geekhack
geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => DIY Discussions ARCHIVE => Topic started by: Santa on Wed, 10 February 2010, 22:33:03
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so after watching tons of videos on painting and all of that, I feel I am more prepared than the average bloke in painting. Especially plastic. I'm going with vinyl paint and some clear coat to make it last longer. I'm just wondering if it is a good idea to sand down some parts of the casing before painting. I will post pics after I am finished.
EDIT: i'm finally done
ok so here are the pics :D
I hope you enjoy them, after spending the whole entire day working on it, I think i did a good job because I'm not that great of a painter.
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj188/Santamacx/IMG_0206.jpg)
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj188/Santamacx/IMG_0207.jpg)
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj188/Santamacx/IMG_0208.jpg)
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj188/Santamacx/IMG_0209.jpg)
final thoughts on it vinyl dye: Great product if you prep well. Model M casing fares well with it too, which is a big plus. Very different experience from working with krylon fusion, this is more like a dye, and that is more like a paint. This IMO bonds better with plastic.
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Have you read the RIT dye thread here on GeekHack?
If not, see here:
http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:4962&&highlight=rit+dye
Edit Note....pay attention to the end of the thread on RIT dye...the part about using warm water with some acetine in the mix...DO NOT attempt to dye a case by boiling or very hot water...you will destroy it.
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Spec_57
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If you use dye I wouldn't sand it unless you're an absolute sandpaper master with a lot of time on your hands because it will be difficult or impossible to make all surfaces uniform and you may get a bad result.
If you're painting or rubberizing, that's different.
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Bead blast it?
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Bead blasting can be tricky too, especially on objects with sharp edges. I have a blasting cabinet in my garage that I use for another hobby. You can do it of course, it's just that anything with more texture will soak up more dye, anything with less will not. So you can sometimes get an ununiform finish if you're not careful. Also edges get hit worse than flat or curved areas with a bead blaster so that's something to keep in mind.
But then again, we're talking about BLACK in this case, so it's less critical. You won't be stopping to get the right shade of black like you would if you were dying colors.
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Here's my attempt:
http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:6759
The Dupli-Color flat black is holding up really well, there are no chips or discolorations on the case as of yet.
I didn't try to paint or dye the keys on this one, I ended up using the keys off of an M13 with a broken trackpoint that I picked up cheap.
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Here's my attempt:
http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:6759
The Dupli-Color flat black is holding up really well, there are no chips or discolorations on the case as of yet.
I didn't try to paint or dye the keys on this one, I ended up using the keys off of an M13 with a broken trackpoint that I picked up cheap.
Well you used the adhesion promoter, which I heard from xbox 360 controller painters that Dupli-color vinyl dye already has tons of it already inside, so no need.
Is there a difference between the regular and flat black?
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Well you used the adhesion promoter, which I heard from xbox 360 controller painters that Dupli-color vinyl dye already has tons of it already inside, so no need.
All I know is that it came out great prepping with the Dupli-Color Adhesion Promoter. I can't really say whether it was necessary or not, maybe somebody else can skip that step and see how it goes.
Edit: ah, just watched the video. I guess it wasn't necessary but it didn't hurt.
Is there a difference between the regular and flat black?
I only specifically referenced the flat black because that's what I used. I don't know how a glossier color will hold up or if the coating will look uniform.
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Have you read the RIT dye thread here on GeekHack?
If not, see here:
http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:4962&&highlight=rit+dye
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Spec_57
yes, i've actually read all of the pages of that thread
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Here's my attempt:
http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:6759
The Dupli-Color flat black is holding up really well, there are no chips or discolorations on the case as of yet.
I didn't try to paint or dye the keys on this one, I ended up using the keys off of an M13 with a broken trackpoint that I picked up cheap.
Would this be an option for those in the US - order black blanks and have them etched through IKBS (http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:8755)? Trying to get black keys otherwise seems to be impossible save for keyboard harvesting.
Not sure if I have the exact paints you do, but it sounds tempting in the least to do to the Terminal Model M I have.
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Ripster is corrent, RIT dye by boiling will likely warp and destroy the 'M' case.
Bad suggestion on my part.....I was sort of thinking along the lines of what was mentioned in the latter part of the RIT dye thread, that is *warm* not hot water with some acetone in the mix
I should have been clear and more detailed in what I suggested.
Ripster, thanks for pointing out my error.
Glad no grief resulted.
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Spec_57
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ok, good news.
So I bought the paint yesterday, and i prepped it and started painting today ( i had not time yesterday because of chinese new year). At first it seemed kind of splottered, but after putting on a few more coats and waiting, the result is fantastic! I can't believe it looks so nice compared to painting with regular spray paint. The paint has bonded so nicely that it has a nice flat finish. BTW i didn't get dupli-color, because autozone didn't have dupli-color vinyl dye in black.
I will post pictures after the keys cure and i reassemble it tomorrow :)
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ok so here are the pics :D
I hope you enjoy them, after spending the whole entire day working on it, I think i did a good job because I'm not that great of a painter.
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj188/Santamacx/IMG_0206.jpg)
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj188/Santamacx/IMG_0207.jpg)
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj188/Santamacx/IMG_0208.jpg)
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj188/Santamacx/IMG_0209.jpg)
final thoughts on it vinyl dye: Great product if you prep well. Model M casing fares well with it too, which is a big plus. Very different experience from working with krylon fusion, this is more like a dye, and that is more like a paint. This IMO bonds better with plastic.
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That's pretty slick looking.
Well done.
Let us know how well it holds up under everyday usage.
I've been thinking a medium-grey or silver-grey for one of my boards...but not painted because of durability concerns.
Thanks for posting your info.
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Spec57
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Did you paint the cable and the keycaps, too, or did you get some replacements from Unicomp? Nice job, BTW.
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That looks fantastic! Good job :)
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Looks great! It really does have an excellent matte finish. I didn't know that vinyl dye spray paint worked so well. It's glorious!!!
Also, do you notice if it sounds different, and is the keyboard heavier now?
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BTW i didn't get dupli-color, because autozone didn't have dupli-color vinyl dye in black.
Which brand/product did you use?
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Which brand/product did you use?
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=370
rustoleum Fabric and Vinyl
and yes I did paint the cord, it seems safe enough to do so.
thanks all of you for your feedback, i'll be sure to post back with my comments on how well it holds up.
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I'd be interested to hear how it's holding up as well. Does it show any wear? Are keys becoming shiny with use?
Cheers
SainT
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I tried Duplicolor black dye on an M2 but it wore off the keys relatively fast.
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No way would painted keys last.
Yeah, Dupli-Color works well on cases but I'd stick to Rit dye for keys.
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Wouldn't it just be easier to order black blank keys from unicomp?
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Wouldn't it just be easier to order black blank keys from unicomp?
Does Unicomp still sell M2 keys? They're different than the regular Model M keys.
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I like this somewhat, but what does everyone think of the look of painting just the case and NOT the keys. I might first try it with the Key Tronic I have.
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it's holding up pretty well, a few chips here and there, but not bad. I really think that it's a good alternative to dying if you don't have access to dying. The keys are not fading, but kind of turning brighter.
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newbie question but can you replace those keys with aftermarket ones that are already black?
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Sure. Click on the Unicomp SpaceSaver link in my sig.
But Blanks only for Unicomp. Bug them anyway since they did find one lettered set in the back room and may have more. (http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1036307276&postcount=19)
nice. thank you!