Here's what I started playing PC games on:Show Image(https://www.pcgamesn.com/sites/default/files/Packard%20Bell%20keyboard.jpg)
It's the keyboard that came with my circa 1998 Packard Bell PC. It doesn't have a 50-key rollover, and it didn't come in a variety of Cherry MX varieties for me to choose from. And yet never once, during year after year of use, death after death in some of the best (and worst) first-person shooters the platform has ever seen, did I ever sit back in my chair watching a You're Dead screen and go, "that was my keyboard's fault."
Correct me if I'm wrong but that's an electro-capacitive (mechanical) keyboard yea? [hence the irony]The keyboard is probably BTC rubber dome, not sure if over PCB, or membrane. Definitely not bad. I don't think they still used cap-sense at that point (see Windows keys), though; and capsense definitely isn't a mechanical actuation technology.
It's taken me that long, five years of daily use, to crystallise a few salient facts in my brain:
It's much harder to type accurately on mechanical keyboards.
They're incredibly, distractingly noisy.
They don't make me any better at games, nor the games any more enjoyable.
They're more expensive than membrane keyboards.
They're really not a solution to anything..
They're not going to make you a better typist although many can definitely help you in certain ergonomic ways if you make an effort..
They're not going to make you a better gamer...although they should be more reliable...
But what does any of that have to do with using a mechanical keyboard? If you bought on to be a better typist or gamer, you wasted your time...
You may get more enjoyment out of them...I certainly enjoy using them more...Really that's all it is about..
Most of that article comes from a place of ignorance though...
Yep. https://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/cherry-keycaps-from-a-rubberdome-t6129.htmlCorrect me if I'm wrong but that's an electro-capacitive (mechanical) keyboard yea? [hence the irony]The keyboard is probably BTC rubber dome, not sure if over PCB, or membrane.
Yeah, it seems sort of poorly thought out to me. finding the actuation point and not pressing down past that is indeed harder than just bottoming out a RDOM, but you can just bottom out a mech, so the process is really the same. Likewise, a matias silent or topre 30g will be much quieter than that Packard Bell, and I had one in 1996 when I was a kid. As for expense, if you like a loud keyboard -and I do- you can pick up a model m for like $20. Cheap and relatively quiet TG3 for about the same (I got two for $20 shipped once) and large, but quiet enough and cheap cherry G80-8113 for under $30. Now these aren't as cheap as the $11 Logitech or $9 aliexpress keyboard, but I don't think anyone will call that expensive.QuoteIt's taken me that long, five years of daily use, to crystallise a few salient facts in my brain:
It's much harder to type accurately on mechanical keyboards.
They're incredibly, distractingly noisy.
They don't make me any better at games, nor the games any more enjoyable.
They're more expensive than membrane keyboards.
... and none of these facts are necessarily true. Except the last, for which one could find counter examples too.
I can't even tell if this guy is trolling, but the article surely is entertaining.
Since when are mechanical keyboards supposed to be a solution, and since when was there a problem? xD
I bought a mechanical keyboard mainly for comfort... not performance... comfort.
What's this poor fella gonna do when he saves up to buy an Audi and finds out it doesn't make him a better driver?
I remember all too clearly pressing the corners of the rdom keys when I was in a hurry and the keys not being registered. Which. Yeah. How about no.
With the mechanical switches if I want to type as fast and as lightly as I want, I can. I don't have to worry about whether certain keys will be registered or not.
So yes I DID buy a mechanical for performance.
Now, you could learn to type lighter as a result and that may help in an ergonomic sense...but it isn't helping you in speed sense...Please don't say something like not bottoming out has helped you speed wise...
Mh. It seems like I haven't explained myself well.So if you've always typed light and fast how did you learn to type wouldn't you have had issues or did you use something else that would allow you to learn to type like that? I'm asking because just by virtue of this not working out, you would adjust.
I touch type very lightly and fast-ish so I was having trouble with the rubber domes because I would often press the corner of the cap, or I would press too lightly and the key wouldn't be registered, and it bothered me.
I don't think I need to learn how to type lighter, and as for me saying that not bottoming out has helped me type faster.... That's not what I inteded to say, I must have used some weird phrasing.
I'm happy with my Reds specifically because they are a light, linear switch, so I can type at my usual light pressure and at my usual speed without worries.
