How to Re-flow Solder Joint

[Mr.Thompson]

I have an ErgoDash. It has worked great for over 2 years, but now V key has become unreliable. Sometimes it doesn't work, other times it executes twice when I click it once.

I tried adjusting the debouncing interval to 4 and 5, but it's still not reliable.

Advice here on this forum was to reflow the solder joint, but I have no idea how to do that. I Googled for "keyboard solder switch pins" and it looks like it may be out of my league. Seems I must remove the bottom brown plexiglass "plate" from the keyboard and then re-solder the pins that come through from the switch to under the "base plate" of the keyboard.

Is that correct?

[Riverman]

Reflowing a solder joint just involves heating it up with a soldering iron until the solder melts and reflows itself.  The lead-free solder that's used these days takes quite a bit more heat to melt than the old leaded solder.

[zegonix]

also apply some flux otherwise you will most likely end up with a cold solder joint.

[kbd0]

As others said, just remelt the joint ideally adding flux-core solder (do you have solder? a soldering iron?)

It's also very possible the switch itself is failing

[zegonix]

are you using a qmk firmware? qmk calculates the debouncing window in milliseconds by default and 5 ms is the default value. (you can specify the debouncing window in cycles which is less deterministic and not recommended unless you know what you are doing..)
but assuming you specified the window in milliseconds, you actually decreased the debouncing time.. try a value of at least 8. unless you are into competitive gaming, a little delay won't hurt you. you can still lower the value if you notice keys not registering (if the debounce window is longer than your button press).

[Mr.Thompson]

I tried that now. Didn't help. I have now ordered a new keyboard.

Thank you.