Where to buy a KBT Pure?

[Its only worth]

Mechanicalkeyboards.com used to sell them, but it seems not anymore.

http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=109

[Puddsy]

They've been out of production for a while now IIRC

but there are always a few in the classifieds

[Oobly]

There are still a few available from Amazon  UK, but I suspect they're just the last few stocked ones. I managed to snag one, a Limited Edition. Sad if they're not makin more as it's my favourite 60% layout. Good for coding, too.

Found a Limited with MX Blues in the classifieds section: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48727.0

IIRC, Mashby was selling some Pure cases, maybe he also has some complete boards for sale. They pop up in classifieds now and then.

The Duck Eagle has the same layout, so that could be an option?

[ajx]

Duck eagle, what is it? any link?
About myself, i gave up to buy Pure, the only few Pure in stocks, comes with not the right backlit color or right switch i want.
I choose Pro over Pure.

[BucklingSpring]

They've been out of production for a while now IIRC

but there are always a few in the classifieds

^This :-)

[Oobly]

Duck eagle, what is it? any link?
About myself, i gave up to buy Pure, the only few Pure in stocks, comes with not the right backlit color or right switch i want.
I choose Pro over Pure.

http://duck0113.tistory.com/81

It's a custom board by Duck113. Fully programmable, aluminium case, backlit. Not sure when they'll become available or the price. Edit - apparently elton5354 will run a GB in May for the Viper and Eagle, cost is likely to be around 200 dollars: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55427.0

I bought a Pure with green backlight, but have desoldered all the LEDs and will be putting in white LEDs to replace them (when they arrive) At least it came with the switches I wanted (Browns). I prefer the layout of the Pure to the Pure Pro, especially the larger right shift and 1.5x modifiers.

[iisshaun]

Duck eagle, what is it? any link?
About myself, i gave up to buy Pure, the only few Pure in stocks, comes with not the right backlit color or right switch i want.
I choose Pro over Pure.

http://duck0113.tistory.com/81

It's a custom board by Duck113. Fully programmable, aluminium case, backlit. Not sure when they'll become available or the price. Edit - apparently elton5354 will run a GB in May for the Viper and Eagle, cost is likely to be around 200 dollars: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55427.0

I bought a Pure with green backlight, but have desoldered all the LEDs and will be putting in white LEDs to replace them (when they arrive) At least it came with the switches I wanted (Browns). I prefer the layout of the Pure to the Pure Pro, especially the larger right shift and 1.5x modifiers.

How easy is it to just replace the LEDs with white ones? I have a Pure Pro in the mail, but I could only get it with blue LEDs and I want white ones if I use the LEDs at all. Wouldn't I need new resistors etc?

[Oobly]

Duck eagle, what is it? any link?
About myself, i gave up to buy Pure, the only few Pure in stocks, comes with not the right backlit color or right switch i want.
I choose Pro over Pure.

http://duck0113.tistory.com/81

It's a custom board by Duck113. Fully programmable, aluminium case, backlit. Not sure when they'll become available or the price. Edit - apparently elton5354 will run a GB in May for the Viper and Eagle, cost is likely to be around 200 dollars: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55427.0

I bought a Pure with green backlight, but have desoldered all the LEDs and will be putting in white LEDs to replace them (when they arrive) At least it came with the switches I wanted (Browns). I prefer the layout of the Pure to the Pure Pro, especially the larger right shift and 1.5x modifiers.

How easy is it to just replace the LEDs with white ones? I have a Pure Pro in the mail, but I could only get it with blue LEDs and I want white ones if I use the LEDs at all. Wouldn't I need new resistors etc?

Blue, white and high brightness green LED's often have similar voltage drop and current characteristics, so quite often you can just swap them. Orange, red, yellow and low brightness green LED's often have lower voltage drops. As long there actually are resistors in the circuit it should be safe enough to swap them out. If they're too bright or dim you can replace the resistors to taste.

I'm using some low current (10mA IIRC) white LED's to replace the greens in my Pure.

You can calculate the current going through the resistor and LED by using V=IR, where V is voltage (in Volts), I is current (in Amperes) and R is resistance (in Ohms). For instance, if the original LED's had 3.2v drop and used 270 Ohm resistors:

V_resistor = V_total - V_LED = 5v - 3.2v = 1.8v

V_resistor = I_resistor*R_resistor

so I_resistor = V_resistor / R_resistor = 1.8 / 270 = 0.00666' A = 6.7mA

and I_LED = I_resistor, so I_LED = 6.7mA


If you use a new LED with only 3.0v drop, but the same resistor, the current will rise:

V_resistor = V_total - V_LED = 5v - 3.0v = 2.0v

I_resistor = 2.0 / 270 = 0.00740' A = 7.4mA


It's not a big difference and in keyboards it's rare that the LED's are given anywhere near their max current anyway, so it's mostly a matter of adjusting the resistors if the LED's are too bright or dim for you. White LED's most often have the highest voltage drop AND the highest current rating and therefore it's quite safe to switch TO white LED's.

