Stripped hex screw! HELP!

[goobus]

So I was putting together my RF digilog case when I realized I did it wrong and tried taking it apart, but when trying to remove the screw I actually stripped it completely and it is not gripping anymore at all. How do I get it out?

I got some 2 part epoxy resin that's supposed to be alright with metals, could I just glue an Allen wrench onto it and take it apart that way?

Note: I don't have a drill or a saw or anything..

Thanks so much gh!

Here's a pic of the damage:

[SpAmRaY]

Could you take a pic? Might help with ideas.

[goobus]

Pic taken, added to OP. <3

[IPT]

try using a wide rubber band.

[ITzNybble]

you could get a dremel and file the flat edges back onto it then the screwdriver could grip it better

[goobus]

Would I slip the rubber band in between the cracks and try to get it under the screw?  Interesting idea...can't really imagine how that would help me exert enough torque to get the screw out though, can you elaborate more? I apologize for my newbness

I've looked into the dremel thing, that seems to be the most cost effective solution.  Would my epoxy idea work? I saw some guy on YouTube did that with a hex screw like this before, wondering if that would work in this case (haha pun)

[ITzNybble]

Would I slip the rubber band in between the cracks and try to get it under the screw?  Interesting idea...can't really imagine how that would help me exert enough torque to get the screw out though, can Yu elaborate more? I apologize for my newbness

I've looked into the dremel thing, that seems to be the most cost effective solution.  Would my epoxy idea work? I saw some guy on YouTube did that with a hex screw like this before, wondering if that would work in this case (haha pun)

Would I slip the rubber band in between the cracks and try to get it under the screw?  Interesting idea...can't really imagine how that would help me exert enough torque to get the screw out though, can Yu elaborate more? I apologize for my newbness

I've looked into the dremel thing, that seems to be the most cost effective solution.  Would my epoxy idea work? I saw some guy on YouTube did that with a hex screw like this before, wondering if that would work in this case (haha pun)

to use the rubber band you lay it on top of the screw, then push your screwderiver down on the ruber band and with pressure turn, the rubberband helps shape the screw to fit your driver.

[goobus]

Ooh, sounds interesting. Let me try that tomorrow, will keep you guys posted this is why I love this place.

[stancato9]

Would I slip the rubber band in between the cracks and try to get it under the screw?  Interesting idea...can't really imagine how that would help me exert enough torque to get the screw out though, can Yu elaborate more? I apologize for my newbness

I've looked into the dremel thing, that seems to be the most cost effective solution.  Would my epoxy idea work? I saw some guy on YouTube did that with a hex screw like this before, wondering if that would work in this case (haha pun)

Would I slip the rubber band in between the cracks and try to get it under the screw?  Interesting idea...can't really imagine how that would help me exert enough torque to get the screw out though, can Yu elaborate more? I apologize for my newbness

I've looked into the dremel thing, that seems to be the most cost effective solution.  Would my epoxy idea work? I saw some guy on YouTube did that with a hex screw like this before, wondering if that would work in this case (haha pun)

to use the rubber band you lay it on top of the screw, then push your screwderiver down on the ruber band and with pressure turn, the rubberband helps shape the screw to fit your driver.

I have used this method and it has saved me a few times. If the rubber band doesn't work try to use other things that will increase the size of the screwdriver / allen key. I have used saran wrap before as well.

[PointyFox]

Sometimes a larger Allen key will work.

[Melvang]

If the rubber band doesn't work then you will probably need to put a slot in the top and just use a flat head screw driver.  That would probably be the easiest next to the rubber band.  Although the epoxy and allen wrench might work.  When I was in the Navy the rescue hoist on out helo's had a cover that was held down with 6-32 thread screws that was tapped into the aluminum housing.  These holes were always getting stripped out.  The easy fix was just to fill the hole with 2 part epoxy and shove the screw in.  When the epoxy set (10 minutes) it was good as new.  If you were careful you could even unscrew it and put screw the bolt back in.  The biggest reason we went this route was because they wouldn't get us helicoils that small.

Sometimes a larger Allen key will work.

not very often in my experience though

[RabRhee]

I would agree with the suggestion that you cut a slot in the top and use a flatblade, although as a last resort you could get a set of stud extractors / broken bolt extractors, which is the proper technical way to get them out if all else fails. Here's a cheap set, there are better quality ones if you make a career out of wrecking bolts (like I do )

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-7576-Screw-Extractor-5-pc/dp/B003DN3FZ8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1384898859&sr=8-3&keywords=broken+screw+extractor

You need to drill a hole smaller than the broken bolt stem down the middle, then these things have reverse threads so you screw them into the hole until they get tight, and then unscrew the bolt. Pretty successful if the bolt isn't insanely hardened, and if you get the right size of bolt extractor

[ekw808]

I had the same problem and I tried the glue, it doesn't work, go with the screw extractor, it'll get it out instantly. Even if the epoxy is ok with metals I wouldn't want to test it on a 200$+ case, just get the 6$ solution.

[BliTzKiN]

I had this problem with my bike once, this is a possible way I see it working.

Unscrew all the other screws so that only the stripped one is left, then rotate that part of the case anti clockwise, if you keep spinning it could loosen up the bolt enough to where you will be able to remove it by hand. Do note that I did it on a bike though, so doing it on your case is not guaranteed. Just looks like a situation I was caught in a few weeks back, who knows, it might work

Heres the link to what I mean, hope it helps

[goobus]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Tried the rubber band tonight, didn't work let's see how the epoxy works, if that fails will have to buy a dremel

Already tried rotating but that doesn't work as the PCB and plate get in the way! I'm so worried about getting my RF stuck in there. On the bright side digilog is sending me new screws.

[MJ45]

There is a set called sock-out that is like a screw extractor but it is a tapered hex shape that is tapped in then a tap wrench is used on it to remove the stripped screw. I have had success with file down the next closest inch size larger to fit tightly even tap it in to remove a stripped socket head screw, good luck!!   

[tufty]

This will rather depend on the quality of the screw and the case, and how much you're willing to hammer on both, but:

You'll need a small punch, a hammer, and an electric screwdriver equipped with a hex bit of the correct size.  Do not try to do this with a "normal" allen key.

Use the hammer and  punch to bring the hex hole back into shape, by hammering over the "flowered" bits of the head, toward the hole.  Don't worry if it looks a bit ugly.

Take the driver bit, and force it into the hole.  You should need to force it, preferably by hammering.  If not, continue "reducing" the hole with the punch.  Once it's in, and /tight/, carefully attach the driver bit to the electric screwdriver, and, on maximum torque and *straight away* on full speed, unscrew the screw.

This works very well for "mechanical" parts (think corroded steel M5 hex bolts in aluminium blocks attached with threadlock and corrosion), but the hammering side of things may reduce its utility on keyboards.