Good, affordable Vintage Boards?

[gnho]

Hi all-

I just got some vintage boards recently and I really enjoy them. I'm kind of curious about what are the boards that are widely available, not too expensive (<$150), and type pretty nicely. Anything like M0116, Model M, and Model F?

Bonus question, what's the strangest thing you have ever seen when opening the case of a vintage keyboard?

Thanks!

[Maledicted]

Hi all-

I just got some vintage boards recently and I really enjoy them. I'm kind of curious about what are the boards that are widely available, not too expensive (<$150), and type pretty nicely. Anything like M0116, Model M, and Model F?

Bonus question, what's the strangest thing you have ever seen when opening the case of a vintage keyboard?

Thanks!

Anything with Alps SKCM, of most varieties. You can find boards with white alps pretty commonly for $40-80, including some of the popular ones like Omnikeys and the FK-2000. Be wary of visibly dirty boards, as Alps switches can become gritty easily. Cleaning them is a process, and may not guarantee a return to perfect feel.

I, personally, think that anything with NEC blue ovals is nice, and boards with those can sell for very little.

Although I own too many of them, and probably haven't seen the end of that, I'm actually not really a fan of the feel of membrane buckling spring keyboards, like the Model M. I would honestly prefer a good modern clicky switch. If you would like them, their prices have come down as Model F prices have gone up. You can often find perfectly working boards for $40-60 on Ebay with a little digging. Model Fs, you will not find for less than $150 very easily unless you find a reasonable price on an F XT, which I personally would not pay more than $70 or $80 for, and the layout is just a little too jarring for most people, including myself, and I routinely type on AT layout boards without issue.

The Unitek K151L is a cool and fun AT board, and very well made if you ignore the construction of the PCB within. You can find them for cheap (like $30 sometimes, if you haggle), and they come with "vintage" Cherry MX blacks, if that's your thing. If not, you can swap in whatever modern MX-like switch you like. I put box jades in one of mine.

I would stay away from Futaba. They're interesting, but not worth the effort. They lose their tactility over the years and, knowing this from experience, the tricks you can find on Deskthority to try to revive them may linearise them. I haven't found any way to reverse that without maybe cutting the switches open, which are held together with plastic rivets, so I'm not sure what the best way to assemble them once more may be, if even feasible.

I picked up a terminal clone board from the early 1980s and somebody had taken the trouble to open the board, cut some traces, and run jumper wires to completely bypass a few switches. I haven't gotten that board working at all with a modern computer, so I'm not sure why that may have been.

[jseyfert3]

Hi all-

I just got some vintage boards recently and I really enjoy them. I'm kind of curious about what are the boards that are widely available, not too expensive (<$150), and type pretty nicely. Anything like M0116, Model M, and Model F?

Bonus question, what's the strangest thing you have ever seen when opening the case of a vintage keyboard?

Thanks!

You might know this but Unicomp makes new "Model M" keyboards at around the $95 mark. That's what I got in 2016 after a coworker introduced me to mechanical keyboards. He had a Model F, not sure the model, and while I loved typing on it I wanted something with a modern layout. I found Unicomp made what is essentially a Model M (they bought the trademark so technically it is a Model M but many here don't consider it as such) and I went that route rather than buying a used Model M on off eBay and cleaning/fixing it. I've been happy with it. I only started coming here recently cause I'm looking at putting together a more portable keyboard for mobile use and a quiet keyboard for work. My Unicomp remains my primary keyboard at home, though I don't like it for gaming.

I see from your post history you got a Model F. Since you own a Model F, my guess is you aren't going to like using a Model M or a Unicomp nearly so much as if you didn't own a Model F. I know I wouldn't. The feel and sound of a Model F is a lot nicer. If I could pay $400 to get a fullsize or TKL Model F in modern key layout I would do that and my Unicomp would no longer be used.

[Maledicted]

If I could pay $400 to get a fullsize or TKL Model F in modern key layout I would do that and my Unicomp would no longer be used.

>_> <_<

The First Modern Model F
Mechanical Keyboard

Scratch that link, I see another post where you say you don't want a new Model F, although it seems to meet your criteria in this thread. I'll leave it in for the interest of others.

I have a new manufacture F77 I snagged on Ebay. I'm typing on it this very moment. It is wonderful.

You can also ANSI mod the F AT and F122 if you like, although I would never permanently modify an original F that's in good condition myself.

The Model M was actually the first vintage mechanical I ever tried, to my knowledge. I may have owned some way before I knew there was such a thing, of course. Even then, I found the membrane buckling spring to be too heavy and a little rough, even on boards that seem to be in great shape, the feel can also be a little inconsistent. I haven't had an extended period of time to play with bolt-modded Ms though, or new production boards from Unicomp. It is humorous to even think about now, but at the time, I basically said that Model Ms were cool and interesting, but I'll just stick with Cherry MX Blue, which I now can't stand anymore either vs box switches. lol

It wasn't until I had the chance to feel a Model F that I got sucked into the vintage switch world ... and then came things like Alps SKCM.

[fohat.digs]

You can also ANSI mod the F AT and F122 if you like, although I would never permanently modify an original F that's in good condition myself.

ANSI mods are easily reversible, unless you go the extra step to Dremel the AT to accommodate Alt keys and a normal space bar.

And as I think about it, I don't think there is anything about that Dremel work that would preclude going back, nobody would ever know unless they pulled the space bar. You are cutting a centimeter off each side of that long black space bar under-carriage but there is no reason it wouldn't still work as before.

[jseyfert3]

If I could pay $400 to get a fullsize or TKL Model F in modern key layout I would do that and my Unicomp would no longer be used.

>_> <_<

The First Modern Model F
Mechanical Keyboard

Scratch that link, I see another post where you say you don't want a new Model F, although it seems to meet your criteria in this thread. I'll leave it in for the interest of others.

I have a new manufacture F77 I snagged on Ebay. I'm typing on it this very moment. It is wonderful.

You can also ANSI mod the F AT and F122 if you like, although I would never permanently modify an original F that's in good condition myself.

The Model M was actually the first vintage mechanical I ever tried, to my knowledge. I may have owned some way before I knew there was such a thing, of course. Even then, I found the membrane buckling spring to be too heavy and a little rough, even on boards that seem to be in great shape, the feel can also be a little inconsistent. I haven't had an extended period of time to play with bolt-modded Ms though, or new production boards from Unicomp. It is humorous to even think about now, but at the time, I basically said that Model Ms were cool and interesting, but I'll just stick with Cherry MX Blue, which I now can't stand anymore either vs box switches. lol

It wasn't until I had the chance to feel a Model F that I got sucked into the vintage switch world ... and then came things like Alps SKCM.

It almost meets my specs. In fact that's why I said $400, cause I knew those keyboards ran about $400 with keycaps. I'm not a fan of the compact layout for general usage. I want my dedicated arrow keys, function keys, home/end/delete/page up/down. The F77 has the dedicated arrow keys and a numpad but not in modern layout, and if my keyboard has a numpad I want the enter and math keys, because I use my numpad with a calculator app and excel on a regular bases. In other words, it's very tempting, but it doesn't have the layout I want and I don't want to spend $400 on a keyboard that doesn't have a layout I won't like using, as much as I'd like a new Model F keyboard.

Modding an F122 might make for an acceptable layout for home use. I'll have to look into that.

[Maledicted]

It almost meets my specs. In fact that's why I said $400, cause I knew those keyboards ran about $400 with keycaps. I'm not a fan of the compact layout for general usage. I want my dedicated arrow keys, function keys, home/end/delete/page up/down. The F77 has the dedicated arrow keys and a numpad but not in modern layout, and if my keyboard has a numpad I want the enter and math keys, because I use my numpad with a calculator app and excel on a regular bases. In other words, it's very tempting, but it doesn't have the layout I want and I don't want to spend $400 on a keyboard that doesn't have a layout I won't like using, as much as I'd like a new Model F keyboard.

Modding an F122 might make for an acceptable layout for home use. I'll have to look into that.

Actually, you can configure the F77 however you like. If you want home/end/delete/page up/down, like on a modern TKL, then you can configure it that way. All you would be missing is dedicated function keys, but I think the default for those is for them to be in a function layer corresponding to the number keys that they're normally above on a modern keyboard. Other than that, an F77 can be a modern TKL. Here's how my number pad area is currently configured:

[Photekq]

Older Cherry G80-1000 keyboards are incredible to type on in my opinion (which seems to be unpopular these days, especially among people who watch Chyros). Most have NKRO, unlike the 3000 series, and they have sturdier cases than the 3000 series while retaining the PCB mount flex which makes them so enjoyable to type on. This is subjective though - I love flex, but other people don't. I'd take a G80-1000s over any Model M/F, or any Alps board I've tried (admittedly not many).

If German ISO layout works for you, these boards can be picked up for substantially less than $150. For example, G80-1501HAD or G80-1000HAD. If you need ANSI or a specific regional ISO layout, things get a bit trickier.

[gnho]

Hi all-

Thanks for all the suggestions! I am going to see if I can find one of those to type on.

I do have a Model F XT, Model M, and a Modern F77 so I'm mostly looking for less known boards.

I think Model F77 is a great keyboard and superior than Model M and XT, since it combines the superior key feel and a more modern and flexible layout. It's really very well-crafted. The zinc case really brings the typing sound to another level. If anyone bought a modern F62 and did not like it, please let me know.

[Maledicted]

Older Cherry G80-1000 keyboards are incredible to type on in my opinion (which seems to be unpopular these days, especially among people who watch Chyros). Most have NKRO, unlike the 3000 series, and they have sturdier cases than the 3000 series while retaining the PCB mount flex which makes them so enjoyable to type on. This is subjective though - I love flex, but other people don't. I'd take a G80-1000s over any Model M/F, or any Alps board I've tried (admittedly not many).

If German ISO layout works for you, these boards can be picked up for substantially less than $150. For example, G80-1501HAD or G80-1000HAD. If you need ANSI or a specific regional ISO layout, things get a bit trickier.

I don't care about flex myself, but I do appreciate a nice apocalypse-ready board. You like them more than a Model F?  Even with stock Cherry switches? I have yet to try anything made today that I would take over a Model F, besides maybe, just maybe, some box clickies.

What Alps switches have you tried? I would throw all of the Model Fs in the world into a wood chipper if it meant an unlimited supply of SKCM blues.

Hi all-

Thanks for all the suggestions! I am going to see if I can find one of those to type on.

I do have a Model F XT, Model M, and a Modern F77 so I'm mostly looking for less known boards.

I think Model F77 is a great keyboard and superior than Model M and XT, since it combines the superior key feel and a more modern and flexible layout. It's really very well-crafted. The zinc case really brings the typing sound to another level. If anyone bought a modern F62 and did not like it, please let me know.

Agreed. Ellipse did a great job.

Yeah, if you want really obscure, but a pleasure to type on, for cheap, I would say try out NEC blue ovals first then. Most space invaders boards won't run you over $50 or $60 either, and the ones I have tried have been a pleasure as well.

Fujitsu Peerless isn't half bad either. The Deskthority wiki seems to claim that they feel like scratchy membrane buckling springs. I find that to be bunk. My board has a few switches that are a little rough, most feel like glass, so whoever wrote that must have pulled theirs out of a sand pit. They do seem to feel just about as inconsistent as a beat up old Model M, and ones with nice crisp tactility are definitely fairly close to membrane buckling spring in weight and feel. The stabilizers suck though. There were tons of boards with those for cheap on Ebay last I saw.

Might be able to find an Alps SKCC board for cheap too, which are also a pleasure to type on, but good luck finding one that will interface with a modern computer, and they're all linear. Alps SKCM is king of the mountain though, in all realms of switches. Really worth getting a board with SKCM whites for cheap, if you can find one that's smooth/clean.

[gnho]

Just found this one on fleebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Nec-Computer-Keyboard-APC-H412-K016/184100816122?hash=item2add4384fa:g:~3IAAOSwijBeBQrE

Are there other keywords I should search for a blue oval?

Relatedly... I'm finally getting my hands on some blue alps...probably the most expensive switch I have ever bought other than topre and certainly the rarest... Saw someone on deskthority wants to do a remake but didn't see any update

[Maledicted]

Just found this one on fleebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Nec-Computer-Keyboard-APC-H412-K016/184100816122?hash=item2add4384fa:g:~3IAAOSwijBeBQrE

Are there other keywords I should search for a blue oval?

Relatedly... I'm finally getting my hands on some blue alps...probably the most expensive switch I have ever bought other than topre and certainly the rarest... Saw someone on deskthority wants to do a remake but didn't see any update

I think I was looking at that one myself. What I usually do is search by switch, or manufacturer, or model number directly, then do some Google searches to try to narrow down what switches may be present. I'm pretty sure that one has NEC blue ovals in it. I think I was considering getting it myself, lol. If you type on them with some gusto, they ping, and that ping reminds me a bit of a ukulele or something. Entertaining, to be sure.

You are? Where from? In a board? I saw some really freaking cool blue alps boards on Ebay recently a guy was selling, but he wanted $300 each. They looked brand new ... so they were probably worth that, but I have never spent more than half that for a blue alps board. They were black, with some dolch-like caps.

I hope they do finally perfectly recreate blue alps. I could swear off MX-like boards forever.

[gnho]

I think I was looking at that one myself. What I usually do is search by switch, or manufacturer, or model number directly, then do some Google searches to try to narrow down what switches may be present. I'm pretty sure that one has NEC blue ovals in it. I think I was considering getting it myself, lol. If you type on them with some gusto, they ping, and that ping reminds me a bit of a ukulele or something. Entertaining, to be sure.

You are? Where from? In a board? I saw some really freaking cool blue alps boards on Ebay recently a guy was selling, but he wanted $300 each. They looked brand new ... so they were probably worth that, but I have never spent more than half that for a blue alps board. They were black, with some dolch-like caps.

I hope they do finally perfectly recreate blue alps. I could swear off MX-like boards forever.

Well if you're going after it, by all means. The whole point is to stop bidding up these vintage boards...LOL

There are some people selling switches on reddit and I contacted one to see if he's willing to build a 60% for me. I like vintage boards but they just take up so much space! I think a good condition blue alps is going for around $2 a piece, which means that all the owners will sell at least the 2x the number of switches. To me, going the 60% is more economical and adds practicality.

[Photekq]

I don't care about flex myself, but I do appreciate a nice apocalypse-ready board. You like them more than a Model F?  Even with stock Cherry switches? I have yet to try anything made today that I would take over a Model F, besides maybe, just maybe, some box clickies.

What Alps switches have you tried? I would throw all of the Model Fs in the world into a wood chipper if it meant an unlimited supply of SKCM blues.

Well, if you want apocalypse-ready then a Cherry G80-1000 will probably do better than most. Drop an Alps/IBM board and the case will probably shatter. Drop a Cherry G80 and it'll be fine, since it weighs so little.

As far as IBM goes I've tried a few Model M 101s (earliest 86), a NIB SSK (93), F122, F107 (kishy), and a few beamsprings. I haven't tried many alps though; SKCM white, Alps plate spring, Monterey blues, and one SKCM blue board (Packard Bell T9102). I'd still take a G80-1000 with some nice vintage MX blacks, vintage MX clears or vintage MX browns in it over any of them though. Hell, I'd take one with vintage MX blues over most of them too.

Switches, just like everything in this hobby, are subjective though. I think vintage Cherry switches are great (miles better than the new ones) but not everyone agrees with me, so there's no promise you'll enjoy them. I think they're worth a try though.

Also, fwiw, there's one exception. Out of the beamsprings I've tried, there's one 3278 which stands out in terms of typing feel. Those switches feel better than any MX switch imo, but obviously due to the size of the keyboard I can't conveniently use it.

[Maledicted]

I think I was looking at that one myself. What I usually do is search by switch, or manufacturer, or model number directly, then do some Google searches to try to narrow down what switches may be present. I'm pretty sure that one has NEC blue ovals in it. I think I was considering getting it myself, lol. If you type on them with some gusto, they ping, and that ping reminds me a bit of a ukulele or something. Entertaining, to be sure.

You are? Where from? In a board? I saw some really freaking cool blue alps boards on Ebay recently a guy was selling, but he wanted $300 each. They looked brand new ... so they were probably worth that, but I have never spent more than half that for a blue alps board. They were black, with some dolch-like caps.

I hope they do finally perfectly recreate blue alps. I could swear off MX-like boards forever.

Well if you're going after it, by all means. The whole point is to stop bidding up these vintage boards...LOL

There are some people selling switches on reddit and I contacted one to see if he's willing to build a 60% for me. I like vintage boards but they just take up so much space! I think a good condition blue alps is going for around $2 a piece, which means that all the owners will sell at least the 2x the number of switches. To me, going the 60% is more economical and adds practicality.

I'm not going after it, get it if you want it. It is just one of those things that I obviously don't need, but am tempted anyway, for no reason. I have virtually the exact same board. I know it is the same chassis.