So if you've always typed light and fast how did you learn to type wouldn't you have had issues or did you use something else that would allow you to learn to type like that? I'm asking because just by virtue of this not working out, you would adjust.I had carpal tunnel syndrome at the end of high school because of how fast I tried to take notes because most of my professors didn't bother to wait for us to write logical sentences.
Or better quality rubber dome keyboards or scissor switch wouldn't have this issue...
Even though the article definitely had its issues, I think it holds a lot of truth.
I feel like people are overly quick to disregard cheap rubber domes, just to end up with $1000 less on their bank account, and a topre board that feels almost exactly alike.
Nice clickbait article. When something gets popular the clickbait is sure to followThis.
I thought mechanical keyboards where the solution to loneliness since we can all come here and chat about them.
#dreamsruined #allhopeisgone
No one ever said a mech would make you better at games.Razer's marketing did. ~_^
Using a high end mechanical keyboard didn't make me a better typist or a gamer, but that's not what I bought it for to begin with.
It did however make me a better solderer, more knowledgeable about CAD files, PCB design and random knowledge about certain plastics.
Razer's marketing says a lot of things xD .No one ever said a mech would make you better at games.Razer's marketing did. ~_^
Razer's marketing says a lot of things xD .No one ever said a mech would make you better at games.Razer's marketing did. ~_^
Razer's marketing says a lot of things xD .No one ever said a mech would make you better at games.Razer's marketing did. ~_^
Are you telling me Razer's gear won't get me laid? Bastards lied to me!
The good ones certainly are cheap. You can find some top quality IBM rubber domes for basically free in any thrift shop.You can buy a lot of quality stuff in a thrift shop..how much time did you spend looking and how much is your time worth? How about cleaning it, etc? Just a poor example...
Correct me if I'm wrong but that's an electro-capacitive (mechanical) keyboard yea? [hence the irony]The keyboard is probably BTC rubber dome, not sure if over PCB, or membrane. Definitely not bad. I don't think they still used cap-sense at that point (see Windows keys), though; and capsense definitely isn't a mechanical actuation technology.
The writer has a point in a way, but got there through some quite weird mental gymnastics.
The good ones certainly are cheap. You can find some top quality IBM rubber domes for basically free in any thrift shop.You can buy a lot of quality stuff in a thrift shop..how much time did you spend looking and how much is your time worth? How about cleaning it, etc? Just a poor example...
I bought my HHKB for 100 but I'd never use that as my basis for how much it would cost...or use that as a number to give to someone as far as what they can buy one for...
The good ones certainly are cheap. You can find some top quality IBM rubber domes for basically free in any thrift shop.You can buy a lot of quality stuff in a thrift shop..how much time did you spend looking and how much is your time worth? How about cleaning it, etc? Just a poor example...
I bought my HHKB for 100 but I'd never use that as my basis for how much it would cost...or use that as a number to give to someone as far as what they can buy one for...
I have bought a keyboard at a thrift store..but only because it looked for all the world to be NOS
a terrible (except for the keycaps) Cherry G81-1800... it was in a box with the cord still in the bag.
for the 99% of the rest of the time used keyboards sleeve me the heck out... I can't do vintage /used keyboards... have to be NOS or it is a deal breaker for me...
I did however get this for $75 at a 2nd hand shop
The good ones certainly are cheap. You can find some top quality IBM rubber domes for basically free in any thrift shop.You can buy a lot of quality stuff in a thrift shop..how much time did you spend looking and how much is your time worth? How about cleaning it, etc? Just a poor example...
I bought my HHKB for 100 but I'd never use that as my basis for how much it would cost...or use that as a number to give to someone as far as what they can buy one for...
I have bought a keyboard at a thrift store..but only because it looked for all the world to be NOS
a terrible (except for the keycaps) Cherry G81-1800... it was in a box with the cord still in the bag.
for the 99% of the rest of the time used keyboards sleeve me the heck out... I can't do vintage /used keyboards... have to be NOS or it is a deal breaker for me...
I did however get this for $75 at a 2nd hand shop
u get all 5 --things -- for $75 ?
Honestly, I buy keyboards as an incentive to type stuff. However, I don't buy keyboards, so I don't type stuff.
They don't need to solve anything.Yup.
Very nice :D. If I ever saw an amp like that at one of my local thrift stores I'd probably pass out. Let alone a stack of decent audio gear.I have bought a keyboard at a thrift store..but only because it looked for all the world to be NOSThe good ones certainly are cheap. You can find some top quality IBM rubber domes for basically free in any thrift shop.You can buy a lot of quality stuff in a thrift shop..how much time did you spend looking and how much is your time worth? How about cleaning it, etc? Just a poor example...
