One difficulty is that there are no alu case designs for 104 boards. There are also no custom 104 PCBs that I am aware of, so whatever features you are looking for need to be available on a commercially available 104 keyboard (backlighting, media keys, programmability, macros....).
If you are willing to forgo an aluminum case, bpiphany is working towards custom programmable replacement controllers for keyboards that have their controllers on a daughterboard. This would cover Rosewill, Filco, and perhaps others.
The_Beast has had manufactured custom 1-off plates for smaller boards, so if provided with a file I'm sure could have a 104key plate produced. This would at least allow for easy spring/stem changes even if you weren't able to get a custom layout (requiring a PCB as well as plate). A Rosewill rebuilt by someone competent with these parts would be highly unlikely to suffer the USB issues some have complained of. This would be cheaper than a rebuilt Filco with much if not all of the quality.
Thanks for the responses! It helps to clarify in my own mind what the "perfect" 104-key board would look like for my purposes.
1. Heavy aluminum/steel case. Black anodized.
- When I read the LZ SE review by DanGWanG, that sounded like my dream set-up, except it's an 84-key layout. 10-11 pounds? Angled base? Yes, and yes please. (
http://dangwang.wordpress.com/2013/01/31/420-reviews-lz-84-se/)
2. Cherry MX Green switches, or Blues with the 62g heavier spring.
3. Illuminated (for gaming) - green LEDs.
4. Non-illuminated (for the office) side-printed or double-shot keycaps.
5. Detachable USB.
That about does it. I don't need macro keys, and although I bought one of the CM Storm Trigger boards with Greens, I'm not keen on either the red LED back-lighting or the rubberized coating on the case. Planning on selling or gifting that one when I get something closer to ideal.
Off-the-shelf options:
1. Full-size Ducky Shine 2, with green LEDs, white keycaps and black/white switches? Quite possibly. Waiting to see when these are available. Would still prefer heavier aluminum case.
2. Filco with Ghetto Greens? Has the side-printed caps as a dealer option.
3. Others...?
I think the easiest (i.e., fewest steps) route would be getting a PCB from a Ducky (illuminated) or a Filco (non-illum.), having someone solder in the switches of choice, see if I can get a steel plate made for rigidity, and figure out some type of custom case option.
Also sounds like I need to haunt the "Making Stuff" forum.
