Hard Drive + Freezer = ???

[Encryptor]

Has anyone ever tried putting a clicking / non-functioning hard drive into a freezer to get data off of it?  I've read that it works in some cases, so I'm trying it now.

I put the drive into a zip lock bag, put paper towels around that bag, and then put it all into a second bag.  I'm also freezing the enclosure in a bag too, because why not.

I had a backup of the data, but that drive just started clicking tonight, too.  They're both 1.5 TB Samsung drives.  Ugh.

[fossala]

I have heard it can work, but never done it myself.

[Encryptor]

I am wondering whether I should attempt to run the drive from ~within~ the freezer.  :flypig:

[slueth]

I had 2 tb samsung drive that failed and I lost all my data, it was still under warranty so I couldn't butcher it.

[Rajagra]

This sounds more like a fix for very old drives that used stepper motors to move the heads. They went out of alignment if they were low-level formatted at one temperature, and used later at a different temperature.

Having said that, it's worth a try. Be sure to double bag it in the freezer [ah you already said that.]  Maybe let it come back to room temperature before unbagging and connecting it, to avoid condensation on the platters. If that doesn't work refreeze it but this time use it while still cold.

[alaricljs]

Actually, I've never heard of using it on older drives.  However, I have used it on a number of occasions to pull data off a failing drive.   It's a bad idea to run the drive in the freezer because it will warm up and hit the dew point and then die miserably.  Cooling the enclosure may help as well.  This all depends on the failure mode being dependent on temperature.  If you notice that the drive works for a couple minutes then fails this is when you start freezing the drive to get the data off.

[stingrae]

As far as I know doesn't work at all on most hard drives that are new.

Also only worth trying if you are out of options i.e. your pc doesn't detect it at all via sata and your warranty is out.

I tried it, it didn't work. I moved on though I still miss all my lost data...backups are essential, just I am very lazy.

[mr_a500]

I've tried it and it worked. (...sort of) Before the freezer, I couldn't read it at all. After the freezer, it worked for a few seconds before my adapter blew out (traces burnt and popped right off the board!). It was a cheap $1 adapter, made in China, so it's possible it would have blown anyway.

When I got a new adapter, I found I could always read the drive at room temperature for a few minutes until it got warm and would stop working again. Now, after not being used for a few months, the drive seems to work for over an hour with no problem. Strange... very strange.

(This was an older 2005 2.5" IDE Samsung drive)

[alaricljs]

Also only worth trying if you are out of options i.e. your pc doesn't detect it at all via sata and your warranty is out.

Not true... as I mentioned, the only time this has a chance of working is when the failure of the drive is driven by temperature and comes on after the drive has been running for a brief period.  If your system can't detect the drive, freezing it is not going to change this.  Also freezing the drive will not void the warranty as long as you make efforts to avoid condensation.

[alaricljs]

Now, after not being used for a few months, the drive seems to work for over an hour with no problem. Strange... very strange.

Considering the time of year, is room temperature now lower than it was?  

[mr_a500]

Considering the time of year, is room temperature now lower than it was?  

Hey, I'm in Canada. Room temperature is always freezing.

[bavman]

Are you just trying to get rid of data so you can scrap the drive without having to worry about whats on the drive?
Why not just open it up and break the disks?

[alaricljs]

I'm sure she's not that dense.

[Encryptor]

As far as I know doesn't work at all on most hard drives that are new.

Also only worth trying if you are out of options i.e. your pc doesn't detect it at all via sata and your warranty is out.

I tried it, it didn't work. I moved on though I still miss all my lost data...backups are essential, just I am very lazy.

Yeah, its out of warranty and the data isn't essential, but I'm hoping I can pull some of it off before it craps out again.  I've also been looking into replacing the PCB, but apparently this doesn't work well with newer Samsung drives.  I'm about to pull the drive from the freezer now... keeping my fingers crossed...

[Encryptor]

It's a bad idea to run the drive in the freezer because it will warm up and hit the dew point and then die miserably.

This is a good point.  I had a coworker tell me that he worked at a data recovery place a few years ago and that they would run IDE cables into a freezer for the drives.  I'm not entirely sure I believe his story but if its true its interesting.  Why do data recovery places charge so much, anyway?  Like, $3000 for one drive, oh, ok.

