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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: zars15 on Mon, 25 September 2017, 17:48:56
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Today I accidentally stumbled upon this beauty. Found it at my university, where it was left out for disposal. Cleaned it up and now it's looking stunning.
Switches feel amazing, I would say they are like more superior Cherry MX blues, both sound and feel wise. They are definitely heavier though, but not really a problem, since I've been typing on Gateron blacks previously.
I was considering creating custom keyboard logic PCB based on this one (http://mg8.org/rump/), but then I found out about SDL to USB cable with built in Soarer's converter, so might go with that instead.
Also might look into getting some different keycaps, as this one has German.
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You really can't go wrong with the Model M. If the buckling springs in them were just a little lighter I'd probably be using one.
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Today I accidentally stumbled upon this beauty. Found it at my university, where it was left out for disposal. Cleaned it up and now it's looking stunning... Switches feel amazing, I would say they are like more superior Cherry MX blues, both sound and feel wise... Also might look into getting some different keycaps, as this one has German.
Congratulations—I mean apsveicam! You have arrived at the peak of the keyboard mountain. Now you can relax, enjoy real typing pleasure, look out over the wide landscape of inferior keyboard technology, and be gracious to those who aren't as lucky as you. :?)
It looks like you did a very nice job cleaning up your M. They were made so well, even when they've been used for decades, they can usually be cleaned up to look almost new.
Did you remove the top of the case and the keys, too, and clean out any debris from between the keys? As you may know, to open the case, you'll need a 5mm thin-walled hex-nut driver like this one:
(https://guideimg.alibaba.com/images/shop/69/08/07/1/greenlee-5-16-in-x-3-in-sae-hex-nut-driver_2440961.jpg)
You can usually get them online quite cheaply.
You'll also want a proper key pulling tool, which are usually included with new mechanical keyboards, or you can order one online (https://www.ebay.com/sch/Computers-Tablets-Networking/58058/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=key+puller&_sop=15) for only $1 or so. It's much better than trying to remove them with a screwdriver, or some other improper tool, which could easily damage them.
You didn't post a photo of your keeb's "birth certificate" (what we vintage keyboard people call the back label), but I'm guessing it's a p/n 1391403, the most commonly produced German/ISO Model M. Is that true? Feel free to show us the info anyway.
Also might look into getting some different keycaps, as this one has German.
Unicomp (http://www.pckeyboard.com/), who took over Lexmark's keyboard factory in the '90s, still makes many types of Model M key sets. They may be able to make an actual Latvian one for you. Since you got your board for free, you may think it's worth investing a bit of dough on something like that. Cheers!
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you'll need a 5mm thin-walled hex-nut driver like this one:
Actually, it is a 7/32" but 5.5mm will work properly. You can buy a socket but it needs to be both "thin-walled" and "deep"
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You didn't post a photo of your keeb's "birth certificate" (what we vintage keyboard people call the back label), but I'm guessing it's a p/n 1391403, the most commonly produced German/ISO Model M. Is that true? Feel free to show us the info anyway.
I did include a photo of the label on the back as an attachment, instead of inline image. It seems to be the exact model. I find it pretty amazing how the keyboard is older than me, being made in 1988.
Did you remove the top of the case and the keys, too, and clean out any debris from between the keys? As you may know, to open the case, you'll need a 5mm thin-walled hex-nut driver like this one:
Yeah, I cleaned it from inside as well. Opening it was slightly annoying, because I didn't have the right size screwdriver around.
Unicomp (http://www.pckeyboard.com/), who took over Lexmark's keyboard factory in the '90s, still makes many types of Model M key sets. They may be able to make an actual Latvian one for you. Since you got your board for free, you may think it's worth investing a bit of dough on something like that. Cheers!
Will check out what's available there. Latvian layout isn't really common here, we mostly use aposthrope or right hand alt to type the accented letters.
As of now, it seems that I'll have to admire the keyboard without being able to use it, as I can't really get the converter cable at this moment. That's probably for the best, since my roommates won't appriciate the satisfying sound of buckling springs.
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You really can't go wrong with the Model M. If the buckling springs in them were just a little lighter I'd probably be using one.
Sounds to me like what you want is a model F.
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You really can't go wrong with the Model M. If the buckling springs in them were just a little lighter I'd probably be using one.
Sounds to me like what you want is a model F.
Heh, yeah, that's exactly what I thought too xD .
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Actually, it is a 7/32" but 5.5mm will work properly. You can buy a socket but it needs to be both "thin-walled" and "deep"...
Right you are. (Hmm, did Yoda originate that expression?)
I did include a photo of the label on the back as an attachment, instead of inline image...
You did indeed. Sorry, I was too much of a rush, as usual.
I find it pretty amazing how the keyboard is older than me, being made in 1988...
Hmm... Am I the only one who's really feeling his age right now?
[re Latvian legends]Will check out what's available there. Latvian layout isn't really common here, we mostly use aposthrope or right hand alt to type the accented letters.
That's interesting. Personally, I like boards with non-standard legends, and with unusual sub-legends (like the one I posted about here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71453.0)). It gives you that extra good geeky feeling.
As of now, it seems that I'll have to admire the keyboard without being able to use it, as I can't really get the converter cable at this moment. That's probably for the best, since my roommates won't appriciate the satisfying sound of buckling springs.
You can still threaten them with it, meanwhile. :?)
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Great find, especially the year! I have two from 1989, and they are great. Much better than the '90s specimen I had for a while. So far, the Model M is the standard by which I judge other keyboards.
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Am I the only one who's really feeling his age right now?
Don't be silly.
With Terrapin out of sight for quite a while now, I am probably the only active member born when Truman+Churchill+Stalin were running the world.
On a tangential note, the last verified person born in the 1800s died only a few months ago.
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On a tangential note, the last verified person born in the 1800s died only a few months ago.
Funny that you mention that. I was just wondering about that last night, googled it, and read about the lady.
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On a tangential note, the last verified person born in the 1800s died only a few months ago.
Funny that you mention that. I was just wondering about that last night, googled it, and read about the lady.
Not a GH member, though?
I have a small Model M collection. Two of them were in terrible condition when I got them, and both cleaned up very nicely.
Reminds me - I really should finish off my M122 project at some stage. Still need a few keycaps though ...