So I'm about to get a new board...

[esphorizon039]

Had a round of experience with almost all popular switches on the market today and I've decided to get a MX brown board to bring to work everyday.
I have the filco tenkey pad so this board is just gonna be a tenkeyless which is short enough to fit in most of my bags.
Now the problem comes down to the cable choice.

For more portability, I see the trend now that most of the boards adopt detachable USB design
However I also read that such design combine with frequent plug/unplug can cause the port to depreciate itself faster
It is quite possible that I would not only bring it out from home to work, but also travel to different locations to do on-site jobs with it.
So I foresee quite some packing ups/setups and worry about wether should I go with the detachable design.
 
Is there anyone who share the same situation like me? bringing mech keyboard to office and places?
How do you find about detachable USB design on your keyboard?
 

[rowdy]

Welcome to Geekhack!

If you're looking for a Filco keyboard, they have non-detachable cables, so you'd be safe there.

I tend to keep the cables plugged into my keyboards, and disconnect the other end from the computer.  That way I keep the right cable with the right keyboard, and don't put any strain on the mini-USB socket in the keyboard.

TBH on most of the keyboards the mini USB socket is hidden in a recess under the keyboard, and you have to angle the cable to plug it in.  No wonder they work their way loose!

The two exceptions are Model M (which is built like a brick), and HHKB (where the mini USB socket is flush with the rear of the keyboard).

[Oobly]

I take my KBT Pure with MX Browns to the office every day. Still using the original box. I leave a cable plugged into the computer at work and just unplug the keyboard end when I leave. Makes packing up simpler and quicker. Just put the board in the box and go.

I think they should have used Micro USB instead of Mini USB, because Micro is designed for a lot more insertions / removals, but in the end the Mini plug should last if you look after it (don't pull the cable at strange angles, etc).

If you're concerned about it, get a Filco TKL (fixed cable) or a keyboard with the socket flush at the back of the board (almost all 60% boards like HHKB Pro, Pure, Pure Pro, Poker 2, Filco Minila, etc, and some TKLs like custom Korean ones). Most TKLs have the cable socket in a bad position for frequent removal (Ducky, Coolermaster, etc.). The Matias Mini Quiet Pro uses a Micro USB socket flush with the back, but it uses Alps style quiet click switches and is not standard TKL layout.

[Melvang]

Welcome to Geekhack!

If you're looking for a Filco keyboard, they have non-detachable cables, so you'd be safe there.

I tend to keep the cables plugged into my keyboards, and disconnect the other end from the computer.  That way I keep the right cable with the right keyboard, and don't put any strain on the mini-USB socket in the keyboard.

TBH on most of the keyboards the mini USB socket is hidden in a recess under the keyboard, and you have to angle the cable to plug it in.  No wonder they work their way loose!

The two exceptions are Model M (which is built like a brick), and HHKB (where the mini USB socket is flush with the rear of the keyboard).

Filco with an SDL socket for detachable cable, hmmmmm.

My suggestion would be either a non-detachable cable and just use a USB extension cord to connect to the PC (eliminates having to dig around to plug and unplug all the time), or do a detachable mod but have the plug on a short (3"-4") pig tail so there isn't any extra stresses being introduced to the plug.

[esphorizon039]

Welcome to Geekhack!

If you're looking for a Filco keyboard, they have non-detachable cables, so you'd be safe there.

I tend to keep the cables plugged into my keyboards, and disconnect the other end from the computer.  That way I keep the right cable with the right keyboard, and don't put any strain on the mini-USB socket in the keyboard.

TBH on most of the keyboards the mini USB socket is hidden in a recess under the keyboard, and you have to angle the cable to plug it in.  No wonder they work their way loose!

The two exceptions are Model M (which is built like a brick), and HHKB (where the mini USB socket is flush with the rear of the keyboard).

Thanks for the welcome. Yeah I just registered and didn't have lots of time to put up personal profile. So far what I own is: a 3-year-old 7G, Filco Mj2 MX black camo and normal version MX blue; Filco ninja of switches in MX red, brown, black, for one each. I mean, I got plenty of them hardwired filco here to use at home or anywhere. It is just that now I need something for me on the go. HHKB seems a new direction to consider for me as someone else in this thread mentioned about different design in the socket parts and I think I would research into that for now.

[esphorizon039]

I take my KBT Pure with MX Browns to the office every day. Still using the original box. I leave a cable plugged into the computer at work and just unplug the keyboard end when I leave. Makes packing up simpler and quicker. Just put the board in the box and go.

I think they should have used Micro USB instead of Mini USB, because Micro is designed for a lot more insertions / removals, but in the end the Mini plug should last if you look after it (don't pull the cable at strange angles, etc).

If you're concerned about it, get a Filco TKL (fixed cable) or a keyboard with the socket flush at the back of the board (almost all 60% boards like HHKB Pro, Pure, Pure Pro, Poker 2, Filco Minila, etc, and some TKLs like custom Korean ones). Most TKLs have the cable socket in a bad position for frequent removal (Ducky, Coolermaster, etc.). The Matias Mini Quiet Pro uses a Micro USB socket flush with the back, but it uses Alps style quiet click switches and is not standard TKL layout.

Thanks for the info, I'll look into HHKB models and compare the deals I can have here locally first. In fact I almost went to purchase the Ducky due to their reputation of "pretty much a tad lesser filco with lighting and features" as I own quite a lots of filcos and have confidence in the standard that they would generally present to consumers.
What you mentioned is exactly my plan: Get a few USB cables, each at home and office, then one on the go. So I can just sorta "deploy" immediately at most of places. But according to the info I got so far, it seems most of the standard TKL boards contains trade offs(hardwired cables vs longevity of connectors)and I might have to expand the search and consider alternatives such as 60% percent and mini layouts now.

