Gateron Greens

[punksinatra]

Hi,

I am looking at getting Gateron Green but cannot find much information about it specially the difference with Cherry MX Greens.

Maybe someone who have used them can provide some feedback and if they are worth it or go straight with MX Greens.

Thanks

[Jokrik]

Hey

have you tried Cherry Green before?
They have similar if not the same weight to Cherry Green, but I find Gateron Green to have a louder more distinct click noise

both are good though potayto-potahto

[punksinatra]

Hey

have you tried Cherry Green before?
They have similar if not the same weight to Cherry Green, but I find Gateron Green to have a louder more distinct click noise

both are good though potayto-potahto

hey thanks for the reply.. basing from the answer I got seems like not too many people using the gateron greens

[Moistgun]

With every Cherry/Gateron pairing I have tried, I like the Gateron version the most for all accounts.

They are just usually smoother and cheaper. 2 big ones for me

[slot demon]

I think one reason why more people use MX green is because they are since a much longer time available as gateron greens.

[tobydeemer]

I put Gateron greens into a CM QF Stealth, and it's awesome. They sound better and feel better than the Cherry in my opinion. HTH.

[mll8394]

Used both, Can't even tell the difference. Maybe Gaterons are a tad clickier but in terms of other aspects like spring weight, they're the same. and as usual Gats are smoother  ) )
Green switches feels nice and I like them more than blues. Makes me feel like I'm using the ol' typewriter again, even sounds like it 

[xtrafrood]

Definitely easier to find Cherry Greens iirc

[ander]

I am looking at getting Gateron Green but cannot find much information about it specially the difference with Cherry MX Greens.

Used both, Can't even tell the difference. Maybe Gaterons are a tad clickier but in terms of other aspects like spring weight, they're the same. and as usual Gats are smoother...

You say you can't detect any difference between them, but Gaterons are clickier and smoother. Am I missing something, or are you contradicting yourself in the same sentence?

And has anyone found any actual TKL or full-size boards with Gateron Greens? I've looked all over, but all I can find are those little KBParadise deals. Is one required to use a bunch of key-combinations just to have GGs? Is this some sort of cosmic destiny thing, switch-wise?

[xtrafrood]

Build a TKL?

[JackieOReally]

Are greens one of the rarest switches ?

[mll8394]

I am looking at getting Gateron Green but cannot find much information about it specially the difference with Cherry MX Greens.

Used both, Can't even tell the difference. Maybe Gaterons are a tad clickier but in terms of other aspects like spring weight, they're the same. and as usual Gats are smoother...

You say you can't detect any difference between them, but Gaterons are clickier and smoother. Am I missing something, or are you contradicting yourself in the same sentence?

And has anyone found any actual TKL or full-size boards with Gateron Greens? I've looked all over, but all I can find are those little KBParadise deals. Is one required to use a bunch of key-combinations just to have GGs? Is this some sort of cosmic destiny thing, switch-wise?

What I meant was for me I feel no significant difference between them green switches. I said maybe they are clickier based on everyone's reaction to them and smoother based on my own experience comparing gats blacks to mx blacks. Sorry for not making it clear lol  )

[falkentyne]

Every time I mention this, I get ignored.  Sigh.

Please check the CLICK ELECTRICAL ACTIVATION POINT of these switches (Gaterons, KBTalking, Cherry, Outemu, etc).

On the click tactile Cherry MX switches, electrical activation on downstroke (from neutral) happens as the slider is engaged at the bump, so the slider slides through the electrical activation point, triggering actuation and the bump click at the same time.  It is impossible to not trigger the electrical actuation from neutral downstroke on click bump actuation on clicky Cherry MX switches.  This is a very nice often overlooked feature of clicky MX switches, and why they are so nice to type on accurately.  While the electrical release point is below the click bump disengage point (and it's thus possible to re-engage the switch electrically without disengaging the click bump), the electrical activation and release points do not move or change themselves; they are at the same point.

On all Cherry MX tactile, non clicky switches, the electrical activation point is always below the bump engage point.

On SOME clone clicky switches, the electrical activation point is below the click bump engage point, meaning it's possible to engage the bump click without engaging the switch, which leads to a feeling of cheapness if you are used to MX blues, greens, milk or click greys (rare).  It's very easy to do this on an Outemu switch.  KBT switches were reported not to have this issue.