[Wildcard]

I have some experience in this area...

The clicking noise is caused when the read head starts falling off the platter then fights to get back on the edge, I don't believe the freezing method solves this. If you do try cracking the drive open (in a ziplock bag to minimize dust) be careful with the read heads because they can scratch the platters if you force them on in any direction other then towards the center. You can buy small tool kits off of ebay for $4 which have bits to open the drive safely.

In other cases, the bearings start to lock up on the drive shaft or there's a short somewhere which I believe is where the freezing method comes into play. I've also heard (with the drive turned off of course) hitting the drive very very flat against a flat surface with moderate force can un-seize stuck bearings. But when they wear down, better get a new drive.

In my opinion, Hitachi makes some pretty good drives now, 2TB 7200RPM drives to be specific, (minus the old deathstar issues). I have 15 in one system running in a raid-z and several more elsewhere. However, Hitachi Global Storage was recently purchased by WD, so we'll see how it goes.

I read a very good article once by storagemojo I believe, where he talked to a data recovery service who stated that on a percentage, Hitachi drives were at the top (or in this case bottom) percentage of drives sent in to recover data from accidental damage or malfunction.

[Rajagra]

I've also heard (with the drive turned off of course) hitting the drive very very flat against a flat surface with moderate force can un-seize stuck bearings.

A safer way is to twist the drive snappily round while hand-holding it. Rotate around the axis of the drive shaft (basically spin like a frisbee.)You can even do this with the power on. As long as you aren't clumsy and rip the cables out. Start gently and only twist harder if you need to. When it starts spinning, gently put it down and it's ready to use. I've done this many times. Sometimes it even gets the drive working for a few more months, especially if you leave it powered on permanently.

If that doesn't work, it's time to start whacking the drive. :smile:

[Encryptor]

The freezing didn't work.  It worked for about 10 seconds but then started clicking again.  I tried fwacking the side of the drive with a rubber mallet and that also did not work.

Tomorrow I might try double boiling the HDD.

I believe I have a few Hitachis in my system.  I need to stop buying huge drives.  I end up setting up 300 gb partitions for Windows / Linux / Data and when a 1.5 TB drive dies its just a huge pain.

The last resort is cracking open the drive in the bag, thanks for the idea, RiffRaff.  I need to order the bit.  And if that doesn't work, I'll at least have the satisfaction of CRUNCHING THE PLATTERS TO DEATH with my bare hands.

[Wildcard]

A safer way is to twist the drive snappily round while hand-holding it. Rotate around the axis of the drive shaft (basically spin like a frisbee.)You can even do this with the power on. As long as you aren't clumsy and rip the cables out. Start gently and only twist harder if you need to. When it starts spinning, gently put it down and it's ready to use. I've done this many times. Sometimes it even gets the drive working for a few more months, especially if you leave it powered on permanently.

If that doesn't work, it's time to start whacking the drive. :smile:

Just to clarify, this procedure is used if the drive has completely locked up and isn't spinning at all (like the test you mentioned) if it doesn't feel like the platters are moving, give it a flat smack.

Encryptor, best bet. Look to see if there are any repair guides for your specific drive, worst case, I'd try to take the cover off (while in a plastic bag, ie. no dust) and try to get the head back on the drive carefully. Once that's done leave the cover off (still in the bag and get that data off ASAP.

I unfortunatly followed the same method you did previously, freezed a clicking drive, it was only until after I researched it that I found the reason for the clicking (read head problems) so focus on that.

[Wildcard]

The freezing didn't work.  It worked for about 10 seconds but then started clicking again.  I tried fwacking the side of the drive with a rubber mallet and that also did not work.

Tomorrow I might try double boiling the HDD.

I believe I have a few Hitachis in my system.  I need to stop buying huge drives.  I end up setting up 300 gb partitions for Windows / Linux / Data and when a 1.5 TB drive dies its just a huge pain.

The last resort is cracking open the drive in the bag, thanks for the idea, RiffRaff.  I need to order the bit.  And if that doesn't work, I'll at least have the satisfaction of CRUNCHING THE PLATTERS TO DEATH with my bare hands.

Also, nothing wrong with large drives. Just make sure to backup your backups as they say. Having redundancy is a good thing, because as we all know. S#!* happens. Also as far as silent data corruption goes, that's for another thread.