GH-122.2016 Case Options

[Data]

You're welcome and thank you for the two posts.

Those, my friend, I believe to be stabilizer holes for a Japanese spacebar.  From the bottom row for all people and all situations.  I thought I got rid of those!  Apparently, however, I got rid of the switch position and kept the stabilizers, and then did the reverse for the 6.25.  Grrr.

Anyhow, thanks!

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.

Happy to help.  This has been a fun and challenging build from start to finish.

[iamtootallforthis]

Anyone interested in an ANSI/ISO plate?

(Attachment Link)
Semi-universal plate for GH-122.2016-2017.

This plate is designed to the same dimensions as the PCB, and will support standard ANSI with 104 or full function keys, as well as ISO Enter with split right shift.  (The weird slices on the function key cutouts are cutaway ribs to allow 104-style function rows with offset F5-F8.)  It also supports single or double keys in the upper-left block, the numpad, and the backspace.  Stepped and non-stepped Caps keys are supported, and Cherry plate-mount stabilizers for the 6.25 spacebar (using 50mm centers!).

I will probably add guides for cutting the plate to fit the Unicomp case, and to be used in a 5x24 wide-body configuration.

Anyhow, my testing shows that this PCB likes a plate, and for five or more plates, Big Blue Saw wants $82 in raw stainless steel.

I wiil probably have some made for a 2017 run of PCBs, and I wondered if any of the current builders are interested.

Please reply here if this might be for you, and if there is a cutout you think I missed.

Thanks very much,

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
(Attachment Link)

I would be interested! What would be the added cost for switch modding cuts?

[samwisekoi]

I would be interested! What would be the added cost for switch modding cuts?

I don't know, mostly because I've never designed or made a plate with the complicated cut-outs for modding.  Probably because I mod with a soldering iron ;^)

I'll draw up a smaller sample plate both ways and find out the pricing delta for water jet cuts.

Does anyone know of a source for on-line quotes for laser cutting?

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.

[Data]

A lot of GeekHackers have been using Lasergist lately with good results.  Have not used them myself.  They are stainless steel only.

http://lasergist.com/

[samwisekoi]

A lot of GeekHackers have been using Lasergist lately with good results.  Have not used them myself.  They are stainless steel only.

http://lasergist.com/

Thanks!  This plate falls into the "contact us" size, so I have contacted them to see about estmated pricing.

Thanks again,

 - Ron | samwisekoi

[Hak Foo]

One thing you might want to look into with it-- when I did my plate, I found that the price difference to add top and bottom plates was only like $15.  You might want to inquire about economies of scale for including bottom plates, at least; top ones might vary quite a bit.

[samwisekoi]

One thing you might want to look into with it-- when I did my plate, I found that the price difference to add top and bottom plates was only like $15.  You might want to inquire about economies of scale for including bottom plates, at least; top ones might vary quite a bit.

Thank you, yes. That is a very good idea.

My bottom plate would be .250" larger on each side, or .500" taller and .500" wider, but the same material with just a few holes might make things cheaper in volume indeed.

Thanks very much!

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.

[samwisekoi]

I spent some time this weekend working on a case surround for the GH-122.  This version is 7.0" x 20.0"; 0.50" at the front, rising to 1.00" at the rear.  It is one piece of (currently) 3D-printed "Strong and Flexible Plastic" (sintered nylon).  It is designed to work with or without a plate, and a the builder's choice of an optional layout-specific top cover in 0.125" (3mm) acrylic or other material.  This allows a single case to support all full-board configurations.  The walls are 0.250" (6mm) thick, with a 0.125" thick (3mm) support ridge.  The small cutouts near the corners are only 1/32" deep, and strictly cosmetic.  They are a tip of the design hat to the Model M and Model F from IBM.  Finally, there are six mounting holes on the bottom edge for a 7.0" x 20.0" bottom plate.

I am going to test qty=1 from Shapeways for $115 USD.  Depending on material and volume, a top cover adds $25-45 from Big Blue Saw.

It would be excellent to get this cast in metal, but for now 3D-printing is the plan.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.

[xondat]

Hey Sam, dropped you a PM - hopefully you can reply! Thanks.

[xondat]

Regarding an all-metal case, oddly enough I have an 8x20" chunk of .250" aluminum for a base plate right here.  Not looking forward to cutting and sanding it.  But yeah, all-metal would be awesome!

 - Ron | samwisekoi

6 months late, but I'll have this made when the 2017 GB happens. This version is based around the 2016 files, as that's all that's available, but I'll be able to make the necessary changes for next year. The only thing I'm struggling with is the Teensy++ USB port and where it is in relation (as I don't have a PCB file, only a mid-plate). If anyone could help me with that, then I'd appreciate it.