Do Gateron clicky switches suffer from this issue, or does the electrical activation always occur at the same point as the click bump engage (from neutral downstroke?)

[ander]

...Has anyone found any actual TKL or full-size boards with Gateron Greens? I've looked all over, but all I can find are those little KBParadise deals...

Build a TKL?

Well, sure, it's obvious you can build a board with any switches.

I realize many people here take great satisfaction in setting aside untold hours of their lives to assemble fancy custom boards. But I don't care about artsy cases, disco backlights effects or $200 keycaps with little monster faces. (I haven't felt it necessary to gold-plate or engrave my hammer, screwdriver, or other productivity tools either, LOL.)

I just like to type. I'm just talking about trying a particular kind of switch, one that's currently made and that you can buy online by the bag. It wouldn't make much sense for me to build a whole board just to do that, unless there really were no alternative.

Are greens one of the rarest switches ?

In boards you can buy, maybe—I'm still trying to figure that out. You can buy the switches themselves easily enough, though people charge differently for them of course, e.g.:

Originative ($30)  PC Gaming Race ($34.99)  MechKB ($49.00)

Used both, Can't even tell the difference. Maybe Gaterons are a tad clickier but in terms of other aspects like spring weight, they're the same. and as usual Gats are smoother...

You say you can't detect any difference between them, but Gaterons are clickier and smoother. Am I missing something...?

What I meant was for me I feel no significant difference between them green switches. I said maybe they are clickier based on everyone's reaction to them and smoother based on my own experience comparing gats blacks to mx blacks. Sorry for not making it clear lol  ;D :))

Ah, that's funny—thanks for explaining. (This is why tech writers work so hard for their dough, BTW.)

Every time I mention this, I get ignored.  Sigh.

Please check the CLICK ELECTRICAL ACTIVATION POINT of these switches (Gaterons, KBTalking, Cherry, Outemu, etc).

On the click tactile Cherry MX switches, electrical activation on downstroke (from neutral) happens as the slider is engaged at the bump, so the slider slides through the electrical activation point, triggering actuation and the bump click at the same time.  It is impossible to not trigger the electrical actuation from neutral downstroke on click bump actuation on clicky Cherry MX switches.  This is a very nice often overlooked feature of clicky MX switches, and why they are so nice to type on accurately.  While the electrical release point is below the click bump disengage point (and it's thus possible to re-engage the switch electrically without disengaging the click bump), the electrical activation and release points do not move or change themselves; they are at the same point.

On all Cherry MX tactile, non clicky switches, the electrical activation point is always below the bump engage point.

On SOME clone clicky switches, the electrical activation point is below the click bump engage point, meaning it's possible to engage the bump click without engaging the switch, which leads to a feeling of cheapness if you are used to MX blues, greens, milk or click greys (rare).  It's very easy to do this on an Outemu switch.  KBT switches were reported not to have this issue.

Do Gateron clicky switches suffer from this issue, or does the electrical activation always occur at the same point as the click bump engage (from neutral downstroke?)

Wow, dude, calm down. (Is it possible you just need to get out a bit more...?)

Are you actually saying that you can tell, in the course of normal typing, that Cherry MXs's actuation points are slightly below their bump points? Is your key-pressing so inhumanly accurate that you actually find you're releasing keys post-bump and failing to actuate them?

Or are you talking about s-l-o-w-l-y pressing keys so you can analyze at which precise points their bumps and actuations occur? If so, in real-life terms, how could that possibly matter?

It's fine to spend a certain amount of time agonizing over such things. But after a while, don't you have to ask yourself, is it that important? As Woody Allen says, "Eventually we get old and die." I'm just saying.

[jal]

Just another datapoint. I love Gat greens - probably my favorite switch (so far).

In addition to feeling a bit crisper than Cherry, I think they sounds slightly crisper, too.

[falkentyne]

...Has anyone found any actual TKL or full-size boards with Gateron Greens? I've looked all over, but all I can find are those little KBParadise deals...

Build a TKL?

Well, sure, it's obvious you can build a board with any switches.

I realize many people here take great satisfaction in setting aside untold hours of their lives to assemble fancy custom boards. But I don't care about artsy cases, disco backlights effects or $200 keycaps with little monster faces. (I haven't felt it necessary to gold-plate or engrave my hammer, screwdriver, or other productivity tools either, LOL.)