[sdiearly]

You can wait a while,
KBT host "奕之華" will provide pure replica later~
Here is the link:
http://kbtalking.cool3c.com/article/78601

[iisshaun]

Duck eagle, what is it? any link?
About myself, i gave up to buy Pure, the only few Pure in stocks, comes with not the right backlit color or right switch i want.
I choose Pro over Pure.

http://duck0113.tistory.com/81

It's a custom board by Duck113. Fully programmable, aluminium case, backlit. Not sure when they'll become available or the price. Edit - apparently elton5354 will run a GB in May for the Viper and Eagle, cost is likely to be around 200 dollars: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55427.0

I bought a Pure with green backlight, but have desoldered all the LEDs and will be putting in white LEDs to replace them (when they arrive) At least it came with the switches I wanted (Browns). I prefer the layout of the Pure to the Pure Pro, especially the larger right shift and 1.5x modifiers.

How easy is it to just replace the LEDs with white ones? I have a Pure Pro in the mail, but I could only get it with blue LEDs and I want white ones if I use the LEDs at all. Wouldn't I need new resistors etc?

Blue, white and high brightness green LED's often have similar voltage drop and current characteristics, so quite often you can just swap them. Orange, red, yellow and low brightness green LED's often have lower voltage drops. As long there actually are resistors in the circuit it should be safe enough to swap them out. If they're too bright or dim you can replace the resistors to taste.

I'm using some low current (10mA IIRC) white LED's to replace the greens in my Pure.

You can calculate the current going through the resistor and LED by using V=IR, where V is voltage (in Volts), I is current (in Amperes) and R is resistance (in Ohms). For instance, if the original LED's had 3.2v drop and used 270 Ohm resistors:

V_resistor = V_total - V_LED = 5v - 3.2v = 1.8v

V_resistor = I_resistor*R_resistor

so I_resistor = V_resistor / R_resistor = 1.8 / 270 = 0.00666' A = 6.7mA

and I_LED = I_resistor, so I_LED = 6.7mA


If you use a new LED with only 3.0v drop, but the same resistor, the current will rise:

V_resistor = V_total - V_LED = 5v - 3.0v = 2.0v

I_resistor = 2.0 / 270 = 0.00740' A = 7.4mA


It's not a big difference and in keyboards it's rare that the LED's are given anywhere near their max current anyway, so it's mostly a matter of adjusting the resistors if the LED's are too bright or dim for you. White LED's most often have the highest voltage drop AND the highest current rating and therefore it's quite safe to switch TO white LED's.

Ah I see, thanks for the reply. I only want dim white LEDs too, so I guess it shouldn't be much of a problem. The Pure Pro has 7 brightness steps anyway, so if it's too bright I can turn them down. It's just that I keep my monitors at 0% brightness, so I don't want a sun beaming at the bottom of my sight from the keyboard.

Also, how tidy does it look in the end? Changing resistors would be another story, but if it's just de-soldering and then soldering the new LEDs, it should look relatively clean right?

[Oobly]

...
Also, how tidy does it look in the end? Changing resistors would be another story, but if it's just de-soldering and then soldering the new LEDs, it should look relatively clean right?

All depends how well you do the soldering, but it can look just as good as before the swap if you're good. If you're not, it should still look decent since it's just the LED pads that you need to touch with the iron.

[iisshaun]

All depends how well you do the soldering, but it can look just as good as before the swap if you're good. If you're not, it should still look decent since it's just the LED pads that you need to touch with the iron.

Yeah depends on the person doing it of course, but yeah, not a tough job. Will something like this do? http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-3mm-12000mcd-Super-Bright-Light-Bulb-White-Led-Lamp-New-Free-Resistor-/181352247215?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a396fafaf Or should I wait for the board to arrive and check out the existing LEDs and resistors before finding the new LEDs?

Cheers for the help too btw, I derailed the thread a bit though

[Oobly]

All depends how well you do the soldering, but it can look just as good as before the swap if you're good. If you're not, it should still look decent since it's just the LED pads that you need to touch with the iron.

Yeah depends on the person doing it of course, but yeah, not a tough job. Will something like this do? http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-3mm-12000mcd-Super-Bright-Light-Bulb-White-Led-Lamp-New-Free-Resistor-/181352247215?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a396fafaf Or should I wait for the board to arrive and check out the existing LEDs and resistors before finding the new LEDs?

Cheers for the help too btw, I derailed the thread a bit though

There are only 2 types of LED's that really work well in Cherry switches, 2x3x4 rectangular flat (without shoulder) and 3mm (without flange). The ones you linked to have flanges and won't fit.

Something like this: http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/100pcs-2x3x4mm-Rectangle-White-Water-Clear-LED-Light-Leds-/320999089508?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4abd096564

The flat LED's are easier to find than the flangeless 3mm round ones.



To the OP: Looks like Feng still has a few Pures with red switches in stock! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pure-60-Programmable-Mechanical-Keyboard-Red-MX-Switch-/331057414849?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d148f42c1

[Razor Lotus]

got mine off amazon while back

[ajx]

got mine off amazon while back

Feng's Pure, non backlit version, isn't it?
As far as i know, putting LEDS into non backlit keycaps, it wont light such as backlit keyboard normally does
It will make most likely a glow effect on these keycaps

[iisshaun]

There are only 2 types of LED's that really work well in Cherry switches, 2x3x4 rectangular flat (without shoulder) and 3mm (without flange). The ones you linked to have flanges and won't fit.

Something like this: http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/100pcs-2x3x4mm-Rectangle-White-Water-Clear-LED-Light-Leds-/320999089508?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4abd096564

The flat LED's are easier to find than the flangeless 3mm round ones.

Awesome, I'll pick up some of those and give it a go. Cheers again.