Hacking the switches on a Majestouch 2

[raspofabs]

I got a full size Majestouch recently after thinking that linear would be preferrable over the browns and chose the MX black version (mostly because that's the only linear Filco I can get in the UK) but I'm not happy with how tough it is on my fingers compared to the browns. I think that the keyboard would be perfect if only I could replace the springs with lighter ones.

My issue seems to be: how do I open the switches

I've tried to follow the video guides but I can't seem to get the little catches to release. It seems like the mounting plate is stopping the clips from unfastening, is that what's happening?

[esoomenona]

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[Appeac]

Yes, you will need to desolder the switches to open them if they are plate mounted.

[raspofabs]

Yes, I've tried to stick with the blacks, but I find that I'm missing keys when typing fast. It's a shame, because otherwise, it's a lovely feeling not having the little notch from the brown stem.

[IvanIvanovich]

If you're good with soldering you can change it, otherwise it is a lot of work to do for a common board that is available in other switch types. If you are going to go to the effort, might as well go the extra mile and sticker and lube the transplant switches too before resolder.
If I were you I might try trading first, though it might be difficult, or otherwise just sell it at a slight loss and get a different board with browns.

[Neo.X]

The black switch of Filco actually feels lighter than other boards, like 7G or Mionix 60.

[WhiteFireDragon]

Don't follow those videos that people just take off the switch straight from the plate. You could damage the switches because there is not enough room to take off the top housing. Proper way to do it is desolder all the switches from the PCB, then take off all the switches from the metal plate before you can switch springs or stems.

[shawn o]

Desolder each switch. There are two contacts on the back of the PCB per switch. Desolder, push out switch, insert new switch, and resolder. Takes about 1 minute per switch. You can do them in groups also and its a bit faster.

MJ1 is easier to desolder then MJ2. The MJ2s have an extra copper insert in each PCB hole that makes desoldering a bit more difficult.

Original solder is lead free so the melting point is very high.

[xyril]

The black switch of Filco actually feels lighter than other boards, like 7G or Mionix 60.

MEKA G1 feels much more lighter to me :S. seems every review also agrees it :>

[raspofabs]

Thanks for the replies. I think I'm going to sell and get a KBTalking Pure with reds.

[WhiteFireDragon]

Oh yeah, ever since my last reply, I forgot to link the video. Here is how to properly do it if you're still up for modding it yourself:

[bounce]

damn id give it a try on my 7G but id need to get everything, especially the desolder iron and a donor board with blues.
id maybe even switch the blue springs with my blacks.
but buying all this for a one time job seems not worth it where its gonna cost the same as a keyboard with blues :x for me

[raspofabs]

Well, here it is, waiting to find a home that will appreciate it.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160910417667

[bounce]

oh well i just opened up my G7 and decided i will try my luck with desoldering the switches and change them with blues
or just take the blue stems with black springs or something. just gotta look out for a cheap donor board with blues now.

/edit

damn i still cant post on the classified subforum, so no donor board anytime soon :<

[bounce]

I just managed to swap out the switches on my 7G and it looks fantastic.
just gotta resolder all the switches now.
Thanks a lot for the video, it helped me out quite a bit.