Post by: Rumpleteazer on Sun, 15 October 2017, 12:46:15
Had a few questions about my first build. Does anyone know if this board uses usb micro or mini? I can't seem to find that info, I have trouble finding it for a lot of pcbs oddly enough.
Secondly, I I want standard sized keys, whatever would fit most key cap sets. I plan to stick the up coming Laser set on this. Would this board and the following plate support that? and what plate layout should I get?
https://kbdfans.myshopify.com/collections/keyboard-part/products/dz60-cnc-aluminum-plate
Post by: Rumpleteazer on Sun, 15 October 2017, 13:55:30
Post by: TalkingTree on Sun, 15 October 2017, 14:04:47
Post by: Zobeid Zuma on Sun, 15 October 2017, 15:43:41
Of the three plate options shown on that page, I think the "Plate B" steel option is the one you want. That 2.25x left shift is the standard size. Incidentally, I bought my DZ60 PCB through eBay, and the listing said nothing about it coming with any plate. It did come with one, which I think must be the Plate B. Photo here. . .
(http://zobeid.zapto.org/image/keeb/Zo64-02.jpg)
http://zobeid.zapto.org/image/keeb/Zo64-02.jpg (http://zobeid.zapto.org/image/keeb/Zo64-02.jpg)
One on top is the DZ60 plate, and the one on the bottom is the Banana Split 60 plate that I had originally intended to use. The DZ60 plate was better so I went with that.
Finished product. . .
(http://zobeid.zapto.org/image/keeb/Zo64-05.jpg)
http://zobeid.zapto.org/image/keeb/Zo64-05.jpg (http://zobeid.zapto.org/image/keeb/Zo64-05.jpg)
Never mind the ugly-ass keycaps, they are temporary and will be replaced RSN.
Split space bar was a priority for me, and the DZ60 is one of only a couple of PCBs that supported this layout. (The Banana Split is the other, but it's between production runs now.) However, if it's standard keyset compatibility you want, you could put a 6.25x space bar there and a normal 2x backspace, and you would have a bog standard 60% layout.
Also worth mention, the PCB does have RGB underglow pre-installed, and you can add your own LED backlighting to the key switches when you put them in. I put white 2x3x4mm LEDs on all mine -- they were a bit of a pain with tiny soldering points, but they all work OK. By default the one on the Caps Lock key works as an indicator.
Post by: Rumpleteazer on Sun, 15 October 2017, 16:15:29
Post by: clickityClackity on Sun, 15 October 2017, 16:35:48
Also worth mention, the PCB does have RGB underglow pre-installed, and you can add your own LED backlighting to the key switches when you put them in. I put white 2x3x4mm LEDs on all mine -- they were a bit of a pain with tiny soldering points, but they all work OK. By default the one on the Caps Lock key works as an indicator.
Out of curiosity what diameter solder did you use on the LED's? 0.62" (1.6mm) diameter is a little too big and can get messy, so I'm wondering if that is what you had. Using 1mm solder makes a world of difference..
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171015/5e859da1b20f007db70b6dec9def2de7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171015/db8343cd0ad9829994817d4c64b8a38d.jpg)
Post by: Zobeid Zuma on Sun, 15 October 2017, 17:07:31
Out of curiosity what diameter solder did you use on the LED's? 0.62" (1.6mm) diameter is a little too big and can get messy, so I'm wondering if that is what you had. Using 1mm solder makes a world of difference..
I used the thin solder that came with a soldering kit I got recently; the label says it's 0.8mm. I think it did help, relative to the thick solder wire that I used with my previous projects.
Post by: clickityClackity on Sun, 15 October 2017, 17:25:31
Post by: Zobeid Zuma on Sun, 15 October 2017, 20:15:25
How are you applying it exactly, if you don't mind me asking?
Applying? uhh. . . The solder? Not sure what you mean, it's just like soldering any other PCB component. Only smaller.
The worst thing for me was, the LEDs have to fit inside the housing of the BOX white switches, but if they are too far in they will interfere with the clicker mechanism. So a few times I had to re-heat the solder joints and pull on the already-clipped leads with micro-tweezers until I got the LEDs re-positioned as they should be, then clip them again. But that should not be a problem with most switches.
Post by: green_bb on Sun, 15 October 2017, 20:41:01
Thank you very much for the info so far! Good to know I can do standard build on this. I was also wondering if it came with RGB under glow, as I was pretty sure I had heard that. Very good to know, I may go with the tina kit for that very reason since it uses the DZ60.
Yeah it comes with RGB underglow presoldered
Post by: clickityClackity on Sun, 15 October 2017, 23:03:00
I got you, I've had the problem and it is a pain in the ass. Thanks for explaining, not sure why but curiosity caught me on that.How are you applying it exactly, if you don't mind me asking?
Applying? uhh. . . The solder? Not sure what you mean, it's just like soldering any other PCB component. Only smaller.
The worst thing for me was, the LEDs have to fit inside the housing of the BOX white switches, but if they are too far in they will interfere with the clicker mechanism. So a few times I had to re-heat the solder joints and pull on the already-clipped leads with micro-tweezers until I got the LEDs re-positioned as they should be, then clip them again. But that should not be a problem with most switches.
Post by: leokassio on Fri, 08 June 2018, 13:00:41
I used the thin solder that came with a soldering kit I got recently; the label says it's 0.8mm. I think it did help, relative to the thick solder wire that I used with my previous projects.
The LED of backlight must be single color right? It's not possible to add RGB LEDs?
Thank in advance.
Post by: Kilgarah on Fri, 08 June 2018, 15:36:13