I just like to type. I'm just talking about trying a particular kind of switch, one that's currently made and that you can buy online by the bag. It wouldn't make much sense for me to build a whole board just to do that, unless there really were no alternative.

Are greens one of the rarest switches ?

In boards you can buy, maybe—I'm still trying to figure that out. You can buy the switches themselves easily enough, though people charge differently for them of course, e.g.:

Originative ($30)  PC Gaming Race ($34.99)  MechKB ($49.00)

Used both, Can't even tell the difference. Maybe Gaterons are a tad clickier but in terms of other aspects like spring weight, they're the same. and as usual Gats are smoother...

You say you can't detect any difference between them, but Gaterons are clickier and smoother. Am I missing something...?

What I meant was for me I feel no significant difference between them green switches. I said maybe they are clickier based on everyone's reaction to them and smoother based on my own experience comparing gats blacks to mx blacks. Sorry for not making it clear lol  )

Ah, that's funny—thanks for explaining. (This is why tech writers work so hard for their dough, BTW.)

Every time I mention this, I get ignored.  Sigh.

Please check the CLICK ELECTRICAL ACTIVATION POINT of these switches (Gaterons, KBTalking, Cherry, Outemu, etc).

On the click tactile Cherry MX switches, electrical activation on downstroke (from neutral) happens as the slider is engaged at the bump, so the slider slides through the electrical activation point, triggering actuation and the bump click at the same time.  It is impossible to not trigger the electrical actuation from neutral downstroke on click bump actuation on clicky Cherry MX switches.  This is a very nice often overlooked feature of clicky MX switches, and why they are so nice to type on accurately.  While the electrical release point is below the click bump disengage point (and it's thus possible to re-engage the switch electrically without disengaging the click bump), the electrical activation and release points do not move or change themselves; they are at the same point.

On all Cherry MX tactile, non clicky switches, the electrical activation point is always below the bump engage point.

On SOME clone clicky switches, the electrical activation point is below the click bump engage point, meaning it's possible to engage the bump click without engaging the switch, which leads to a feeling of cheapness if you are used to MX blues, greens, milk or click greys (rare).  It's very easy to do this on an Outemu switch.  KBT switches were reported not to have this issue.

Do Gateron clicky switches suffer from this issue, or does the electrical activation always occur at the same point as the click bump engage (from neutral downstroke?)

Wow, dude, calm down. (Is it possible you just need to get out a bit more...?)

Are you actually saying that you can tell, in the course of normal typing, that Cherry MXs's actuation points are slightly below their bump points? Is your key-pressing so inhumanly accurate that you actually find you're releasing keys post-bump and failing to actuate them?

Or are you talking about s-l-o-w-l-y pressing keys so you can analyze at which precise points their bumps and actuations occur? If so, in real-life terms, how could that possibly matter?

It's fine to spend a certain amount of time agonizing over such things. But after a while, don't you have to ask yourself, is it that important? As Woody Allen says, "Eventually we get old and die." I'm just saying.

Hi, the reason I asked is, it's possible to actuate the bump click without activating the circuit itself on outemu blues, WITHOUT even trying to deliberately do it, unless you bottom out all of the time.  This is an issue for me because I don't always bottom out.  Cherry MX browns are light enough so this is never an issue unless I do it deliberately.  Obviously this doesn't happen on MX blues or greens.  But does happen on Outemus.

Again, this is only an issue for people do not bottom out. It's impossible not to bottom out on Cherry MX browns, so that is a non issue there.  MX blues and greens avoid this issue by having the click bump go *through* the electric actuation point.  However, this IS an issue on cherry MX tactile greys, and why I can't see them being used as a common switch.  Clears share the exact same switch mechanism, but you should be able to go through the bump and reach electrical activation decently on clears.  But tactile greys are so heavy that unless you bottom out, it's possible to not activate the switch when you pass the bump.

With outemu blues, since the click is stronger than the Cherry MX switches, if you are used to stopping at the click, you can miss strokes.

I Just wanted to know if this happens on Gateron blues and greens because I wanted to buy some gateron greens to put into my Vod Ray teamwolf hot swappable keyboard.
I already ordered 120 Gateron greens so I guess I'll find out soon enough.

[snarfbot]

from the ones ive had it only registers keypresses just below the tactile bump, such that its impossible to get a click without also registering a keypress.