[Puddsy]

You've all ignored the KUL!

The KUL ES-87 is better than a Filco, hands down, no question.

The USB port seems to be soldered onto the board solidly, unlike the QFR (the USB port on my MX black QFR is failing) or the RK9K (plagued with USB issues for the first year of it's life), and considering this board has a 2 year warranty (it does, I checked) you shouldn't have to worry about it breaking for a while.

and the KUL comes in clears

[esphorizon039]

Welcome to Geekhack!

If you're looking for a Filco keyboard, they have non-detachable cables, so you'd be safe there.

I tend to keep the cables plugged into my keyboards, and disconnect the other end from the computer.  That way I keep the right cable with the right keyboard, and don't put any strain on the mini-USB socket in the keyboard.

TBH on most of the keyboards the mini USB socket is hidden in a recess under the keyboard, and you have to angle the cable to plug it in.  No wonder they work their way loose!

The two exceptions are Model M (which is built like a brick), and HHKB (where the mini USB socket is flush with the rear of the keyboard).

Filco with an SDL socket for detachable cable, hmmmmm.

My suggestion would be either a non-detachable cable and just use a USB extension cord to connect to the PC (eliminates having to dig around to plug and unplug all the time), or do a detachable mod but have the plug on a short (3"-4") pig tail so there isn't any extra stresses being introduced to the plug.

I'm actually pretty reluctant to mod into the inside part of my keyboards due to the lack of confidence in myself.   At least not until the warranty has expired. If it is gonna be a filco then I might just take it the way it is and squeeze the box containning the keyboard into my backpack for work everyday, and which is, also the reason that I'm going to look into HHKB models.
Thanks for the heads up though. Still a good solution.

[Puddsy]

Actually, a detachable cable mod for a Filco is pretty much impossible to screw up.

There's no soldering involved, it's just unplugging one thing and plugging in another thing.

[esphorizon039]

Actually, a detachable cable mod for a Filco is pretty much impossible to screw up.

There's no soldering involved, it's just unplugging one thing and plugging in another thing.

That board actually looks really tempting.
I adopted using mech keyboards with MX black switch and my fingers really got used to 60g++ actuation force.
I used to feel brown being so light and the bump feeling is not as significant until I tried clear switch samples and believe them to be the ideal ones for me.(Brown with much more significant "bump" at actuation)
But unfortunately I cant seem to find any information regarding what you mentioned of USB ports being soldered onto the board(I googled it and looked closely on elitekeyboards.com and KUL's official site.)
Also, this seems a pretty new board as it indicated its availability just in june this year according to its own webpage so there seems not  much info available around for me to evaluate.
And one more thing is that if the port is completely soldered onto the PCB then it would become even more costly,if, through lots of plug/unplug the connectors go out of shape. That way I'm literally left only with the option to RMA it back and would be days or even weeks unable to use it.
Last but not least I'm not living in the US so this would have to be an online deal. I don't really know how much the difference in quality would justify all the troubes that I would go through if I really have to RMA it or something...

Also regarding to modding part. I'm just reluctant to open up the board. It is not that I can't mod it or would definitely screw up 100%. I'm just leaving it a last option to mod it.

[Oobly]

You've all ignored the KUL!

The KUL ES-87 is better than a Filco, hands down, no question.

The USB port seems to be soldered onto the board solidly, unlike the QFR (the USB port on my MX black QFR is failing) or the RK9K (plagued with USB issues for the first year of it's life), and considering this board has a 2 year warranty (it does, I checked) you shouldn't have to worry about it breaking for a while.

and the KUL comes in clears

Same problem as the Ducky, the socket is in an awkward place and forces you to insert the Mini USB at an angle. Clears are awesome, though...

Detachable cable mod on Filco (or adding one to the KUL) may be the way to go if the OP has some level of comfort with modding and really wants TKL rather than 60%. Otherwise a Poker 2 may be the ticket.

[esphorizon039]

Actually, a detachable cable mod for a Filco is pretty much impossible to screw up.

There's no soldering involved, it's just unplugging one thing and plugging in another thing.

Actually I gotta thank you though. After that reply I went and googled more. Found a review on Geekhack and I think maybe I should pull the trigger on that KUL. thought the only downside of it being cherry stablilizers as I got so used to all the costar stabilizers from filco. But thanks anyway.

[esphorizon039]

Actually, a detachable cable mod for a Filco is pretty much impossible to screw up.

There's no soldering involved, it's just unplugging one thing and plugging in another thing.

Actually I gotta thank you though. After that reply I went and googled more. Found a review on Geekhack and I think maybe I should pull the trigger on that KUL. thought the only downside of it being cherry stablilizers as I got so used to all the costar stabilizers from filco. But thanks anyway.

and EK does not ship to other regions...KUL has not established resellers in HK yet. Amazon does not carry the clear version.
Totally no stock for me so guess I'll have to skip this.

[Puddsy]

Oh, I didn't know you were in HK

Take a look at the Leopold 750R or the older 700R

It's pretty much the staple keyboard for the Korean SC2 scene.

[esphorizon039]

Oh, I didn't know you were in HK

Take a look at the Leopold 750R or the older 700R

It's pretty much the staple keyboard for the Korean SC2 scene.

Actually I'm in Sinagpore. Just that when I was finding a distributor in asia on the KUL site they mentioned HK. But amazon only carries the other two switches except clear so I'm skipping it.
Maybe have to waited it out since this is a new brand.
As of singapore, once again not many stores carry leopold except those in topre switches. So I would pretty much resolve to online sales again. But still thanks for the heads up.

Anyway, I do catch SPL and GSL whenever possible also laddering on KR server though. I know about the pros and their filcos and leopolds.