why hand solder when you can use an oven?
if you are doing just one board, the SMD isn't too bad if you plan ahead and use bigger pads. I actually find the SMD diodes goes faster since there is no need to bend and trim thing, I usually put solder on one side of each pad through the whole board first, then go back and reheat the pad while sliding the SMD into place. Once they are all secured, go back and solder the other end. Did this in half the time it takes to just placing the through-hole 1N4148.
If you are planning on doing more than one PCB, then find a low-temp solder paste and a oven that can reach 375F. It will allow you to assemble the PCB much faster, there are plenty of youtube videos on how to do this.
I'm happy to look at your kicad files but the folder is missing your module library.
I'm happy to look at your kicad files but the folder is missing your module library.
Ooops! Updated with new file (40+10 260517_2)
Hi, cool project...
Any thought to putting the 10-key on the left? Would bring the mouse in closer.
Best of luck. Probably learn a lot.
I'll check it out tonight or tomorrow :thumb:
Hi, cool project...
Any thought to putting the 10-key on the left? Would bring the mouse in closer.
Best of luck. Probably learn a lot.
One last quick question for the night - if I do replace the diodes and LED components, will I need to create a new PCBNew file from scratch since the netlist will change? Spent a lot of time getting everything lined up once lol.
Thanks everyone! Excited to be a part of this awesome community :D
No, you just change the modules associated with those components on the netlist and then update the PCB. Or you could go component by component in the PCB editor and change them but that'll take longer.
No, you just change the modules associated with those components on the netlist and then update the PCB. Or you could go component by component in the PCB editor and change them but that'll take longer.Awesome thanks! I'll likely switch the diodes to SMD on the flip side. I also realized I should remove the PCB mounting switch holes from the board since I'll be using a plate
One last thing, sorry for all the posts...
Which do you all think looks most visually appealing? Ignoring the key functions since the size difference makes little difference to me (I use ctrl very little so it being small or big isn't a bother either way)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/ajeTcd2.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/6FN1X6v.png)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/ae7R1Tt.png)
Design the PCB to be compatible with all 3 layouts
Design the PCB to be compatible with all 3 layoutsHaha, I suppose I could... would mean having blank spaces in my plate. I just suddenly noticed how uneven my layout looked, if that makes sense.
I'll update my Kicad files today or tomorrow ~ will update then.
Cheers!
You really don't notice the extra holes once caps are on the board. The GON HHKB supports 2 different bottom row layouts and after 2 years using mine the extra space has never bothered me.
Your traces look a little thin but I'm not sure if it'll matter, I use 0.406mm traces where there's room and drop it to 0.256mm if I need to pack them tighter together. Here's my MA42 PCB if that helps. Other than the traces your switch matrix looks a little weird but I don't think it's incorrect.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
I know you were only asking bout traces, but did you want to indicate Version #, Date, author, or logo in the silkscreen?You know, I was thinking about that earlier... I didn't know what I should put on there, was thinking about leaving it blank. I was thinking about calling the board "sFox 40+10" as that should be far enough away from White Fox.
I did notice your logo in copper, nice touch.
At the risk of someone else taking my idea, is "garlicboard" something that's been done before? :p
Seems a bit fitting, long, narrow, (will be) white PCB....
http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/deefedea4f1e6f569e215b70d19be315
Afaik, no
Your name is way more creative than any of mine have been MA42, MA52, MA-P
Nice project !
Tell us how it go with the SMD. I was afraid to go this way too, so I used regular trough-hole components. It's a bit tight but it fit. The oven trick seems a bit complex to tune...
For the LEDs, they are usually rated for 20mA but are usually bright enough at 10 or 15mA. The best was is to plug one in a breadboard and try different values for the resistor and see how bright they are. The brightness also change a lot depending the quality and manufacturer of the LEDs.
Anyway, I recommend you to wire these LEDs on the PWM output of the Teensy (ie. B6, C7, D7 ) so you can adjust the brightness by software, or even program some glowing effects.
You can check out my firmware to see how it's coded : https://github.com/nagius/tmk_thinkmatrix/blob/master/backlight.c#L29-L32
2 in M2 is the outer diameter of the thread in mm. Check the datasheet of DIN 912 for example: http://www.cim.mcgill.ca/~paul/CapScr.pdf
I love this project - this is the most useful looking 40% I've seen.
Any chance of a version with the numbers on the left?