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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: Sifo on Thu, 28 September 2017, 17:16:30
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I got one of them lustros (yes I actually received it) and I've had it for a while now but the ****ing standoffs were milled from the
polycarb acrylic base so they came stripped as hell and now I can't mount any PCB onto it because the screws just keep spinning and won't hold. I've also tried using longer screws but those spin indefinitely too.
what's some ghetto or non ghetto fix preferably lowest effort or just give me a variety of options cuz this ****in sucks
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Loctite makes a thread repair kit that works well if the screw's threads are big enough.
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Alternatively, superglue.
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commit to one pcb and superglue it in
or
i think they make standoffs you can glue in to fix this issue, but i don't know what size/if they make the right size
someone more hardware minded will answer this better
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what are they teaching you in skool these days.
just take a slightly larger tap, and use a bigger screw.. hahaha
I would probably just drill a tiny hole diagonally across the standoff, and use a thin metal wire to bind the pcb ..
But that's only if you're a real engineer.. you have to have a high level of lazy + get'r'dun..
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Maybe drill straight through and use longer bolts and nuts.
If the thickness of the case does not match any available bolt length you might have to shorten the bolts: dremel cutting wheel and then grind away burr/rounding the end.
If the nuts are small enough to fit on the PCB, you could screw the bolts in from the bottom. If the bottom is thick enough, you could use countersunk bolts, with the bottom holes sunk with a countersink bit.
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what are they teaching you in skool these days.
just take a slightly larger tap, and use a bigger screw.. hahaha
that or fill in the hole with something and retap with standard threads
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Glue a wooden match stick or toothpick into the holes, then ream or drill out the wood just smaller than the shaft of the screw that you want to use.
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Seems to be a common complaint on that board. Got pics? Would help to offer a solution.
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Glue a wooden match stick or toothpick into the holes, then ream or drill out the wood just smaller than the shaft of the screw that you want to use.
for some reason this thought did not enter my head given they're machine screws and not wood screws, but there's really no reason this would also not work. a bit lower-tech than retapping but functionally just fine :)
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I'm pretty stupid when it comes to the non-electronic side of things but thanks for the suggestions everyone. Would prefer a non permanent solution so whenever I get the time we'll see which one I end up going with, and what I have the equipment for.
Oh also it isn't polycarb it's acrylic
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Seems to be a common complaint on that board. Got pics? Would help to offer a solution.
Don't have a pic but there are pics of the board all over here. Had no idea it was a common complaint but I can see it since using acrylic as standoffs seems pretty dumb. Also didn't wanna read or post in the thread because of issues with order fulfillment. Guess I'm lucky to even have the case. As pretty as it is, it's caused me a lot of stress buying different screws and **** for it because I'm too incompetent to actually just fix the problem.
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I'm pretty stupid when it comes to the non-electronic side of things but thanks for the suggestions everyone. Would prefer a non permanent solution so whenever I get the time we'll see which one I end up going with, and what I have the equipment for.
Oh also it isn't polycarb it's acrylic
in that case i would try fohat's suggestion first :)
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in that case i would try fohat's suggestion first
For stripped holes, you can start with tiny cylinders of rolled tissue, paper towel, or ordinary paper with no glue.
Next would be the same stuff, but glued in.
Next, the softest wood available, glued or not, then harder woods, with or without glue.
That is my usual repair progression for stripped holes of all types. Often the added compression of just a layer or 2 of paper is enough if you are using machine screws. Otherwise, you will need to create a hole.
If you are using pointed screws (wood or sheet metal type) then they will often tap their own way in.
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Could also try Plastite screws. https://www.mcmaster.com/#tapping-screws/=19lgk3k
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Actually now that I look at the LUSTRO, I think doing the idea with longer bolts + nuts at the bottom would be my lazy option you don't even need countersunk bolt heads because the bottom surface never touches the desk anyway since it's being lifted by the stands. Might look ugly, might look neat...
I tried the tissue/paper trick before posting this and it didn't work out for me. In case it wasn't clear I'm talking about the M2x4mm bolts that you find in Poker 2s and other universal 60% cases so these are tiny and a pain in the ass to work with.
I wish they had glued in standoffs to begin with, that's probably the most elegant solution but I'm terrible at gluing things.............
Could buy some of these
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41EZtJIzjeL._SX466_.jpg)
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Are they all stripped? You can live without screwing one or two screws in a pok3r case.
M2 inserts would work, granted that the standoffs are large enough to accommodate them or if there's enough room to drill. If so, you can then put inserts in the sockets with a soldering iron (https://youtu.be/NXAhOEn8nXQ?t=95).
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Are they all stripped? You can live without screwing one or two screws in a pok3r case.
M2 inserts would work, granted that the standoffs are large enough to accommodate them or if there's enough room to drill. If so, you can then put inserts in the sockets with a soldering iron (https://youtu.be/NXAhOEn8nXQ?t=95).
that's pretty smart, not sure if the plastic standoffs are large enough though so I will probably have to drill them out
yes they're all stripped
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Get m2 brass inserts. They should be 3mm thick. The standoffs you showed would work, but might be to long for your holes. Put the insert on top of the hole, and press into place with a soldering iron. You may need to ream out the hole slightly, but don't make it more than about 2.5mm.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
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Get m2 brass inserts. They should be 3mm thick. The standoffs you showed would work, but might be to long for your holes. Put the insert on top of the hole, and press into place with a soldering iron. You may need to ream out the hole slightly, but don't make it more than about 2.5mm.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Oh, I missed that TalkingTree said the same thing.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
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thinking m2x4mm standoffs might be too long since that's the length of the bolts.
maybe m2x3mm? i wonder if that would take up too much space in the case standoffs if i'm trying to solder them in...
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thinking m2x4mm standoffs might be too long since that's the length of the bolts.
maybe m2x3mm? i wonder if that would take up too much space in the case standoffs if i'm trying to solder them in...
get one that's longer, then grind it down.
/wear eye protection.
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thinking m2x4mm standoffs might be too long since that's the length of the bolts.
maybe m2x3mm? i wonder if that would take up too much space in the case standoffs if i'm trying to solder them in...
get one that's longer, then grind it down.
/wear eye protection.
even still I don't think I need 4mm considering the gh60 is... 1.6mm in thickness for the PCB? and the screws are 4mm long. so 3mm should be fine and if needed i can grind that down
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I love you guys, thank you everyone especially TalkingTrees and woodkeys for the standoff + soldering iron suggestion. My board is now complete :)
(https://i.imgur.com/WSuWbPd.jpg)
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And it looks very cool. :thumb: