OTD Compatible PCB- Help Me Get It Working! :D

[HPE1000]

So I am probably going to need some help getting this PCB working. Step 1 is just figuring out if it even works. It supports backlighting which I would like to get working, and I need to get a USB cable working for it.

Also not sure what switches I will use, I got FEI switches but I am considering maybe something else, really not sure. Basically all of my boards are linear these days so maybe I should switch it up?

Here is what the port looks like now:


It had this thing before but I desoldered it:


I'm guessing it was the right move to take that off? I'm fine just wiring in a USB cable directly to it, but do you think I could find a similar pin breakout part that would fit all 5 pins? Unless I am just not getting it, shouldn't I be using that far left ground hole for USB? And I am assuming the VBS port is like VCC?

Okay I think that is enough stupid questions for today. I will clean up the PCB later, its kinda dirty.

[suicidal_orange]

A USB connection only needs 4 pins, the extra ground can be attached to the shield in the cable.  Looks like both GND pads are connected to the resistor below the 103 so not much point doing both.  As 3 labels match VBS must be VCC but who knows what it stands for...

There is no right or wrong but if you don't have a connector to fit in that socket and you are good enough at desoldering you'd may as well take it off.  If you measure the spacing between the holes you will be able to find similar connectors, or you can just hardwire a cable.  The board won't know the difference.

[HPE1000]

A USB connection only needs 4 pins, the extra ground can be attached to the shield in the cable.  Looks like both GND pads are connected to the resistor below the 103 so not much point doing both.  As 3 labels match VBS must be VCC but who knows what it stands for...

There is no right or wrong but if you don't have a connector to fit in that socket and you are good enough at desoldering you'd may as well take it off.  If you measure the spacing between the holes you will be able to find similar connectors, or you can just hardwire a cable.  The board won't know the difference.

Yeah I have it off right now. Will probably just wire it straight to the board because I can't make it a true detachable cable anyway, not much real benefit from having it detach inside of the case. I guess I will just go ahead and buy a usb cable that I can cut up and wire into this and go from there.

[notflipperdan420]

Looks like a 356N MK2 PCB. It uses a ps2 cable, not usb. You can source ps2 cables from OG Cherry boards.

Also the thing you had on there before is like a hotswap socket for the cable. You're fine off without it. Just solder on a PS2 cable first to test it first before doing anything else.

[HPE1000]

Looks like a 356N MK2 PCB. It uses a ps2 cable, not usb. You can source ps2 cables from OG Cherry boards.

Also the thing you had on there before is like a hotswap socket for the cable. You're fine off without it. Just solder on a PS2 cable first to test it first before doing anything else.

It isnt an official OTD pcb, it was a GB that was run on taobao years ago and it is USB and LED compatible. Note the LED holes instead of diode holes. I'll have more pics of the PCB later. 

[HPE1000]

So here are more pics of the PCB and the plate.




The stabilizer stickers are pretty cool, have never seen that before. I am probably going to remove them though because they are kinda peeling off at this point so I will just replace it with some electrical tape like I usually do.



Looks pretty high in copper, really cool. I am going to polish it up later.



Example of some polishing.

[HPE1000]

So- I just tried to wire up a USB cable to it. A few LEDs on the back of the PCB started blinking for a while then it errors out and ends up with this. I'm sure nothing fun is going to come from this point on.

[HPE1000]

ok so it does actually matter which ground hole I use. I moved the ground over one and swapped the green and white wire and everything is working now!


maybe one day this thread will be useful for someone but it might be all working now

[LightningXI]

ok so it does actually matter which ground hole I use. I moved the ground over one and swapped the green and white wire and everything is working now!


maybe one day this thread will be useful for someone but it might be all working now

Definitely post all the resulting setup so we can see what was done right! Always good to have a future reference...

Also if there's a link to said taobao buy, or at least any more info!

Sadly, not that I own a Corsa anyway... In my dreams, maybe.

[vegs]

Good job on the cable! Also remember to attach it to the PCB with a cable tie to give it some strain relief

[HPE1000]

ok so it does actually matter which ground hole I use. I moved the ground over one and swapped the green and white wire and everything is working now!


maybe one day this thread will be useful for someone but it might be all working now

Definitely post all the resulting setup so we can see what was done right! Always good to have a future reference...

Also if there's a link to said taobao buy, or at least any more info!

Sadly, not that I own a Corsa anyway... In my dreams, maybe.

If that link still existed I wouldn't have as many problems

I almost tried to proxy one of these years ago. I'm assuming all the documents related to this were on that taobao listing, but it has long since been removed from taobao.

Good job on the cable! Also remember to attach it to the PCB with a cable tie to give it some strain relief

Will do, I have a nicer usb cable that I am going to be using with this. It is silver and braided, I just hope it actually fits through the hole in the back of the case.



EDIT:
And funny enough I was offered one of these PCBs and an Alu plate like 2 years ago but I turned it down. I completely forgot about that, so I am going to try to go back and see if that person has any information about this thing and I will update this thread if so. I'll just turn this into a wiki sort of page if I can find any meaningful info about this thing.

[slayer12]

Look like you have some issues with the controller/firmware.
I used to have the same issue with my OTD The Cheat (using Aikon) a while back and have it resolved by replacing the controller and flashing Aikon firmware and bootloader.

Firstly, you should try to re-flash the firmware/bootloader.
If it's not working then try to replace the MCU with a new one (and still need to know how to flash Aikon Firmware/Bootloader into a blank MCU)

[HPE1000]

Look like you have some issues with the controller/firmware.
I used to have the same issue with my OTD The Cheat (using Aikon) a while back and have it resolved by replacing the controller and flashing Aikon firmware and bootloader.

Firstly, you should try to re-flash the firmware/bootloader.
If it's not working then try to replace the MCU with a new one (and still need to know how to flash Aikon Firmware/Bootloader into a blank MCU)

Hey

I actually did get the PCB working so everything should be good to go now. My only goal now is maybe finding more info about the PCB for the purposes of maybe programming it one day. This is not an official OTD pcb but rather a recreation that is compatible with the OTD switch spacing.

I'm not going to build this board for a bit though, because I need to decide what finish I want to put on the high copper bass plate (it is temping to let it patina or put an artificial patina on it) and I need the mint green YOK switches to be restocked.

FWIW there is also another OTD replacement pcb that is being or will be made soon, I might ask around and see if I can get in on that as well.


That is impressive the amount of work you did to fix your PCB though, I can't imagine that was easy at all to get back up and working.