[falkentyne]

Yeah thanks for that confirmation.
I bought a set of 120 from glorious PC race, and threw them into my Vod Ray teamwolf keyboard, and they work just fine.  Extremely smooth, I'd say they are the same smoothness as the MX Greens on my Ducky Fire 69 board, which had a very good batch of greens (VERY consistent on that board, although the Q key needed some major breaking in at first).  And yes, the Gateron greens mechanical mechanism is identical to Cherry.   I think the accurate way to say it is the click bump mechanism activation goes -through- the electrical circuit activation on downpress, so it's impossible to activate the click bump mechanism without also activating the switch circuit, which is exactly what I was looking for.  Click bump release is above electrical release as normal for Cherry clickies.

So they're basically a smooth cherry green.
That being said, the click on the Gaterons aren't exactly the same on all keys; some are pretty loud and some are much quieter, but the feel is the same overall.  I'm happy with them.  I would say the Ducky fire 69 sample I have has the best MX Greens (so I'd prefer them over the gaterons), then I'd prefer the Gaterons over any of the recent RGB Blues due to QA consistency issues on many batches of blues.  The MX Greens on my 69 are quite loud, louder than the blues on my Shine 6 by far.  The pitch on the Gateron greens is different than the MX greens, though the sound is loud also.

[ander]

I bought a set of 120 from glorious PC race, and threw them into my Vod Ray teamwolf keyboard... So they're basically a smooth cherry green. That being said, the click on the Gaterons aren't exactly the same on all keys; some are pretty loud and some are much quieter, but the feel is the same overall.  I'm happy with them.  I would say the Ducky fire 69 sample I have has the best MX Greens (so I'd prefer them over the gaterons), then I'd prefer the Gaterons over any of the recent RGB Blues due to QA consistency issues on many batches of blues.  The MX Greens on my 69 are quite loud, louder than the blues on my Shine 6 by far.  The pitch on the Gateron greens is different than the MX greens, though the sound is loud also.

I have a board with MX Blacks, and I'm glad I tracked one down with Gateron Blacks, too, because they're significantly different. (I like both, but the Gats are smoother and a bit lighter, rather like a more assertive MX Red.)

That's why I wondered how MX and Gateron Greens compared. If I follow you, you're saying the same kind of distinction doesn't exist between MX and Gateron Greens—so it's not worthwhile seeking out GG's when MXG's are available (or if you already have a board with them). Thanks for making that clear!

You know how it is: It's often not possible to try out more obscure switches. You have to go ahead and buy a board with them, then find out how you like them.

BTW—and I know I've said this many times here on GH, so sorry if I'm being tedious—I consider those multi-switch "testers" useless at best, and deceptive at worst. Typing's about so much more than how one switch feels on one finger. It's about how a whole board full of switches responds to your unique typing style. (Typing patterns are so individual, you can identify people from them like fingerprints.) The only way to know how you like a particular switch is to try a real board of them, connected to a real computer where you can see what you're typing.

Ahem. Right then, carry on.

[ander]

So they're basically a smooth cherry green... That being said, the click on the Gaterons aren't exactly the same on all keys; some are pretty loud and some are much quieter, but the feel is the same overall...

It's interesting you should said that. Maybe your hearing's a lot better than mine, but I've never used a board with MX Blues where the clicks sounded consistent. They all clicked, but the tones were always different. Not in an unpleasant way; it's more like a chorus of singers with different voices, rather than a bunch of clones. I figured it must have something to do with each switch's position relative to elements of the board's construction, and to the acoustic surroundings.

[dredwerker]

BTW—and I know I've said this many times here on GH, so sorry if I'm being tedious—I consider those multi-switch "testers" useless at best, and deceptive at worst. Typing's about so much more than how one switch feels on one finger. It's about how a whole board full of switches responds to your unique typing style. (Typing patterns are so individual, you can identify people from them like fingerprints.) The only way to know how you like a particular switch is to try a real board of them, connected to a real computer where you can see what you're typing.

Ahem. Right then, carry on.

I would just like to pick up on this point. I just got a switch tester and I think its incredibly useful. I can see what everyone is talking about when it comes to the switches. I changed a few springs and generally mucked about with it. I now know that I wouldn't like cherry reds as they are too light. I am using a cherry brown keyboard so its lighter than that and I want something even heavier.

I am in agreement that I won't know whether I would like a whole keyboard of a certain switch until I get one but I think it helps point me in the right direction. I am going to put greens in my switch tester and then try out a board of them.