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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: kohan69 on Tue, 09 March 2010, 02:57:46
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I was just starting to enjoy my first mechanical keyboard, and merely after 2 days of getting it, I started having problems!
The Z key gets stuck as illustrated in the video.
The plastic of the switch seems to be slightly chipped:
Good switch:
http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/1549/img4223m.jpg
Faulty switch:
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/9393/img4222o.jpg
What can I do?
Are the switches soldered in? Can I swap the switches from one to another?
Does ione have any kind of warranty? (I couldn't find info on their site)
Please advise!
:sick:
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Probaly a flash from molding on the stem or click slider, so you'd need a new switch. But I wouldn't do anything myself on a two week old board. Is there no mandatory manufacturer and/or vendor warranty in your country?
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I can vouch for the QC issues with the Scorpius M10. I loved mine and actually thought I might have dodged the various issues until it stopped registering keystrokes intermittently, and progressively got worse.
It is really too bad, since the switches felt great, and the overall construction was decent enough. I even thought about picking up another, but decided to go with Filco- would rather have one good board than several iffy ones. A keyboard is one peripheral I expect to just work, and if I have to pay a premium for a high quality tool that will do its job, so be it.
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Does ione have their own warranty?
It looks like it'd be easier to tear this apart and swap the switches than paying $10+ to RMA.
Before I tear mine apart, can I get a confirmation on the solder? What is it? Double-sided PCB?
PS: What's the build quality like on the ABS M1 board?
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Scorpius M10 is notorious for having quality problems. Return it. No guarantee the new one won't fail from a bad solder joint in three months though.
I hate you for being so right. :C
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It seems the key "binds"... I wonder if popping it open and applying some grease wouldn't help.
Of course, if iOne caused it by overheating the switch internals, there's no way of telling how the switch will behave. Got any proof of overheat?
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^ I figured that would be the reason for Cherry switch problems. Good to hear it will be such an easy fix in case I come upon it!
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Lol - I just remembered this problem. Some Cherry MX have a molding problem near where the LED cutout is. Causes sticking. Link to one of the previous threads.
(http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?t=9553&highlight=xacto)
Fix is to take a Xacto and cut away the burr.
Great ripster. I had exactly this problem with some keys of my PLU ML-87 (W, D, H). I was about to return it since I was thinking that it would require desoldering (once I've confirmed that the problem lay in the switch).
If this is not in the wiki, it shoud be. I searched the forum, found this, and your solution was a very easy fix. Now my W, D, H are butterly smooth MX Red switches.
Here are some photos highlighting the LED cutout defect. Feel free to use it in the wiki if you wish so.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Furuyah/Keyboard/PLUML-87/BlackMXRed/LEDcutouts.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Furuyah/Keyboard/PLUML-87/BlackMXRed/LEDcutout.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Furuyah/Keyboard/PLUML-87/BlackMXRed/DefectiveLEDcutout.jpg)
(sorry for the cat's hair!)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Furuyah/Keyboard/PLUML-87/BlackMXRed/FixedLEDcutout.jpg)
(hair removed!)