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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: Sup on Fri, 30 March 2018, 12:12:54
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I am in search for a TKL Alps kit that doesn't cost me a arm. Or is it best to buy a ALPS KBP V80 and replace the switches?
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I am in search for a TKL Alps kit that doesn't cost me a arm. Or is it best to buy a ALPS KBP V80 and replace the switches?
Oops lol
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Alps kits are pretty uncommon and the ones that are around are typically quite pricy. The usual recommendation is to just get a V80 and switch swap, with a Vortex aluminum case if you are so inclined.
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I started with a V80 rebuild, it is not easy getting that board desoldered but I feel like its still worth it. I've done a bunch of them now - probably worth the same desoldered as it is new with matias just because of the work and risk to do it and not destroy the pads. My go-to laptop board for work was a V80 with cream dampened skcm in it. (I'm willing to sell it... or sell you a desoldered v80.. or a v80 with matias QC if thats something you're interested in).
To my knowledge, the only other TKL PCB out there thats worth anything is the Leeku ALPhaS board which can be used in a bunch of the expensive aluminum TKL boards out there. I have one in my LZ CLS and its superb (albeit a bit of work to solder in all the diodes and stuff).
There are a bunch of inexpensive kits that "that_canadian" and "bakingpy" have made for things that are split ortholinear. I'm pretty sure all of their designs are MX and ALPS compatible. MiniDox, Iris, Nyquist, ECO, Lets Split w/ onboard controller... just to rattle off a few from the top of my head. http://keeb.io and http://www.maple-computing.com
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Kinda want one myself, buy i want a 90%-esque layout, sorta like the new Input Club Kira.
I think i'm going to handwire mine.
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If you can solder SMD, my XMMX (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=93422.0) supports ALPS and fits a Filco MJ2/CM QFR case.
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If you can solder SMD, my XMMX (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=93422.0) supports ALPS and fits a Filco MJ2/CM QFR case.
Looks like I need to learn how to solder SMD...
Side note, TalkingTree you are insanely cool in PCB design. I see you everywhere helping people out and I love your work. :thumb:
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If you can solder SMD, my XMMX (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=93422.0) supports ALPS and fits a Filco MJ2/CM QFR case.
Thats a great project! What do you do for plates though?
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Side note, TalkingTree you are insanely cool in PCB design. I see you everywhere helping people out and I love your work. :thumb:
Very kind of you to say, much obliged my good sir.
What do you do for plates though?
Usually I have them laser cut out of custom designs made with KLE and swill's builder.
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Matias/Fukka V80 + Switch Swap and Tai-Hao caps would be the best way to go.
V80's are very annoying to de-solder though. Not sure why. Even when the joint looks clean the switches just wont come out of the PCB.
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I started with a V80 rebuild, it is not easy getting that board desoldered but I feel like its still worth it. I've done a bunch of them now - probably worth the same desoldered as it is new with matias just because of the work and risk to do it and not destroy the pads. My go-to laptop board for work was a V80 with cream dampened skcm in it. (I'm willing to sell it... or sell you a desoldered v80.. or a v80 with matias QC if thats something you're interested in).
To my knowledge, the only other TKL PCB out there thats worth anything is the Leeku ALPhaS board which can be used in a bunch of the expensive aluminum TKL boards out there. I have one in my LZ CLS and its superb (albeit a bit of work to solder in all the diodes and stuff).
There are a bunch of inexpensive kits that "that_canadian" and "bakingpy" have made for things that are split ortholinear. I'm pretty sure all of their designs are MX and ALPS compatible. MiniDox, Iris, Nyquist, ECO, Lets Split w/ onboard controller... just to rattle off a few from the top of my head. http://keeb.io and http://www.maple-computing.com
Are the pins bend on the V80? I desolderd a AEK II once and some of the pins where bend then solderd making it super annoying to get all the solder out with a solder sucker. I would be interested in a desolderd board but i changed my plans. If my plans don't go trough i will send you a PM.
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One of the reasons they are such a pain to desolder is that the solder is lead-free. With a desoldering station they aren't too hard to remove though.