[henz]

shiet, this looks like alot of fun

[nathanrosspowell]

Regarding an all-metal case, oddly enough I have an 8x20" chunk of .250" aluminum for a base plate right here.  Not looking forward to cutting and sanding it.  But yeah, all-metal would be awesome!

 - Ron | samwisekoi

Show Image

6 months late, but I'll have this made when the 2017 GB happens. This version is based around the 2016 files, as that's all that's available, but I'll be able to make the necessary changes for next year. The only thing I'm struggling with is the Teensy++ USB port and where it is in relation (as I don't have a PCB file, only a mid-plate). If anyone could help me with that, then I'd appreciate it.

Show Image

Oh and it weighs 3900 grams. Or 8.6 lbs. I was going to add a brass weight, but I think it would take it over 6kg.. so I'll skip that for now. There are 16 (8 each side) top mounting points for the plate, and 10 (5 each side) holes to join the top/bottom. Probably going to have 8 feet as well.

Regarding the LED holes, I know they're too big but I'll add a small acrylic/polycarbonate piece under them to diffuse them and fix that up later when I have more information. The engraving will be quite shallow, .5mm at the minute, as there are quite a lot of small parts to it.

The plate is also not final - I meant to have a winkeyless bottom row, and also a stepped caps, but I forgot when initially starting so I'll edit that later on too. If there are any other things I should change regarding the plate then let me know and I can incorporate it. Oh, and switch opening is a must in my eyes, I can change the style to the image below, or remove it completely too. I'll also clean up the stabilizer holes when I can be bothered.

Show Image

I'll quickly touch on price - it shouldn't be as bad as mentioned, perhaps only $400 max although that'd be with only 2/3 colors and no plate/top options etc. Removing the brass weigh will lower the price compared to my other cases which is why that price is achievable.

Mane, that's killer  :thumb:

[Data]

Regarding an all-metal case, oddly enough I have an 8x20" chunk of .250" aluminum for a base plate right here.  Not looking forward to cutting and sanding it.  But yeah, all-metal would be awesome!

 - Ron | samwisekoi

Show Image

6 months late, but I'll have this made when the 2017 GB happens. This version is based around the 2016 files, as that's all that's available, but I'll be able to make the necessary changes for next year. The only thing I'm struggling with is the Teensy++ USB port and where it is in relation (as I don't have a PCB file, only a mid-plate). If anyone could help me with that, then I'd appreciate it.

Show Image

Oh and it weighs 3900 grams. Or 8.6 lbs. I was going to add a brass weight, but I think it would take it over 6kg.. so I'll skip that for now. There are 16 (8 each side) top mounting points for the plate, and 10 (5 each side) holes to join the top/bottom. Probably going to have 8 feet as well.

Regarding the LED holes, I know they're too big but I'll add a small acrylic/polycarbonate piece under them to diffuse them and fix that up later when I have more information. The engraving will be quite shallow, .5mm at the minute, as there are quite a lot of small parts to it.

The plate is also not final - I meant to have a winkeyless bottom row, and also a stepped caps, but I forgot when initially starting so I'll edit that later on too. If there are any other things I should change regarding the plate then let me know and I can incorporate it. Oh, and switch opening is a must in my eyes, I can change the style to the image below, or remove it completely too. I'll also clean up the stabilizer holes when I can be bothered.

Show Image

I'll quickly touch on price - it shouldn't be as bad as mentioned, perhaps only $400 max although that'd be with only 2/3 colors and no plate/top options etc. Removing the brass weigh will lower the price compared to my other cases which is why that price is achievable.

Wow.  :eek:

[0100010]

Cross post : I finally (mostly finished) my GH-122 : https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=80326.msg2470914#msg2470914

[iamtootallforthis]

Cross post : I finally (mostly finished) my GH-122 : https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=80326.msg2470914#msg2470914

I'll need the plate file.

[0100010]

Pretty sure this is the one I had BBS cut for me (attached).  I was not completely happy with the costar stab locations though - had to sand the top side of the key inserts to get clearance (which is an issue I vaguely recall others commenting about using same DXFs from the master CAD thread).

[iamtootallforthis]

Pretty sure this is the one I had BBS cut for me (attached).  I was not completely happy with the costar stab locations though - had to sand the top side of the key inserts to get clearance (which is an issue I vaguely recall others commenting about using same DXFs from the master CAD thread).

Good to know. I am terrible with CAD and would probably be using cherry stabs any way so I guess I would need to confirm the measurements and such

[0100010]

That DXF has stab cutouts that supports both cherry and costar.