Modding a TG3 BL82 (Deck 82)?

[tuan2195]

So I just got this keyboard (non touchpad version) for $30 shipped as a cheap way to test out MX Blacks. Turn out I don't like it so much (I'm  a clicky kinda guy) but I actually like the layout and footprint of this board. So I'm thinking of keeping it to mod the **** out of it. So far I have the following ideas:

1. Switch the MX Black to MX Blue switches (my favorite). I have a guy who's trading me some of his MX Blues stems and springs for my MX Blacks so cost should not be an issue. How easy is it to do this, considering that the TG3 is a plate mounted board?
2. Switch the LED to some white LEDs. Should be cheap (I got 100 for $3) but how easy is it to do this? I know that the red LED has lower voltage drop than the white LED (1.8V vs. 3.3V in this case), so do I need to open the board up and replace every single 150o resistors in there with 80o resistors? Or is there a group of resistor I can quickly alter to bring up the voltage across the LEDs? Deck is kind enough to provide the users with the schematics but I'm not the best at understanding these.
3. Repaint the plate from black to white for more even backlight. What kind of paint should I use? Or should I just design a new plate and cut it from acrylic?
4. Blank keycaps. There's no keycap sets on the market that will fit this board (I would be happy to be proven wrong) so is there anyway for me to get blank keycaps on this board? Plastidipping or repainting the caps seems like a way but the caps are doubleshot PBT which is not something you come across everyday.
4. Convert the PS2 interface to USB. This should not be too hard but I'm looking for a way to do this passively (I don't need #KRO on this board, it's mainly for coding). Worst case I would need to buy a blue cube and mount it inside the case but I'd rather not waste another $10.
4. Build a custom alluminum case. Alright, this is way over my head but I do know some people who have CNC machines so MAYBE it can be done. The question is: where do I start?

If you guys can help me with some of the questions above it would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise feel free to leave your thoughts, comments, etc. Thanks! When I eventually get to modding this, I will update this thread with photos and stuffs.

[Arcanius]

Can't help with all of those, but will contribute what I can.

1. You'll have to desolder each switch and LED, change the stems and springs, and resolder the switches and LEDs.
2. You'll have the LEDs out anyways, but you might have to change quite a few resistors. There isn't any way to put in 3.7V LEDs stock and have them be illuminated.
3. Definitely repaint. An acrylic plate might not be strong enough. Somebody correct me if/when I'm wrong.
4. No idea.
4. No idea. A passive adapter might work, but it might not. The TG3 is offered in USB and PS/2 models, but I'm not sure if they do it via a simple wiring change, a controller firmware change, or an internal adapter a la the Kinesis.
4. I'll leave this to the experts. I imagine you might want to start with a shape and a bracket and/or holes to mount the plate securely. Start by opening up your own case and seeing how everything is mounted; it might give you some insight into how the whole thing functions.

EDIT: It seems that you'll need a blue cube for the PS/2-USB adaptation.

[tuan2195]

Thanks for the thoughts! Is there no way that I can remove the switch without removing the LEDs? Since my LEDs probably won't be here for another month or so (I cheap out and ordered it from China lol)

Regarding the connector, I opened it up and looked at the PS2 daughterboard. The PCB says "TG3 USB/PS2" or something like that, but the chip says something something PS2. I suspect that they reuse the same PCB but with a different controller. I ordered a $1 generic PS2-USB adapter from ebay, I'll see if it works when it gets here since I don't have a breadboard with USB socket to hook it up to a PC.

As an additional thought, I am considering making the cable detachable using microUSB (i.e. Android phone plug) since these are currently way more popular than miniUSB. Is there a reason or advantage to using miniUSB instead of microUSB?

I'll leave the case project to a later date, once I have finished all the easier mods I'll get back to it.

[Arcanius]

Were the switches PCB-mounted, you could just pop the tops off the switches, but with plate-mounted with LEDs, you have no choice. I believe that you can resolder without the LEDs for a temporary solution.

Good luck with the passive USB adaptation. Might the daughterboard have a resistor labelled "remove for USB" like the Deck Legend does? Just a shot in the dark.

The advantages to miniUSB are the durability of the actual connector and plug. MicroUSB is a bit fragile; the metal on the connector is thin, the connector tends to wobble and might not contact properly, and the little clips that hold in the connector don't last very long. I'd recommend paying a couple of extra bucks for the miniUSB. MiniUSB cables tend to be beefier too.

[Charger]

I like and hate the layout of the keyboard myself. My main keyboard was made from the plate, switches and caps for a tg3 data911 keyboard one of the ones with the touch pad. I love the overall size of it but i don't like the original layout of odd cap sizes since it would cost a decent amount to get new keycaps for it.

1. you will need to desolder the leds and the switches to change out the stems
3. I just used what ever spray paint i had at the time lol
4.you may be able to assemble the caps needed by ordering dsa profile caps from pimpmykeyboard.com it would be hard to find caps in different profiles because of the odd sizes in different rows
6. Since i had to cut my plate down to something i could use i made my own case for it as well

http://imgur.com/a/Nf5re
 

[tuan2195]

This is awesome! Do you mind telling me how you got that plate cut? (i.e. how did you design it etc?) I am thinking of making something like the infinity KB where the switches are mounted to the plate which is a stand by itself. I'm not gonna make a whole alluminum case block like that, I want it to be light enough to carry around.

The switches and LED won't be here until next week at least. When they're here I guess I'll begin my Black to Blue conversion first.

I think I'll give up on the idea of buying new keycaps lol. These caps are actually growing on me. Is there a way I can paint/dip them?

[Charger]

This is awesome! Do you mind telling me how you got that plate cut? (i.e. how did you design it etc?) I am thinking of making something like the infinity KB where the switches are mounted to the plate which is a stand by itself. I'm not gonna make a whole alluminum case block like that, I want it to be light enough to carry around.

The switches and LED won't be here until next week at least. When they're here I guess I'll begin my Black to Blue conversion first.

I think I'll give up on the idea of buying new keycaps lol. These caps are actually growing on me. Is there a way I can paint/dip them?

I didn't have one made though you could use swill's tool to make a plate design file and have someone cut it out for you. What i did was take an angle grinder to cut the plate down to what i wanted so it was just a flat plate. If you are talking about for the numpad i cut that out by hand using a jewelers saw and files and i just laid it out by hand on the metal.

here is a link to swill's  thread for his tool if you want to look at that https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=65189.0

[tuan2195]

Oh Ok. That mean in this pic (http://i.imgur.com/UC1j9zB.jpg) what you did is you cut the plate to size and then attached it to the case, am I correct? I want to do something similar with mine. How did you make the frame that you attached it into?

[Charger]

Oh Ok. That mean in this pic (http://i.imgur.com/UC1j9zB.jpg) what you did is you cut the plate to size and then attached it to the case, am I correct? I want to do something similar with mine. How did you make the frame that you attached it into?

Oh for that I used a jig saw to cut a hole in a piece of aluminum so the switches would clear when setting the plate on it and i just drilled small holes in the aluminum so i could just thread the screws into it. I then bent the aluminum with a sheet metal brake so that it would hold the keyboard at a slight angle. I had already cut the plate so it was just a flat piece of metal and drilled holes in it.

[tuan2195]

Makes a lot of sense! Thank you. Now to find someone who has all those tools...

[MassiveAggresive]

I'm curious to know if you swapped the red LEDs for the white ones and if so, how you did it. I was going to do the same but I didn't know about the voltage difference.