[Help] DZ 60 top row not working

[ameenkhan07]

I am soldering the switches onto the board. After I completed the top row (numbers), I tested them out. 8 key switch felt a little over-lubed, so thought to swap it out. After I desoldered it, can't seem to get any of the top row keys working. The second row works dandy though. I've read posts about trace being damaged but it looks fine to me.

I think placing a bridge might help me but have no clue between which keys this bridge has to be placed.  I am trying to test the ports out for all the switches in the top row. When I touch the USB-C port with the left switch leg with a conductor (wire), the keyboard tester detects the entire column being pressed. I am unable too find the points to connect(bridge) so that the top would work.
Any help/guidance/suggestion, any at all ?
 
Images: https://imgur.com/gallery/mXT60x7

[suicidal_orange]

A quick look on a small screen suggests there are a lot of tiny bits of solder where they shouldn't be so definitely clean those up to prevent shorts.

I'll have a proper look later on a big screen and suggest some places to 'fix'.

[suicidal_orange]

I think this is the 8 switch, it certainly looks like it's been soldered more than the others.  It's above the controller chip so it's possible that the switch pin is used as a via which would explain the whole row dying.

As you can see I've added dots to your pic, if jumpers are needed this would be where they go.  Solder the yellow ones then test, if everything works great.  Everything except 8?  Skip to the next paragraph.  If not touch the pink dots and (if I've got the right key as 8 ) it should type a 7, if that works solder any of the yellow dots to the pink one near the chip.  If it types something but not a 7 I've gone cross eyed - let me know what you get and I'll try again.

If the rest of the row works but 8 still doesn't solder the blue dots to reconnect it's diode.

[ameenkhan07]

Hey, thanks for replying!! ! Really appreciate the help 
Yes, you're correct, that point is 8 key switch.
So I connected the yellow dots, and the keys in the top row didn't respond. When I connect the pink dots, it triggers the entire column, ie. "7YHN".
If I touch yellow dot to bottom pink dot (C4), the entire column is triggered corresponding to the key in the top row which is pressed. Meaning if I connect yellow and bottom pink and press key 4, "4EDC" is pressed.

I was using this for reference, which I found in one another post here. If it's of help to you:

[suicidal_orange]

Nice - don't find many schematics for commercial boards!

As suspected there is a via on the yellow pin of key 8 connected to the blue trace going down to the via (pink dot) above C4, but that means the above should work.  Touching bottom pink to yellow is exactly the same as pressing a switch in the top row, so why does the whole column activate?  Unless you've somehow killed that row pin on the controller chip making it constantly live (or not) when it should be the other 4/5 of the time...

What happens if you short the bottom pink to the diode pin of a switch in another row?

[ameenkhan07]

When I touch the bottom pink (C4) to any diode in any row, the column corresponding to that switch activate.
For eg, D56 (switch "K"), like D26 (switch "9") activates the column "9IK,". Similarly connect C4 to D38 activates column "6TGB"

[yui]

The last thing i see you could try is to add a jumper to the via that goes to the mcu (replacing the track i colored in green with a jumper colored in pink) if that does not work maybe try changing the diode but i do not see how that would produce your problem here (an overheated diode most likely fails shorted), other than that i don't see anything you have not tried already...

[suicidal_orange]

How does QMK handle all these LEDs?  Between the firmware and the schematic I can see an IC connected to the RGB underglow and there appears to be a matrix for the in switch LEDs allowing them to be addressed individually, but no list of pins.

What I do see is three pins near the bottom left of the ATMega controller not connected to anything.  They could be 'borrowed' for the top row - if your soldering is good enough ameen?  The pins are pretty tiny...

[ameenkhan07]

Hey it works!
What @yui suggest is the same as @suicidal_orange's suggestion with the pink dots. @yui diagram made me aware of my mistake, I was connecting the switch to the diode just below it which lead to triggering of the entire column.
Now just have to figure out how to solder onto that teeny-tiny hole

[yui]

with loads of patience and a tiny iron tip and maybe thinner wire would help a lot

[suicidal_orange]

Oh no!  I looked and was sure I could see some wear from poking the correct hole so assumed you were doing it right.

You should be able to carefully scrape the black mask from the circle around the tiny hole to reveal gold, still wont be a huge target though.

[ameenkhan07]

Hey,
Thanks! Figured out a way 
Now off to the races!!!