Flat (ish) keys. But I can't really stand blanks, so your mileage may vary.
I just move the keys around and deal with the lumpiness. Unless you've got SA profile caps it's not that bad. But Cherry profile are so low anyway that I barely notice. Except for the SA 1.5 keys on the sides that trap my fingers. But that's lumpier than you'd normally have to deal with.
Initially, when I taught myself dvorak, I didn't move anything. Again, wrong legends that are consistent are better than no legends. So I printed out a .jpeg of the layout and set it next to my monitor, and stared at that (instead of my keycaps) to type things.
Been a couple of decades now, and I'm pretty pleased that I made the switch.