Author Topic: Help - Broken 5-Pin USB Connector - KUL ES-87 (Read 7294 times)

bmilcs · « **on:** Sat, 06 February 2016, 17:57:12 »

What order do these wires go into the 5-pin PCB white connector? From Right to Left?

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #1 on:** Sat, 06 February 2016, 18:19:08 »

Does it look like this? From the first pic you can see that red is on the left with the slit side of the connector towards you and wires out the top, from the second you can tell where green is (looks black in the first pic)

Hopefully you remember which way up the connector fits...

appleonama · « **Reply #2 on:** Sat, 06 February 2016, 18:28:52 »

buy new connector or solder it back? not really much to this issue. just seems like you tugged it a little too hard

bmilcs · « **Reply #3 on:** Sat, 06 February 2016, 18:36:28 »

My issue is that I don't know the order in which to plug them back in. Which wire goes to which pin on the board?

Also, I removed my spacebar switch and can't figure out how to remove the spacebar stabilizers. The metal bar is underneath the PCB. I've read ripsters guides but can't figure out how to get it out to clip them.

bmilcs · « **Reply #4 on:** Sat, 06 February 2016, 18:37:01 »

Quote from: suicidal_orange on Sat, 06 February 2016, 18:19:08

Does it look like this? From the first pic you can see that red is on the left with the slit side of the connector towards you and wires out the top, from the second you can tell where green is (looks black in the first pic)

Hopefully you remember which way up the connector fits...

Show Image

Show Image

Perfect! Thank you.

Now, as for my spacebar stabilizers. How do I remove them so I can mod them? My spacebar switch is desoldered and removed.

bmilcs · « **Reply #5 on:** Sat, 06 February 2016, 18:50:01 »

DSC_8858.jpg by bmilcs, on Flickr

DSC_8855.jpg by bmilcs, on Flickr

Here it is. Cherry MX out. Stabs being difficult as ever.

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #6 on:** Sat, 06 February 2016, 18:55:09 »

If they're PCB mount you'll need to squeeze one of the sets of pins on the bottom then whether PCB or Plate mount you'll need to lift the front or back (whichever the wire isn't) of the stab housings and the other side should follow with the wire going through the slit in the plate.

bmilcs · « **Reply #7 on:** Sat, 06 February 2016, 18:58:21 »

Quote from: suicidal_orange on Sat, 06 February 2016, 18:55:09

If they're PCB mount you'll need to squeeze one of the sets of pins on the bottom then whether PCB or Plate mount you'll need to lift the front or back (whichever the wire isn't) of the stab housings and the other side should follow with the wire going through the slit in the plate.

Got it! Thanks!

bmilcs · « **Reply #8 on:** Sat, 06 February 2016, 19:54:33 »

Arg I don't know what to do. I can't fit the pins individually. They won't go in.

Where do I buy a new connector?

bmilcs · « **Reply #9 on:** Sat, 06 February 2016, 20:29:38 »

Quote from: appleonama on Sat, 06 February 2016, 18:28:52

buy new connector or solder it back? not really much to this issue. just seems like you tugged it a little too hard

Yeah. So frustrating.

Where can I pick up a new connector for the KUL ES-87? I'm very new to the scene. I was able to desolder, lube and re-solder it back. Sadly, I just can't plug the damn thing back in!

This is my absolute first time soldering so I'm a bit iffy on resoldering the wire. The space bar mod is a first of many lined up. I want to do a full ergo clear

bmilcs · « **Reply #10 on:** Sat, 06 February 2016, 20:34:58 »

http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?R=87369-0500virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-87369-0500

I found this but I am not confident I'll be able to reattach it easily. Is this compatible with KUL?

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #11 on:** Sat, 06 February 2016, 20:52:19 »

Check the size in the datasheet matches what you need (connector size and pin spacing) if it does and it looks right it should fit, keyboards don't use special connectors.

I would think it would be easier to use the old connector though - are you putting the flat sides of the metal bits with the sticking out bits on the side with the plastic tabs?

Alternately you could just remove the plastic housing on the board and solder the wires directly to the pins.

bmilcs · « **Reply #12 on:** Sun, 07 February 2016, 09:19:26 »

Quote from: suicidal_orange on Sat, 06 February 2016, 20:52:19

Check the size in the datasheet matches what you need (connector size and pin spacing) if it does and it looks right it should fit, keyboards don't use special connectors.

I would think it would be easier to use the old connector though - are you putting the flat sides of the metal bits with the sticking out bits on the side with the plastic tabs?

Alternately you could just remove the plastic housing on the board and solder the wires directly to the pins.

What data sheet? Sorry I am so clueless. This is all new to me.

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #13 on:** Sun, 07 February 2016, 09:23:38 »

On component websites they always link a datasheet - on Mouser it's at the bottom of the product page.

There may be lots of similar connectors in the datasheet so you need to note the "manufacturer part number" from the product page to check you're looking at the right one

bmilcs · « **Reply #14 on:** Sun, 07 February 2016, 09:40:11 »

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/276/0873690500_CRIMP_HOUSINGS-175959.pdf

I really don't know what to look for. I found this link on reddit and am praying it'll work in my situation.

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #15 on:** Sun, 07 February 2016, 09:47:38 »

What a crap datasheet! The useful bit is in a hidden link near the top Drawing (PDF) - compare the measurements of your connector with the measurements on there.

bmilcs · « **Reply #16 on:** Sun, 07 February 2016, 10:06:04 »

I've looked at this. It has 6 little holes tho. Don't I need 5?

bmilcs · « **Reply #17 on:** Sun, 07 February 2016, 10:14:34 »

I just want to thank you for spending time helping me. I know my questions must seem very annoying; I'm just distraught and using a rubber domed keyboard is killing me lol.

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #18 on:** Sun, 07 February 2016, 10:25:39 »

No problem, everyone has to learn sometime

In the drawings the width is labeled as C B and A so you need to look the actual sizes up in the table in the bottom right. The part number from the product page is 87369-0500 so you're looking at the 87369-050* row, which is for 5 CKT (circuits - meaning pins) The other sizes are the same no matter how many pins it has, so those are written on the drawings.

bmilcs · « **Reply #19 on:** Sun, 07 February 2016, 11:47:40 »

Alrighty. I am assuming the size I need is the same as the intact connector attached to the case of my board. I'm scared to remove it :X

The broken one is lost for good. I have made quite a mess working on this project.

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #20 on:** Sun, 07 February 2016, 12:11:58 »

Well the socket has to be slightly bigger than C (11.74mm) wide and about 6mm tall off the board, you can measure without taking it off but it should slide off if that would be easier (wiggle one side out then the other)

There aren't that many PCB connectors so if seems close go for it - if it doesn't fit there's always the hardwiring option, unless you open it up again you won't know it's not pretty inside

bmilcs · « **Reply #21 on:** Sun, 07 February 2016, 12:25:14 »

Alrighty

So it's as simple as pushing those individual wires back into it and done is done?

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #22 on:** Sun, 07 February 2016, 12:37:46 »

Yeah, they're a bit fiddly so you probably want to line them all up just inside the slots then push them all in properly, making sure the little tab on the metal bits goes on the side of the plastic with the holes as this is what keeps them in place.

bmilcs · « **Reply #23 on:** Sun, 07 February 2016, 21:44:15 »

Quote from: suicidal_orange on Sun, 07 February 2016, 12:37:46

Yeah, they're a bit fiddly so you probably want to line them all up just inside the slots then push them all in properly, making sure the little tab on the metal bits goes on the side of the plastic with the holes as this is what keeps them in place.

I must be losing my mind because I can't remove the other end either.

Please tell me I'm not insane, unable and dumb?

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #24 on:** Mon, 08 February 2016, 06:16:46 »

I'll quote someone from a PM about unplugging their cable so you don't feel so bad.

Quote

I just remember loosing layers of skin trying to pull off the original connector on the board and the idea of doing it again pains me haha

What you need to do is get your fingernails in the sides where there's a little gap then pull one side then the other until it comes out. If it's really stuck you could gently pull the front edge upwards away from the PCB to check it's not glued, but the point of connectors is that they come off so you'd hope not!

bmilcs · « **Reply #25 on:** Mon, 08 February 2016, 07:51:41 »

Quote from: suicidal_orange on Mon, 08 February 2016, 06:16:46

I'll quote someone from a PM about unplugging their cable so you don't feel so bad.

Quote
I just remember loosing layers of skin trying to pull off the original connector on the board and the idea of doing it again pains me haha

What you need to do is get your fingernails in the sides where there's a little gap then pull one side then the other until it comes out. If it's really stuck you could gently pull the front edge upwards away from the PCB to check it's not glued, but the point of connectors is that they come off so you'd hope not!

This is exactly what I've been trying. I tried fingernails on both sides & top/bottom... small jeweler's screwdrivers... you name it.

I'm big dude... this shouldn't be such an issue lol. I couldn't see any glue when I inspected it and took those photographs.

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #26 on:** Mon, 08 February 2016, 08:03:32 »

Little fiddly things are always the hardest

)

Have you tried really pulling up one the front? Might be a coincidence but it looks like the slit across might be in the perfect place to slot over the top lip.

Dare I ask why you're trying to remove that end anyway when the other end didn't go well?

bmilcs · « **Reply #27 on:** Mon, 08 February 2016, 11:09:45 »

Quote from: suicidal_orange on Mon, 08 February 2016, 08:03:32

Little fiddly things are always the hardest )

Have you tried really pulling up one the front? Might be a coincidence but it looks like the slit across might be in the perfect place to slot over the top lip.

