geekhack
geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => Topic started by: joelk2 on Sat, 07 April 2018, 15:28:15
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I’m not going to make excuses for this. I rushed the build, used stupidly thick solder and have potentially ruined my pcb.
I’m in the process of desoldering he whole board to start again and believe I may be able to jumper some areas of concern from the diode to pin but honestly don’t know where to start with that which is what I’m hoping I can get guidance on.
I’ve attached a full soldered picture and 2 concern areas.
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A few pads are in a bad shape, overall looks like you have cold joints and too much solder on them. Your equipment is probably not suitable for the task.
May I ask you what solder and soldering iron are you using?
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https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01LYGKXBE/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1523133567&sr=8-18&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=soldering+iron#immersive-view_1523133614001
This iron.
And
https://www.screwfix.com/p/fernox-solder-wire-tin-lead/75936
This solder. Although I have now bought some 60/40 rosin core to resolder the board
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the link to the solder is for pipe soldering in plumbing...way thick
i am sure your new 60/40 is thinner no... .06 to .08
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Yeah .4 if I remember correctly.
Thick stuff was an issue which is why I’m redoing it all. Problem being the burnt areas. Where can I bridge from with wire?
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Where can I bridge from with wire?
Try shorting them like so.
[attach=1]
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Yeah .4 if I remember correctly.
Thick stuff was an issue which is why I’m redoing it all. Problem being the burnt areas. Where can I bridge from with wire?
i wish i knew as to be more helpful...but the only advise i can give is resolder it and test the board...lookn burnt doesn't necessarily mean is toast
but even if is...don't get discouraged...another pcb may be in order
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Does it matter if these are where the pins come through?
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Does it matter if these are where the pins come through?
Pins on rows are usually connected to each other, so you should be fine with bridging them all.
Before soldering, try shorting them with tweezers anyway.
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That looks like a nice soldering iron.
Part of your problem is/was that is solid solder which means you were trying to solder these areas without flux. I'll bet you had to heat, re-heat, keep adding solder, etc. attempting to get things to stick and look right.
Just make sure your next solder choice is flux core for electronics.
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managed to fix it. everything almost working fine.
i am using this layout.
["esc",{a:0},"!\n1\n\n\nf1","\"\n2\n\n\nf2","£\n3\n\n\nf3","$\n4\n\n\nf4","%\n5\n\n\nf5","^\n6\n\n\nf6","&\n7\n\n\nf7","*\n8\n\n\nf8","(\n9\n\n\nf9",")\n0\n\n\nf10",{a:4},"_\n-","+\n=",{w:2},"Backspace"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{x:0.25,w:1.25,h:2,w2:1.5,h2:1,x2:-0.25},"Enter"],
[{w:1.75},"Caps Lock","A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","@\n'","~\n#"],
[{w:1.25},"Shift","|\n\","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:1.75},"Shift","del"],
[{w:1.25},"Ctrl",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"Alt",{w:6.25},"space",{w:1.25},"AltGr",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.25},"fn0",{w:1.25},"Ctrl"]
no matter how hard i try i cannot get \ to work. it always registers as a #
anyone got any ideas?
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no matter how hard i try i cannot get \ to work. it always registers as a #
anyone got any ideas?
It's defined as NUHS (non-us hash) while it should be definided as NUBS (non us backslash).
What tool are you using?
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using yang.tkg.io but after you saing that i found the right code to use.
was iso|\n\\ that i needed.
screwed back into the case and now backspace isnt working ffs
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screwed back into the case and now backspace isnt working
Did you put a jumper wire on that one? Double check if it's still in its place.
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I didn’t no. I’ve tried bridging everything I can think of but it registers as a 9 instead. I’ve attached a full board and backspace are picture.
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It's hard to read traces on a black PCB but, to me, it looks like the 2u backspace is wired to the pads marked by the number 66. Try shorting its pads with tweezers and see what character shows up.
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Nothing shows up when I short those 2 pins the pads there I think we’re very burnt though. Should I add more solder?
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Nothing shows up when I short those 2 pins the pads there I think we’re very burnt though. Should I add more solder?
Rather, if you have a multimeter, check continuity between adjacent pads.