Opening up an IKBC F87

[fractl]

Well, I've finally graduated to a wonderful, non-gaming mechanical keyboard, having just received an IKBC F87 today. The keyboard is superb, and it's everything I'd hoped it would be, except there's one switch that pings like a metal spring being plucked. I know this isn't IKBC's fault, and I know it's not an abnormality per se, and I also feel as though I can easily use the keyboard despite it, but, since I often do a lot of typing in quiet situations, the ping does tend to stand out.

Like I said, it's not that terrible an issue, but I figure why not swap out the switch in question with a switch from a little-used key, such as, say, the print screen key. This would mean getting a soldering iron, a solder pump, and some solder, and it would add to the cost of the keyboard considerably, but, on the other hand, the perfectionist in me would end up with a flawless keyboard, not to mention that I would then have the tools and a little experience at my disposal for potential future projects.

At any rate, I was just wondering if anyone here has had experience opening an IKBC case. Not that I imagine it to be terribly difficult, but, since it's the first keyboard case I will be opening, I just want to have an idea what to do before beginning. Actually, the soldering and desoldering seems pretty straightforward... I just don't want to be forcing anything to open in ways that I shouldn't be doing.

I assume there's something relevant under the 'don't remove this' sticker. Apart from this, I don't see any screws. Basically, I just don't want to be removing rubber pads looking for screws if there aren't any there and the housing needs to be separated by something like a credit card, and I don't want to be trying to get the housing to snap open if there are hidden screws that I should have removed first. I think you know what I mean. Like I said, I could probably figure it out, but why experiment and possibly abuse the keyboard when I can simply learn the proper technique beforehand instead.

Sorry for the long post, but I'm just enjoying typing on this thing so much. :-)

To reiterate, I'm typing on this now and am not distressed by it, though I'd simply prefer it not be there. But I'm a bit of a perfectionist, and would rather correct something that could be easily corrected, especially when it start me off on skills that could be used in the future. (Hello, Zealios?)

[Tactile]

According to this guy there are no screws, only clips which need to be released.

[fractl]

Thanks for the link!  I searched for videos related to the IKBC F87, but, for some reason, this one didn't come up.  The only difference I could see between the video and my keyboard is that my keyboard has a round sticker that says 'do not remove' which is located just under the cable where it exits the case.  There was no such sticker on the keyboard in the video, and there also didn't seem to be anything there at all, meaning that, if the guy who made the video removed the sticker, there was nothing underneath.

I'm thinking that maybe this is a new addition to the keyboard, so they'd have some idea if people had opened their keyboard (in the case that someone screwed something up and tried to return it).  And I'm assuming that, if there's a sticker there, there must now be a screw underneath.  But, if I remove the sticker to find out and there's nothing there, I will have voided the warranty for nothing.  If, on the other hand, there's a screw there, I obviously don't want to be trying to pry the keyboard open without removing it.

I tried pressing on the sticker, and there seems to be a bit of an indentation beneath, and, like I said, there was nothing visible there in the video (unless it was a small screw hole hidden under the cable).  I suppose I should just stop being a wimp and remove the sticker, but I do kind of wish I knew if it was necessary or not (as I said, without finding out it's necessary by trying to pry the case open without removing a screw and damaging it).

Oh well, I'm probably just being hesitant because this is the first time I'll be doing this.

[SpecTP]

I recently got mine through MD. It's very nice and solidly built. Some folks reported issues with shorts that was fixed by putting an insulator under the pcb. I haven't heard of any odd pinging sounds.

[pixelpusher]

You'll want 3 or 4 credit cards to start.  The rigid plastic of these cards is perfect because it won't bend under pressure and it won't scratch your case.  Slip one between the top cover and base in the front, and start to pry the tabs apart.  Get a card wedged in there between the tab and the hole it goes into and leave it.  Then, insert the next card and the next, etc...  Once you get the 4 tabs apart, the front will start to come off, but the back will also have 4.  If you have more cards, use them the same way in the back. Or, if you've separated the case top enough in the front, you should be able to use one of the credit cards from there without the tab slipping back into place.

Once you remove the top, you'll see the plate sitting on top of the plastic bottom housing.  It is held in place there with the screw that is underneath the "Do not remove" sticker.  Just punch through the sticker with a screwdriver and take it out. Just in case, check for any other screws on the newly revealed switch plate (but there probably aren't any).

The plate/PCB assembly should lift off of the base once you remove the screw under the sticker.

[fractl]

Thanks very much!  That was precisely the information I was looking for.