geekhack
geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => Topic started by: MC Qwerty on Mon, 26 March 2018, 11:27:20
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Hey guys got a few questions:
Is their any solder that does not release any noxious fumes or contain lead that is good for soldering keyboards,
Thanks guys
and have a nice day
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All solder will release fumes, the majority of which is flux contained within the solder which helps to clean the soldering points. Lead is dangerous, sure, but if you take proper precautions such as washing your hands after soldering you won't have much to worry about. If lead really bothers you, you can get lead-free solder, but be aware that it is much more difficult to work with since the melting point is much higher. If you go the lead-free route, you will need to ensure that you have a very good soldering station (preferably with temperature control) that can reach at least 425F (220C), though 450F (232C) would be preferable. This is in contrast to leaded solder which melts at 361F (183C) for 63/37 or 370F (188C) for 60/40.
The other issue with flux fumes cannot really be solved unless you find a specialized solder, but there are none that I know of and if they do exist they will likely be very expensive. It's far more beneficial to just get a fume extractor which will suck up the fumes and filter the air (I use a $20 dehumidifier with charcoal filters... works great!). I also recommend using either a dedicated workspace for soldering, or making sure that the space you are using is properly covered, e.g. plastic tablecloths will work well.
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(this was a mistake dont know how to delete :P :-\)
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All solder will release fumes, the majority of which is flux contained within the solder which helps to clean the soldering points. Lead is dangerous, sure, but if you take proper precautions such as washing your hands after soldering you won't have much to worry about. If lead really bothers you, you can get lead-free solder, but be aware that it is much more difficult to work with since the melting point is much higher. If you go the lead-free route, you will need to ensure that you have a very good soldering station (preferably with temperature control) that can reach at least 425F (220C), though 450F (232C) would be preferable. This is in contrast to leaded solder which melts at 361F (183C) for 63/37 or 370F (188C) for 60/40.
The other issue with flux fumes cannot really be solved unless you find a specialized solder, but there are none that I know of and if they do exist they will likely be very expensive. It's far more beneficial to just get a fume extractor which will suck up the fumes and filter the air (I use a $20 dehumidifier with charcoal filters... works great!). I also recommend using either a dedicated workspace for soldering, or making sure that the space you are using is properly covered, e.g. plastic tablecloths will work well.
Thanks Man Really use full cant tell you how much this helped me,
I was thinking of picking up this soldering iron: Soldering Iron Kit, 60W Adjustable Temperature Soldering-iron Gun Kit with 5 Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Tin Wire Tube, Soldering Iron Stand, Tweezers, Wire Stripper Cutter and 2 Electronic Wire, https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adjustable-Temperature-Soldering-iron-Desoldering-Electronic/dp/B06Y5HVCMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522081271&sr=8-1&keywords=de+soldering+iron
would you have any recommendations that don't go over 40$ (note I live in UK :) )
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Personally I think most of the addons for the kit are mostly useless. I'd go with something like this instead, should serve you much better.
https://amzn.to/2G94KkW
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When I was very young and afraid of hot soldering iron, I would considered something like this (https://www.amazon.com/Sciplus-Electrically-Conductive-Soldering-Wire/dp/B000Z9H7ZW), only it was no as readily available back then. There must be a reason though this did not replace the solder to date, greater resistance perhaps?
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Soldering glue is good for minor repairs but it's relatively useless for when you need a solid electrical connection. Also, I'm assuming that you can't remove it like you can solder if you need to replace a component.
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Which solder should I use in ratio for soldering keyboards? and thanks
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I highly recommend 63/37 since it flows so easily. It's a bit more expensive than 60/40, but I think it's worth the cost. I bought a 1LB roll a couple of years ago for like $10 and I still have plenty left, even after several boards worth of soldering.
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You can also get a small fan with a carbon filter to help with fumes.
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As phorx suggested, consider getting yourself a fumes extractor if you're going to solder on a regular basis.
I bought for myself a ZD-153 which is fairly good but only sucks in fumes that are in a certain range. It's worth noting, though, that keyboard PCBs are usually massive compared to other electronic wares, you might need to either move the board or the extractor around during a single soldering session.
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Leaded solder is easier to work with and releases less harmful fumes than lead free. The fumes still aren't good for you, so I'd suggest a fan or fume extractor. I use a cheap $10 fan. Personally I work in a dedicated location (not at my desk like some people) and wash my hands a few times after to get rid of any lead on my hands. No problemo.
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Thanks so much everyone this is such good information
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https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-110-240V-Including-Portable-Temperature/dp/B074V28ZVS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522236754&sr=8-1&keywords=tokego+soldering+iron
expansion rate...just because it heats up in 8 sec...i would recommend letting it warm up to the lowest setting before cranking it up to about 316c
good luck
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forgot the stand...its really nice and only 12...science purchase
rapid temp change is tuff on things...im sure it doesn't make to much of a difference than the sponge but you won't be rapid temp changing the tip
the heating element in the tip design is better imo but they might not last as long if you are not careful with the physics
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GreatScott has a quick and dirty fume extractor build that I can recommend. A 12v dc power suppy and an old PC case are the two biggest components and most people have or can get a hold of those free. I added an adjustable buck/boost converter to mine just so I can control the fan speed but that's a luxury. After that all you need is a carbon filter and some zip tie. It's an easy build; perfect for someone just getting into electronics work.
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that was a good watch i really enjoyed it...for sure gonna check the channel...it is a good point about the fumes...i don't solder 24/7 so carbon masks do well enuf and they are cheap as hell...but the extractor is a good idea if the end game doesn't exist for you...#f_the_endgame...lul
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Thanks guys
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Make sure that if you buy parts separate to get an all-metal iron stand. I got one of those metal and plastic stands before, walked away for 3 minutes and came back to a pool of plastic on the iron.
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Thanks for the important info man