geekhack
geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: SpatiallyAware on Wed, 05 May 2010, 09:09:44
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I've found that the cherry blue doesn't work well with the type of FPS gaming I do. It's fantastic for typing, but double tapping is difficult and I can't 'hover' near the actuation point. Also once I pass the actuation point I have to completely release the key before I press it again which slows me down.
Will a linear switch help with this? I really like the Deck keyboards but I'd like to be fairly confident that one of their switches will work with my gaming style..
Thoughts?
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A gaming pro wandered through here once and said Cherry Blacks FTW.
Although a pro could probably win using a rubber dome and a $10 mouse that was good enough for me.
lmao... true
cherry blacks win for gaming...
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Hmm... Alright, I think I'm going to go for the Deck with the linear black switches..
Does anyone have a quick link to the chart that shows actuation and tactile points for Cherry switches?
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Thanks Ripster, this actually has a clearer version:
http://www.overclock.net/computer-peripherals/491752-mechanical-keyboard-guide.html
http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=2267&pictureid=12840
Based on the graph of the blacks I think they'll work for hovering, since the actuation and release is in the same place versus the blues/browns where you have to almost completely release the key before pressing it again..
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Hmm... Alright, I think I'm going to go for the Deck with the linear black switches..
You also might consider swapping out the springs to get pseudo-red switches- linear, but with lower force. (Boards with real reds are nearly impossible to find, at least in the States.)
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You also might consider swapping out the springs to get pseudo-red switches- linear, but with lower force. (Boards with real reds are nearly impossible to find, at least in the States.)
How difficult is it to swap springs in a deck? It appears as though the switch would need desoldered from the board..
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How difficult is it to swap springs in a deck? It appears as though the switch would need desoldered from the board..
If they're PCB-mounted, it's a piece of cake. If they're plate-mounted, you have to desolder them. I don't recall which way the Deck keys are mounted- but I'm sure somebody around here does...
Edit: After a quick search, it looks (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?t=5181) like the Deck is PCB mount. Easy-peasy.
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No no no- the deck is very difficult to mod. Here is why - they all have LED's in them, the LED's do not allow you to pop off the cap of the switch housing because they will get in the way.
To replace any switches you need to desolder the switch and the LED as well. Thus the Deck is a PITA to swap switches in.
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Based on the graph of the blacks I think they'll work for hovering
Buy my TG3 (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?t=9814). It's got Cherry blacks, and is made by the OEM that supplies Deck with their keyboards.
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Meh, Just cut off the stupid LEDs.
I had misinterpreted it and thought the Deck didn't have the LEDs and the TG-whatever did. Shoulda read instead of skimmed.
Still, de-soldering and re-soldering the LEDs shouldn't be that big a job, unless there's something in the way on the underside of the PCB...
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Nah I'm not worried about it, I'll probably do the arrows just to see how it feels, then possibly WASD.
And no thanks on the TG3, I'm looking for a full size. Also, it seems like I read somewhere that there's a splash guard that drastically affects the way the keys feel?
I'm really leaning towards the black toxic deck, I wish I could see these in person though.. Any tips?
Thanks all!
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There are two kinds of splash guard: rubber and saran wrap. Both flavors of splash guard are removable.
The TG3 rubber splash guards affect the key feel, I haven't measured it but imagine it's more like 85 or 90 grams. The saran wrap splash guard doesn't change the way a Cherry black feels.