geekhack
geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => Topic started by: Damonskv on Thu, 17 August 2017, 12:04:41
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Hello, gentlemen. I try to build theories on the subject of how to make a realforce more silence.
Conventional methods are known:
- lubing
- Purple sliders (Hypersperes etc.)
Yes they work, but not solve the main problem - housing.
(http://i.imgur.com/N6KRpLH.png?2)
Realforce case as if designed to amplify the noise. There are too much empty space and different cavities that create all sorts of revibrations.
I reflected on what to score this place some good sound dempering materials. And here I had a strange idea, which came from the artisans casting. What if to fill the empty space with the molding silicone?
There are many questions: how to do it proper?
Will it cause any damage to the pcb?
Dielectric properties of silicone?
How about heat removing?
Is it possible to spray on the pcb product, which is used for better removal of the silicone?(don't know how is called)
Do you think this could work or is it stupid?
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You could try sound dampening foam, although I don't think it would make a big difference...
At least it doesn't do much for pc's
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7n624lbIcx8
Maybe ask reddit for help
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well, silicone is a semiconductor, which means it can act as either a conductor or insulator just depends on what it interacts with. it is probably a bad idea bc i believe silicone will become a conductor when heat is applied and this could cause all kinds of circuit malfunctions
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How about resting the board on a strip on that foam? You could fill the case with shelf liner or felt.
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I have not tried it, but someone suggested modeling clay that does not dry hard.
Personally, I use rubber waffle material and felt, flat in sheets or rolled into cylinders.
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Plumbers putty would probably be better than modeling clay. Not sure long term how it would interact with the case plastic though.
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Look up neoprene foam sheets. They come in many thicknesses. You can use thin sheets for the shallower areas then thicker sheets for the deeper areas. I put a piece between my PCB and plate on one of my 60%. You will notice a different if you put it between the case and PCB.
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Felion modded the case of his Wooting One with electrical tape on the ridges and under stabilisers, and automotive bitumen sheet in the hollows to add weight and stability.
I don't think he posted about it here, but he did post a gallery on SweClockers (http://www.sweclockers.com/galleri/14315-ett-tyst-moddat-vanligt-tangentbord) in Swedish. Don't worry about the language - the pictures speak for themselves.
Bitumen sheets are used in automobiles just for cancelling vibrations.
I have seen other weight-mods on the forum in the past, with lead. Some custom keyboard models come with a large piece of brass in the bottom - which I suppose is for the same reason.
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Felion modded the case of his Wooting One with electrical tape on the ridges and under stabilisers, and automotive bitumen sheet in the hollows to add weight and stability.
I don't think he posted about it here, but he did post a gallery on SweClockers (http://www.sweclockers.com/galleri/14315-ett-tyst-moddat-vanligt-tangentbord) in Swedish. Don't worry about the language - the pictures speak for themselves.
Yes, thank you. Very uncompromising solution. Something like this I had in mind))
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What if to fill the empty space with the molding silicone?
I have had the same idea and believed that to be fine - only because fine models are moulded with it. It should not be exothermic either.
"robo" on Deskthority (I don't know if he is here) ruined his keyboard (https://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/how-i-destroyed-my-keyboard-with-an-attempted-mod-t17074.html?hilit=caulk) using silicone caulk... because it released chemicals while curing that ate away at the PCB.
If you would pour RTV inside an empty plastic cavity, removed it, cleaned it and then replaced it, I think you should be safe. Especially if you used food-grade silicone that is supposed not to leak anything after it has cured.