alps switch desoldering question

[Special K]

I just disassembled an ABS M1 (uses Filco OEM case and black ALPS SKBM switches) and I see that the PCB is attached to a metal plate.  Do I need to remove the PCB from the metal plate before I can desolder the ALPS switches and remove them from the board?

[CPTBadAss]

I usually do that. My order is:

1) Desolder the switches
2) Lift the PCB off
3) Push the switches out of the plate
4) Put new switches on to the plate
5) Fit PCB back into place
6) Solder switches

[Kola93]

I usually do that. My order is:

1) Desolder the switches
2) Lift the PCB off
3) Push the switches out of the plate
4) Put new switches on to the plate
5) Fit PCB back into place
6) Solder switches

That is really great advice. Thank you.

I am now prepared to help my brother desolder some ALPS.

[Melvang]

Fair warning, every Alps board I have desoldered has had pins folded over.  Not sure why that is, bit it is what it is.  The best way I have found is to use a very small straight slot screwdriver and pry up on the pin with a soldering iron on it.  You will probably break a pin or two during the process.  Don't worry to much so long as you still have a pin sticking out of the switch.  Just make sure you get solder between the remains of the pin and the pad on the pcb.  If it has played through holes because it is a two sided board, this process is a bit easier.

[chyros]

Fair warning, every Alps board I have desoldered has had pins folded over.  Not sure why that is, bit it is what it is.  The best way I have found is to use a very small straight slot screwdriver and pry up on the pin with a soldering iron on it.  You will probably break a pin or two during the process.  Don't worry to much so long as you still have a pin sticking out of the switch.  Just make sure you get solder between the remains of the pin and the pad on the pcb.  If it has played through holes because it is a two sided board, this process is a bit easier.

Manufacturers fold a few pins over to hold the PCB in place, from what I understood. Generally they only fold over a few, though. I've seen it on Cherries as well. On the Dell AT101W it's a real problem though because the assemblers at Silitek somehow found it necessary to fld ALL the pins over Oo .

[fohat.digs]

On the Dell AT101W it's a real problem though because the assemblers at Silitek somehow found it necessary to fold ALL the pins over.

Sometimes it seems that way. Half a dozen, distributed evenly, would be fine.

I usually solder about 3 along top and bottom rows, and a couple near the middle, while holding everything tight together. Then the rest are sure to be OK. On most, the switches are the only thing holding the layers of the sandwich together.

But unfortunately (or not) on some boards, such as the Northgates, there are about 3-4 soldered screws still holding the plates together, even after all the switches are off, and they look like they were never intended to be removed.

[Magna224]

Thats interesting to know about the Northgates. So you think it would be a bit of a challenge to get the PCB and plate apart?

[Bucake]

!!

i didn't actually know this was a thing. i was shocked when i opened up a zenith 100-1886 and saw that almost all pins are folded
i will certainly try not to break any of them. thanks for the tip @Melvang!

[fohat.digs]

Thats interesting to know about the Northgates. So you think it would be a bit of a challenge to get the PCB and plate apart?

If you figure out how to do it, let us know.

Sanding and painting from the top side is not too bad.

[sean]

On my Northgate and my v60 MTS some were folded while others weren't. So the way I went about removing the switches was by desoldering the switches one row at a time. I made sure the pins are straight, or straight enough where it won't be a problem removing them. Then I took pliers (If you want your switches in 100% cosmetic condition you probably don't want to do this) and pulled them out one by one. I'd then move onto the next row until they were all desoldered and removed.

It definitely wasn't difficult but it took a longer amount of time than usual.

[chyros]

!!

i didn't actually know this was a thing. i was shocked when i opened up a zenith 100-1886 and saw that almost all pins are folded
i will certainly try not to break any of them. thanks for the tip @Melvang!

Noooo don't kill such a nice board D: .

[fohat.digs]

Noooo don't kill such a nice board.

I used to work with a reptile enthusiast who referred to Chihuahuas as "snake food"

[Bucake]

i didn't actually know this was a thing. i was shocked when i opened up a zenith 100-1886 and saw that almost all pins are folded
i will certainly try not to break any of them. thanks for the tip @Melvang!

Noooo don't kill such a nice board D: .

i don't even want to open it up, but the keyboard isn't working properly :/
i noticed there's a huge amount of dust in-between the PCB and the plate, so i want to properly clean it to make sure that can't cause any issues.
there's also one bad switch (right shift is screwed - i think it's the spring), so i'd have to de-solder at least that one.

maybe the converter i'm using it with is the problem, but i don't have a system with an XT port to test the keyboard with..
i just want to fix the board, not harvest the switches. ( originally that was the plan, though. but i had no idea the keyboard was this nice when i purchased it )

[chyros]

Noooo don't kill such a nice board.

I used to work with a reptile enthusiast who referred to Chihuahuas as "snake food"

Doesn't seem very efficient to feed them dogs as small as that Oo .

That said, as much as I like dogs, I can't stand the small breeds. They're just dressed-up rats that bark IMO. Give me our good old shepsky any day (see what the snake makes of that xD) .

i didn't actually know this was a thing. i was shocked when i opened up a zenith 100-1886 and saw that almost all pins are folded
i will certainly try not to break any of them. thanks for the tip @Melvang!

Noooo don't kill such a nice board D: .

i don't even want to open it up, but the keyboard isn't working properly :/
i noticed there's a huge amount of dust in-between the PCB and the plate, so i want to properly clean it to make sure that can't cause any issues.
there's also one bad switch (right shift is screwed - i think it's the spring), so i'd have to de-solder at least that one.

maybe the converter i'm using it with is the problem, but i don't have a system with an XT port to test the keyboard with..
i just want to fix the board, not harvest the switches. ( originally that was the plan, though. but i had no idea the keyboard was this nice when i purchased it )

You'll need a proper active converter to get it working. Orihalcon's should work. It's expensive, but the best money can buy - and it converts just about all 5-pin protocols out there, not just XT and AT.