I bought my HHKB for 100 but I'd never use that as my basis for how much it would cost...or use that as a number to give to someone as far as what they can buy one for...
a terrible (except for the keycaps) Cherry G81-1800... it was in a box with the cord still in the bag.
for the 99% of the rest of the time used keyboards sleeve me the heck out... I can't do vintage /used keyboards... have to be NOS or it is a deal breaker for me...
I did however get this for $75 at a 2nd hand shop
The good ones certainly are cheap. You can find some top quality IBM rubber domes for basically free in any thrift shop.You can buy a lot of quality stuff in a thrift shop..how much time did you spend looking and how much is your time worth? How about cleaning it, etc? Just a poor example...
I bought my HHKB for 100 but I'd never use that as my basis for how much it would cost...or use that as a number to give to someone as far as what they can buy one for...
I have bought a keyboard at a thrift store..but only because it looked for all the world to be NOS
a terrible (except for the keycaps) Cherry G81-1800... it was in a box with the cord still in the bag.
for the 99% of the rest of the time used keyboards sleeve me the heck out... I can't do vintage /used keyboards... have to be NOS or it is a deal breaker for me...
I did however get this for $75 at a 2nd hand shop
That's why I use a blackwidow ultimate. You're all just jealous I keep slamming your asses in Call of Duty /sNo one ever said a mech would make you better at games.Razer's marketing did. ~_^
The biggest issue mechanical keyboards solve is key rollover. If you ever try playing a game on an Apple keyboard made in the last few years for example you'll quickly notice that it just won't respond when you are holding enough keys and that makes it terrible for gaming. Same is true of most cheap membrane keyboards you can buy today.The majority of mechanical keyboards have 2KRO.
The old keyboard in the OP article probably has better rollover than many of the more modern ones. I sure as hell didn't experience any issues with the rubber dome keyboards I had back in the day and they didn't feel bad to type on either compared to the cheap Dell, HP etc keys you often encounter in offices all around the world.
A 60% keyboard has allowed me a bit more ergonomic working position so I have less fatigue. Beyond that, the Zealios on my home keyboard are just luxury. I use a Pok3r with MX Browns at the office and like that too. A lot of the expensive stuff keyboard fans buy are luxury items - exotic switches that feel just that little bit better than the more common models available on any cheap mech, esoteric layouts that are more clever than your bog-standard full or TKL size boards and often hideously expensive keycaps that certainly don't improve your typing experience but just look cool.
I don't think there is anything wrong with buying something because you like how it looks and feels, even if it doesn't solve a real problem for you.
The biggest issue mechanical keyboards solve is key rollover.
How do you perform Ctrl+Alt+Del with only 2KRO?
The biggest issue mechanical keyboards solve is key rollover.
Implementation determines how flexible the rollover is.
I had a Packard Bell Alps board with crappy 2KRO that was impossible to play games with. On the other hand I had no issues whatsoever with a Model M.
I also have no issues with the HP rubberdome I use now for gaming.
How do you perform Ctrl+Alt+Del with only 2KRO?
How do you perform Ctrl+Alt+Del with only 2KRO?
I just did it, it works!
To elaborate why it works - 2NKRO actually means 2 key presses can be pushed at the same time as the first key, so it's actually 3 keys registering at the same time. :)
A keyboard with "two-key rollover" can reliably detect only any two keys used simultaneously; in other words, a user can hold down any key on the keyboard and press a second key, and be sure that the keypress is correctly detected by the computer. However, if the user has two keys depressed and attempts to strike a third key, the third keypress may create a "phantom key" by shorting out the switch matrix. This is not acceptable for quality keyboards because there are many cases when more than two keys need to be depressed at the same time, such as Ctrl-Alt-Delete, or when more than two keys are depressed because of fast typing ("rolling over" more than two keys).
Idk what you're talking about, guys. Modifiers aren't counted in the #KRO figure, the end.
Is another case where we've lost a technically precise definition in favor of sloppy marketingspeak? Like how "classic beige" never seems to contain any actual beige? And how TKL removes considerably more than just "ten keys"? And the way everyone uses grams to describe (resistance) force?
It's much harder to type accurately on mechanical keyboards.