I'm getting confused by definitions here. But before we get to that, here's what I've done:
1) Removed the big chip that looks like the black and white diagram in the pic that I posted previously.
2) Using that same diagram, I wired pins from the Teensy2.0 to the corresponding pins on the old chip's footprint.
3) Dragged and dropped Soarer_Controller_v1.20_beta4_atmega32u4.hex into the Teensy gui, and pressed the button on the Teensy2.0.
4) In the terminal, cd'ed into Soarer_Controller_v1.20_beta4\tools\Soarer_sctools_v1.20_beta4_win32, pasted 6112884.sc in the directory, and ran ./scaswr 6112884.sc.
Current status: After reheating my solder points for the wires on the old chip's footprint and plugging back in, I am getting output from the keyboard. I don't understand the layout yet and the bottom "z" row doesn't seem to work, but "a" outputted "a," "s" cranked out "s," etc. Progress!!! :D
(Did I mention that this is a really nice typing keyboard? I wish it was clicky, but these Alps switches with a short travel distance and thick keycaps ... I'm tempted to buy a couple of these and try to put the switches into a custom Ergodox.)
I have since desoldered the wires going into the old chip's footprint, and will do a better job this time around. And I need to learn the .sc file language, which means studying the docs.
I had initially set out to do this with a Pro-Micro, but I think using a Teensy2.0 is a far better choice, especially for novices like myself. The Teensy gui (familiar to Ergodoxians like myself), the button as opposed to trying to short GND and RST, supporting PJRC's good work, assembled in America ... IMHO, those are worth the $10 extra.
Now regarding definitions ...
What constitutes "flashing?" Is it what I did with the Teensy gui, what I did with the .sc file in the terminal, or both?
What is the difference between a "Soarer's Converter" and a "Soarer's Controller?" Is the difference related to why I had to remove the IC chip?
I'd also still like to know why installing the Teensy2.0 to the red, white, yellow, and black wires pictured here ...
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/IDKltVt.jpg)
... wouldn't work.
What a great keyboard indeed! I ended up cutting the tenkey off mine but I love it. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=85806.msg2302188#msg2302188
I logged into GH today so I figured I'd answer some posts.
1. so this keyboard has 2 chips. One is the controller, which doesn't have enough pins (You removed that) and the other drives all the columns (that stays in place) The soarer controller has capabilities for muxstrobes, which is what it uses here (hence the complicated .sc file!) but the columns go right to the controller (pretty sure, haven't looked recently)
Given your issue, I would continuity test between that row and your teensy. Might need to resolder it or wire it directly to a switch.
"flashing" is usually putting firmware on the chip, with the teensy.exe or similar, Soarer firmware stores its KB config file so it does not have to be flashed with new firmware every time. In the old days you would get some UV and literally flash the firmware off the EPROM, but then they made EEPORMS that were "flashable" electronically, and now you have this. Most firmwares require you to flash every time you change layouts, so it's become common parlance to say that whenever you are reprogramming it.
Soarer converter converts one keyboard protocol to another. For example PS/2 to USB. The KB still ahs its own controller. This came out a while ago and had many updates
Soraer converter reads the raw KB matrix and acts as the controller of the Keyboard. This is what we have here. Soarer released this towards the end, and it's much less common, especially now that hasu's firmware and others have better support than they did back in the day.
Soooo. I'm pretty sure these use the same protocol as the 4704 banking model F "kishsaver" or whatever they're calling them nowadays, I *think* but i'm not sure that Hasu might have a converter around that will convert them. If that exists then you can plug the teensy into that header and go for it.
Hope this helps,
Cheers!
edit: one more thing: putting these switches into an ergodox would be a difficult undertaking since they aren't the normal ALPS they would require you to custom-make a plate and a custom PCB too (or direct wire). it would be awesome though.
Would you say these switches are linear? to me they are tactile, like browns but less, but they are often called linear tee mount alps.
Would you say these switches are linear? to me they are tactile, like browns but less, but they are often called linear tee mount alps.
I asked the missus to come in and test the keys out and she couldn't detect a bump either. Is it possible that there were both tactile and linear switches available? The only information that I've found regarding these boards have been from others who have converted them to USB.
I don't think so , I have had two of the pingmaster keyboards (I'm glad that name finally took off over pingsaver because I popularized it) as well as an alps board for the kiibohd project, and a few M0110, and they all feel slightly tactile to me. I think it's me just feeling the actuation point. I cant really do blind testing because I can tell the keycaps. Still it's very interesting that we get a range of responses here.
Awesome work on your board! It's one thing to take vintage stuff and get it to work on a modern computer; it's another to do that AND make something that conforms to your specifications. True hackery!
And regarding the Ergodox with these switches ... I've gotta learn how to design a plate and also learn where to get it made. I haven't drawn it out yet, but what I would ultimately like to do is build a "Batwing" one-piece Ergodox ...
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/8T8V4jC.jpg)
... with the space in the middle large-enough to accommodate a CST2545-5W trackball, and just enough tenting to make accessing the top of the trackball with the thumb and index finger easy. And each "wing" would have a 4x5 group of buttons extending off the ends.
Designing the metal plate, where to get it done, handwiring, 3D printing ... these aren't skills that I have yet. But a month ago, I didn't know how to solder or restore one of these old boards. So onwards and upwards!
Yes a true project indeed! Still, that's what GH is all about. I admire your willingness to learn. Fortunately these switches are really easy to design a plate for: the cutouts are square and the edges can have a pretty wide bend radius. With solidworks you could make one and linear pattern it across and call it a day. Autodesk is a little harder but still easy. Getting the tenting done is actually quite a challenge, not sure the best way to accomplish that will be. for me the hardest part is always the design. what to do and how to do it. once you know that then the execution, while still hard, is at least straightforward. Look at kurplop's efforts and obra as well, their amazing designs are all the product of multiple iterations and improvements.
I checked and you can put the kb controller back and just convert the keycodes with a hasu, but you already knew that (https://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/converting-an-ibm-pingmaster-t16109.html)
Cheers,