I don't care about flex myself, but I do appreciate a nice apocalypse-ready board. You like them more than a Model F?  Even with stock Cherry switches? I have yet to try anything made today that I would take over a Model F, besides maybe, just maybe, some box clickies.

What Alps switches have you tried? I would throw all of the Model Fs in the world into a wood chipper if it meant an unlimited supply of SKCM blues.

Well, if you want apocalypse-ready then a Cherry G80-1000 will probably do better than most. Drop an Alps/IBM board and the case will probably shatter. Drop a Cherry G80 and it'll be fine, since it weighs so little.

As far as IBM goes I've tried a few Model M 101s (earliest 86), a NIB SSK (93), F122, F107 (kishy), and a few beamsprings. I haven't tried many alps though; SKCM white, Alps plate spring, Monterey blues, and one SKCM blue board (Packard Bell T9102). I'd still take a G80-1000 with some nice vintage MX blacks, vintage MX clears or vintage MX browns in it over any of them though. Hell, I'd take one with vintage MX blues over most of them too.

Switches, just like everything in this hobby, are subjective though. I think vintage Cherry switches are great (miles better than the new ones) but not everyone agrees with me, so there's no promise you'll enjoy them. I think they're worth a try though.

Also, fwiw, there's one exception. Out of the beamsprings I've tried, there's one 3278 which stands out in terms of typing feel. Those switches feel better than any MX switch imo, but obviously due to the size of the keyboard I can't conveniently use it.

Nah, I like my cases made of metal if possible. I know a k65/k70 would be fine if I threw it off of a building, unless it landed at some weird angle right on some switch stems maybe. Same with my F77. I think a new manufacture F77, being made of solid Zinc instead of more of a pot metal alloy, might be more likely to crack the concrete/blacktop than to break. I can't think of an Alps board I own that would shatter if dropped. My Zeniths, and my Omnikey, have metal bases. My DC-2014s are also extremely light, so plastic shouldn't be an issue there. I haven't heard of any F AT cases breaking, but that could be a weak point of the F family? I'm sure fohat would know. I imagine the F XT would be fine.

That Cherry board you mentioned does look cool.

It sounds like your preference is for linears and tactiles, which would explain why you don't care so much for the clickies that everyone loves, but you should really try some linear Alps then too, if you haven't. SKCC creams, etc, are wonderful. I bet you would like Kailh creams as well, and some of the box linears/tactiles. I haven't tried many of the more boutique modern switches myself.

I can't tell any significant difference between vintage blacks and modern blacks, between multiple boards of either, myself. I know I'm not a huge fan of Cherry linears or tactiles though. I've almost entirely stopped even using Cherry MX blue. Only still have reds around because I only use them for gaming, and haven't bothered to replace them with something better yet.

[fohat.digs]

Model F cases use a hard but brittle plastic in 2 layers: a glossy white inner layer with a textured off-white coating. That can wear or chip off and is pretty much impossible to blend or match.

Model M cases are PVC that is softer but tougher, and is the same color all the way through. That is the only physical attribute of the M that is superior to the F.

[Maledicted]

Model F cases use a hard but brittle plastic in 2 layers: a glossy white inner layer with a textured off-white coating. That can wear or chip off and is pretty much impossible to blend or match.

Model M cases are PVC that is softer but tougher, and is the same color all the way through. That is the only physical attribute of the M that is superior to the F.

I love that finish on Model Fs though, especially my XT. It just oozes quality somehow. It would make sense for the M cases to be more resilient though.

[fohat.digs]

I love that finish on Model Fs though, especially my XT.

I got rid of all my XTs years ago. 5-10 years ago they were hard to sell for more than $30-$35, and before Soarer's firmware became available you could hardly get more than $10-$15 for one.

But if I remember correctly, the surface "pebbling" was much larger and more pronounced than on the other Fs.

[Maledicted]

I love that finish on Model Fs though, especially my XT.

I got rid of all my XTs years ago. 5-10 years ago they were hard to sell for more than $30-$35, and before Soarer's firmware became available you could hardly get more than $10-$15 for one.

But if I remember correctly, the surface "pebbling" was much larger and more pronounced than on the other Fs.

Yes, it is. I got mine for something like $40-45 because somebody had snipped the cable on the poor thing.