Dare I ask why you're trying to remove that end anyway when the other end didn't go well?

I can't decide if I should replace the connector or solder it and the unplug from the other end

Man I wish I just modded it, leaving that connector plugged in.

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #28 on:** Tue, 09 February 2016, 02:18:16 »

Well how often are you going to want to disconnect it? If you do all the mods you want now while it's open hopefully you'll never have to. If you do need to take it apart again it looks like the small PCB comes off without issue so it wouldn't be hard to work with that dangling off.

bmilcs · « **Reply #29 on:** Tue, 09 February 2016, 06:24:50 »

If I am to solder it, how would I go about it? Would I rip the connector piece off and solder it to the points come out of the side of it near the letter labels?

bmilcs · « **Reply #30 on:** Tue, 09 February 2016, 09:30:54 »

JEEEESUS. I finally got the other end out of the socket. It required like pulling it towards me instead of away from the socket itself. Took waaaay too much force. Alright, now that I know I can remove it if need me, should I waste $10 hoping that the mouser piece is correct?

bmilcs · « **Reply #31 on:** Tue, 09 February 2016, 09:44:46 »

bmilcs · « **Reply #32 on:** Tue, 09 February 2016, 09:45:44 »

There it is!

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #33 on:** Tue, 09 February 2016, 11:59:11 »

Haha, that looks pretty mangled but it's off!

You can solder to the back of the connector or the pins in it, whichever's easier. The way I see it is your $10 buys you a couple more days on a rubberdome

)

bmilcs · « **Reply #34 on:** Tue, 09 February 2016, 14:15:45 »

Quote from: suicidal_orange on Tue, 09 February 2016, 11:59:11

Haha, that looks pretty mangled but it's off!

You can solder to the back of the connector or the pins in it, whichever's easier. The way I see it is your $10 buys you a couple more days on a rubberdome )

Aye! I'm scared though. I'm not 100% on which wire goes where. and I've never soldered wires .. let alone this small.

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #35 on:** Tue, 09 February 2016, 18:11:10 »

If you buy the connector and wire it up wrong you'll be out $10 for the connector plus a keyboard once you plug it in, if you solder it wrong you're only out a keyboard - you get one shot at the order of the wires either way.

The connector does save you from soldering though, so if that's something you're worried about it's worth buying one, it's not like you can get much else for $10 these days.

bmilcs · « **Reply #36 on:** Wed, 10 February 2016, 08:28:02 »

This is true.

bmilcs · « **Reply #37 on:** Wed, 10 February 2016, 10:21:48 »

Alright.

I measured the portion that is housed within the other connector. It's 2mm by 7mm. Is 2mm it's 'pitch'? Would you say that mouser one is definitely it?

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #38 on:** Wed, 10 February 2016, 12:26:12 »

Pitch is the distance between the pins not the height, though they may be the same.

If I Remember the datasheet correctly it was 11mm wide - doesn't sound like it's going to fit in a 7mm hole to me!

bmilcs · « **Reply #39 on:** Wed, 10 February 2016, 21:47:49 »

Thank you god! KUL got back to me and is going to send me a whole new wire. So stoked!

Now, I'm debating on getting different springs. 68g Ergo clears (24k from mechanicalkeyboard.com) are too heavy. I am thinking about 60 or 62 now.

Are these the same SPiT Korean springs offered in that group buy?

suicidal_orange · « **Reply #40 on:** Thu, 11 February 2016, 02:10:43 »

Nice, that's one way to be sure it will fit

As long as both springs are measured at the same point (activation or bottom out) they should be comparable no matter who made them, and activation would depend what switch they're in so most are sold by bottom out weight. Give them a go!

bmilcs · « **Reply #41 on:** Fri, 18 March 2016, 12:10:57 »

FINALLY! The wire arrived. Eagerly ripped open the package and now I realize that...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/52658307@N03/24494118349/

^ The bottom portion of the white molex connector... is still stuck in the port and so I can't plug it in LOL. I have tried using mini pliers to get a firm grip to wiggle it out but no luck.

Any ideas on how I can get this mangled plastic out of it?

Spaceman1200 · « **Reply #42 on:** Sat, 19 March 2016, 01:05:03 »

Have you tried squeezing the end of the broken connector off?

bmilcs · « **Reply #43 on:** Sat, 19 March 2016, 15:27:21 »

I should have updated you guys. I was able to finally remove it using a sewing needle to poke a hole in the broken piece and then a flathead to push it out

I am actually typing on it now. Lubed switches are beautiful but I am not a fan of 78g springs lol. Are there any authentic mx clear springs sold anywhere? I hear SPRiT's 100g are fairly close.


120/100g linear Zealio R1 GMK Hyperfuse 'Split everything' perfection	MX Clear SA Hack'd by Geeks EasyAVR mod

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Author Topic: Help - Broken 5-Pin USB Connector - KUL ES-87 (Read 7294 times)