation online showing what layouts the bottom row supports. Just laying the caps won't show you that.
yeah, I know... I was hoping someone had already built his/hers to tell... oh well, I'll have to be patient then
Haven't seen many of these built with blockers at all. I'll be interested to see what you come up with. I really liked this board but didn't have money at the time to buy one.
rico, let me know once you built yours up if you were able to get the side lights working. I believe originative gave me 2 right hand LED sticks so I cannot get them to work. I might email them about it but last time I asked for support on this board they gave me no info (well wrong info) so I'm not betting they will be willing to help with this issue as well.
I have the WK with the blockers and it's awesome. I went with the 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 6.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25 set up. This is a great board with lots of cool extra's I wish I could get the side lights to work though :(
Wow! Quite lovely! :thumb:Gorgeous, popped some assorted vintage blacks in there. Went through about 150-200 switches to find those most smooth and consistent
How's it feel?
That's awesome. Did you have to solder the switches each time or did you make it so you can remove them without soldering?
That's awesome. Did you have to solder the switches each time or did you make it so you can remove them without soldering?Well the switches I assorted single by hand before I soldered them.
rico, let me know once you built yours up if you were able to get the side lights working. I believe originative gave me 2 right hand LED sticks so I cannot get them to work. I might email them about it but last time I asked for support on this board they gave me no info (well wrong info) so I'm not betting they will be willing to help with this issue as well.
I have the WK with the blockers and it's awesome. I went with the 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 6.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25 set up. This is a great board with lots of cool extra's I wish I could get the side lights to work though :(
Hi there, couldn't get the side LEDs working either... I think the strips are the same and are just mounted vice-versa, but when I put them on, the keyboard doesn't get recognised anymore, so I took them back off until someone figures it out and tells us ;) (it's a shame).
anyway, this is how it looks at the moment:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/DfdjtCU.png)
rico, let me know once you built yours up if you were able to get the side lights working. I believe originative gave me 2 right hand LED sticks so I cannot get them to work. I might email them about it but last time I asked for support on this board they gave me no info (well wrong info) so I'm not betting they will be willing to help with this issue as well.
I have the WK with the blockers and it's awesome. I went with the 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 6.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25 set up. This is a great board with lots of cool extra's I wish I could get the side lights to work though :(
Hi there, couldn't get the side LEDs working either... I think the strips are the same and are just mounted vice-versa, but when I put them on, the keyboard doesn't get recognised anymore, so I took them back off until someone figures it out and tells us ;) (it's a shame).
anyway, this is how it looks at the moment:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/DfdjtCU.png)
Unfortunately not... Same to you if you find out ;)rico, let me know once you built yours up if you were able to get the side lights working. I believe originative gave me 2 right hand LED sticks so I cannot get them to work. I might email them about it but last time I asked for support on this board they gave me no info (well wrong info) so I'm not betting they will be willing to help with this issue as well.
I have the WK with the blockers and it's awesome. I went with the 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 6.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25 set up. This is a great board with lots of cool extra's I wish I could get the side lights to work though :(
Hi there, couldn't get the side LEDs working either... I think the strips are the same and are just mounted vice-versa, but when I put them on, the keyboard doesn't get recognised anymore, so I took them back off until someone figures it out and tells us ;) (it's a shame).
anyway, this is how it looks at the moment:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/DfdjtCU.png)
Ever figure out those side LED's? I'm about to start a build.
Yikes, though—$425 U.S. (plus shipping, I assume) for a keyboard made in Korea for probably around $50? Isn't that a bit exploitative? I mean, you could buy two RealForces for that.
Are you sure you guys aren't falling victim to premium pricing (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Premium_pricing), a kind of psychological manipulation some vendors use to create the impression that products are extra-good just because they cost so much? I'm just saying.
That's exactly the same thing that happens to me. The reason why I think there are 2 Right hand ones is because they both have a "R" stamped on them, plus tracing the data/ground/io there is no loop so both cannot be used anyway. :(
Anyone get 2 "L" and want to trade one of my "R"
Sorry to necro this thread but it's important to state that you need to SOLDER the LED strip to the board for it to work.
Sorry to necro this thread but it's important to state that you need to SOLDER the LED strip to the board for it to work.
Thank you :)
However, we are aware of that already. Don't worry you aren't necroing the thread.
Best pic I can manage at this time of what the "L" marked one looks like on both sides prior to soldering: https://imgur.com/a/7vaZ1 (https://imgur.com/a/7vaZ1)
Super necro post, but mine recently arrived after ordering at Originative and was wondering if you guys had an issue with missing screws?
I'm missing the screws to attach the PCB for the USB hub to to the bottom of the board, as well as screws to attach the acrylic to the side piece, and rubber feet.
Board looks great, but I can't really make it haha.
Ah, how did you end up attaching the PCB to the USB Hub? I have no idea what the screw dimensions for this are lol.
Ah, how did you end up attaching the PCB to the USB Hub? I have no idea what the screw dimensions for this are lol.
well, with the hub-pcb attached to the main one with the flex-cable, the hub sits more or less stable in the bottom part without fixating it. But I did use some double-sided sticky foam in the end to secure it a bit better
ah that's neat... should still have a few of those laying aroundAh, how did you end up attaching the PCB to the USB Hub? I have no idea what the screw dimensions for this are lol.
well, with the hub-pcb attached to the main one with the flex-cable, the hub sits more or less stable in the bottom part without fixating it. But I did use some double-sided sticky foam in the end to secure it a bit better
Sherry figured it out and it turns out it uses 60% screws, the one that attaches the PCB to the case.