Hey, thank you Maledicted, funny I was just reading your discussion with qeebored.
You're welcome. I can't say that surprises me. I seem to be responding to a lot of these new member threads recently.
Was living with my family at the time and by brother who has a severe disability basically emptied a pint of water (by mistake) into the keyboard and by the time I realised it had been sitting in the water for a little while. I still have it, just in case there was anything that could be done.
Was it plugged in any of that time? If not, if all of the water was able to evaporate, it may just work. I imagine that if it has sat all of this time there may even be mold inside though. The Model M's plate sandwich is held together by a plastic barrel plate and metal backplate, which is attached to the barrel plate by plastic rivets. Between these is the membrane and a rubber mat. There's very little space for liquids to evaporate from, and the sandwich can't be disassembled without drilling out all of those rivets and replacing them with nuts and bolts. Worst case, I believe that Unicomp sells replacement membranes, and even controllers, should either be necessary.
I actually really enjoyed the K70, haven't tried any earlier versions. As for the speed silvers themselves, I quickly got used to the light actuation and stopped making many mistakes, if anything it made me a more accurate typer. They're not the smoothest experience but they're pretty good and when I'm in the flow it's not something I really notice anymore, I would certainly choose them over reds and I would like to get hold of them outside of a board to see what affect lube and changing out parts would have.
Granted for more casual games I agree something with a lower actuation point and stronger springs would be more pleasant, I was playing quite intense shooters like Modern Warfare (2019) when I had my K70 and for that kind of fast, competitive play the speed silvers are great.
Games like that are why I already don't like how sensitive MX reds are, personally. They actuate by my having just rested my fingers on the keys. I am pretty heavy-handed in general though as a typist.
The browns in the logitech are odd, can barely feel the tactility at all, and even then only if I pay very close attention - haven't tried their linears to compare though. The worst thing is that the keycaps don't have that secure of a fitting, and coupled with the admittedly minor stem wobble, the typing can feel a little like playing hopscotch down a path of wobbly concrete tiles. If you shake the keyboard side-to-side it's basically a rattle.
Ah, I figured you meant MX browns. I know Logitech has used MX in the past. I just tried the Kailh Choc browns again, which are branded by Logitech as Logitech GL switches. If you don't like the lack of tactility of Choc brown, just wait until you try MX. Some of us like to refer to them as scratchy reds. lol. If you want to try your hand with a soldering iron, you could replace them with some clickbar Choc switches, which were actually the origin of the click bar mechanism of the clicky switches of the box family and seem to me to be very nice. Their linears are pretty smooth too.
Yeah, Choc caps are a weird design ... probably mostly out of necessity in terms of being low profile.
Tactility is much more noticeable in the pandas and for typing up my notes or really doing anything other than gaming they've been delightful so far, I almost look for excuses to type with them and it's got to the point where I'm not sure if I prefer buckling spring or tactiles.
If you've already found a switch that you're drawn to just for the sake of feeling and/or hearing them, you must be doing something right. I you like buckling spring and have not tried a Model F, it may be something to look into. They're not cheap, but Ellipse is currently shipping modern reproductions of the F62 and F77 4704 Model F keyboards, which had
very thick solid zinc cases. The Model F's capacitive buckling spring is usually a little more pingy and high-pitched than the Model M's membrane buckling spring, but they're theoretically more long-lasting/reliable, very easy to take apart and tweak/service, much smoother/consistent, lighter, and actuate/click lower (depending on if you use Model F or M caps).
Yes, those are the only box switches I've ordered for now, as I said in qeebored's post I'm on the lookout for something that resembles buckling spring and from the little digging I've done some have said those two are pretty close. Still would like to try the others you've mentioned at some point.
Yeah, box whites would probably be the closest you'll come to buckling spring in terms of crisp and refined, yet very slight tactility. The tactile event comes on suddenly though, and there's really not any buildup in spring pressure before that happens like you may expect from buckling spring. The mechanism just works far too differently. Box jades are probably closer to SKCM blue Alps (when talking about vintage/dead switch types). The tactile event is relatively stiff and the overall sound of the switch is nicely bassy for a clicky. Box whites are pretty high-pitched. Box pinks are a bit of a compromise. They have an intermediate click bar and relatively light spring, so they're only slightly more tactile than box whites, but also have a surprisingly bassy sound signature, like jades.
Thanks! Who knows, maybe I'll be able to make some myself one day.
You've probably come to the right place for that. We've got a lot of people designing their own things on here.