[jacethesaltsculptor]

Model F cases use a hard but brittle plastic in 2 layers: a glossy white inner layer with a textured off-white coating. That can wear or chip off and is pretty much impossible to blend or match.

Model M cases are PVC that is softer but tougher, and is the same color all the way through. That is the only physical attribute of the M that is superior to the F.

I love that finish on Model Fs though, especially my XT. It just oozes quality somehow. It would make sense for the M cases to be more resilient though.

I love that finish on them too, it's such a good look.

I'm also surprised at just how much case variety there is for Model F's. The F122, Xt, and AT, which are the lions share of F's are all the same plastic. But the Blue Switch and switchless have a more flexible M like case. And of course the F107 series with it's zinc bunker shells. The XT 5155 is also a more pliable plastic. This wasn't something I ever thought about going into collecting. It's interesting to see IBM's many approaches.

I love that finish on Model Fs though, especially my XT.

I got rid of all my XTs years ago. 5-10 years ago they were hard to sell for more than $30-$35, and before Soarer's firmware became available you could hardly get more than $10-$15 for one.

But if I remember correctly, the surface "pebbling" was much larger and more pronounced than on the other Fs.

Yes, it is. I got mine for something like $40-45 because somebody had snipped the cable on the poor thing.

Did you already replace it?

[Maledicted]

I love that finish on Model Fs though, especially my XT.

I got rid of all my XTs years ago. 5-10 years ago they were hard to sell for more than $30-$35, and before Soarer's firmware became available you could hardly get more than $10-$15 for one.

But if I remember correctly, the surface "pebbling" was much larger and more pronounced than on the other Fs.

Yes, it is. I got mine for something like $40-45 because somebody had snipped the cable on the poor thing.

Did you already replace it?

The cable? Yeah. I did that immediately after getting it, since I wanted to be able to test it. It is the reason I built my first Soarer's converter, to test with. I bought a nice Hosa midi cable that I snipped in half and soldered in. I love having excuses to use those things with keyboards, be it adding 5 pin din sockets directly to a board's case, or splicing in a cable. They're really high quality rubberized cables with beefy metal ends on them. The connectors are practically identical to the ones on the old Unitek K151L keyboards, interestingly.

[jacethesaltsculptor]

I love that finish on Model Fs though, especially my XT.

I got rid of all my XTs years ago. 5-10 years ago they were hard to sell for more than $30-$35, and before Soarer's firmware became available you could hardly get more than $10-$15 for one.

But if I remember correctly, the surface "pebbling" was much larger and more pronounced than on the other Fs.

Yes, it is. I got mine for something like $40-45 because somebody had snipped the cable on the poor thing.

Did you already replace it?

The cable? Yeah. I did that immediately after getting it, since I wanted to be able to test it. It is the reason I built my first Soarer's converter, to test with. I bought a nice Hosa midi cable that I snipped in half and soldered in. I love having excuses to use those things with keyboards, be it adding 5 pin din sockets directly to a board's case, or splicing in a cable. They're really high quality rubberized cables with beefy metal ends on them. The connectors are practically identical to the ones on the old Unitek K151L keyboards, interestingly.
[/quote]

I wonder if 5 Pin DINs all came from that era, and they lingered in sound since there was no reason to update, and didn't in PC's because there was? I love the connector, it's built well and lasts. I can see after looking up Hosa why you'd want to use their cables.

I had to look up the Unitek, but that connector on it is amazing. All metal on the end. I'm in love.

[fohat.digs]

All metal on the end. I'm in love.

I wish that I could provide details, but I can't. It has been many years ago.

You probably noticed that the 240 degree DIN end on the 122-key F terminal cable is threaded. A corresponding female cable exists with the matching thread, I have one.

I fished it out of a crate of weird cables for $1. I cut off the other end and wired it to a Teensy, it looks exactly like the other terminal but opposite in gender. I wish I could tell you what to call it or how to search for it.

[jacethesaltsculptor]

All metal on the end. I'm in love.

I wish that I could provide details, but I can't. It has been many years ago.

You probably noticed that the 240 degree DIN end on the 122-key F terminal cable is threaded. A corresponding female cable exists with the matching thread, I have one.

I fished it out of a crate of weird cables for $1. I cut off the other end and wired it to a Teensy, it looks exactly like the other terminal but opposite in gender. I wish I could tell you what to call it or how to search for it.

  I have a new quest. I wanna see if I can find one, My F needs it's other half.