Desoldering Manufactured Keyboard

[jamiemcl001]

Hi there,

I'm very new to the DIY mechanical keyboard community and was looking for some entry-level advice if possible. I've just inherited a second Filco Majestouch and am looking at swapping the stock switches from them. I've actually attempted to replace the switches in a previous Majestouch and had quite a lot of problems with desoldering the switches in that one. I've thankfully just invested in a temperature controlled soldering iron so I can get more control over the heat being applied to the solder and connectors.

My question is - is it worth getting something like a desoldering gun, and if so does anyone have any recommendations for a decently priced one available in the UK? If not does anyone happen to have any advice for removing the solder from a manufactured board without frying it?

I hope this is the correct place to ask this question - if not then I'll be happy to move it to the appropriate section.

Thanks for your help in advance.
Jamie,

[pears]

I've done this on a Ducky Shine 3. The issue I've had with most boards is the solder used seems to be sub-par. What I do is typically put a small amount of higher quality solder on each switch first and then go through and desolder. I use a $15 solder sucker which seems to work fine once you flow the solder paste with better quality solder.

[4sStylZ]

I think the previous message provide good advices. I also use a cheap desolder pump and I don’t think a better tool can help me because my main issue isn’t related to the tool.

Sometimes, switchs "legs" / pin (Sorry I don’t know the word) can be factory bend (AEK2 and Apple Standard keyboards). You need to take care of those and un-bend them with a tweezer while using the iron. Never force when the solder is cold else you will destroy traces of the PCB.

Also don’t use the iron at maximum temp. I am not a pro what I suggest  is to focus on having the minimum temperature to have the solder liquid. For me, 380° seem’s good.

[Tactile]

I've done this on a Ducky Shine 3. The issue I've had with most boards is the solder used seems to be sub-par. What I do is typically put a small amount of higher quality solder on each switch first and then go through and desolder.
...

It's not sub-par solder, it's lead free solder and you're right that it's harder to work with. Your trick of adding solder first, then de-soldering is an old technique used by lots of electronic guys. When you do this is the flux from your solder makes things go smoother. You're just adding flux. You can do it your way or you could just buy some flux, which makes everything solder related work better.

Flux is available in paste or liquid, in bottles or even flux pens to put just a small amount where you need it. Just as you have to buy the right solder for electronics, you need the correct flux also. You don't want flux made for soldering stained glass windows or plumbing. MG Chemicals have several products. Here's one good choice:

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Rosin-Paste-Amber/dp/B01MS04SO4/ref=sr_1_36

[DoctorNunu]

I think the previous message provide good advices. I also use a cheap desolder pump and I don’t think a better tool can help me because my main issue isn’t related to the tool.

Sometimes, switchs "legs" / pin (Sorry I don’t know the word) can be factory bend (AEK2 and Apple Standard keyboards). You need to take care of those and un-bend them with a tweezer while using the iron. Never force when the solder is cold else you will destroy traces of the PCB.

Also don’t use the iron at maximum temp. I am not a pro what I suggest  is to focus on having the minimum temperature to have the solder liquid. For me, 380° seem’s good.

Damn 380 is very high, I never go higher than 340 tops even with lead free solder.
But whatever works for you

[Steezus]

I think the previous message provide good advices. I also use a cheap desolder pump and I don’t think a better tool can help me because my main issue isn’t related to the tool.

Sometimes, switchs "legs" / pin (Sorry I don’t know the word) can be factory bend (AEK2 and Apple Standard keyboards). You need to take care of those and un-bend them with a tweezer while using the iron. Never force when the solder is cold else you will destroy traces of the PCB.

Also don’t use the iron at maximum temp. I am not a pro what I suggest  is to focus on having the minimum temperature to have the solder liquid. For me, 380° seem’s good.

Damn 380 is very high, I never go higher than 340 tops even with lead free solder.
But whatever works for you

Factory solder typically requires higher temps. Even on custom boards I'll go with 400+ with my desolder gun but that's more so to make sure it doesn't clog.

[Riverman]

It's not sub-par solder, it's lead free solder and you're right that it's harder to work with.

You're splitting hairs there.    My 73 year-old former electrical engineer father keeps a few rolls of old solder around because it's so much easier to work with, and doesn't create "whiskers", which are a problem with some electronics, given enough years.  He also uses a cheap desoldering pump for things like this.

[jamiemcl001]

Hi all - thank you very much for the quick and detailed feedback - I really appreciate it. So my main takeaway has been that I need to add flux to the factory solder in order to make it more easily removable with a relatively cheap pump. That's perfect. 

I also tried to look up a little bit more and was a bit stuck between a "desolder braid" and "flux paste" - do they both give the same benefits in terms of desoldering? Or is one method more preferred than the other?

Thank you again for the really quick and detailed responses - you're making this much easier for me to get into the world of mechanical keyboards .

Jamie

[Henrythewound]

I believe the desoldering braid or wick has flux in it to help reflow the old solder and the braid soaks it up. Videos I have seen indicate you put the wick on top and press the soldering iron into it. You have to have enough heat to heat the solder through the wick.

[tuxkey]

I believe the desoldering braid or wick has flux in it to help reflow the old solder and the braid soaks it up. Videos I have seen indicate you put the wick on top and press the soldering iron into it. You have to have enough heat to heat the solder through the wick.

i'm curios to know how it all ended ?
not to long ago i was in the same kind of boat needed to de-solder a board but wanted a good solution so i bought a "Aoyue 474A++" de-soldering station..
it seemed that watching youtube vids of people de-soldering is one thing but doing it your self is a complete different thing.
Also i needed to de-solder switches that had led's that's a pain in the ....
ahh well i did ruin a couple of switches .. but that was my spare pcb so no worries.. i now learned how to de-solder like a pro without damaging pcb or even one switch i took me a while.. having two hotswap boards i now prefer solder boards because it's so easy to de-solder .. it takes time to clean the pcb after wards from all the flux and if it's not a switch with led's it's even easier...
i use liquid flux that is save for electronics even using a de-soldering machine having de-soldering braid is a good idea when led's are involved ..

Would love to hear about your experience.. 

[4sStylZ]

Damn 380 is very high, I never go higher than 340 tops even with lead free solder.
But whatever works for you

Haha, I am a total amateur so maybe it’s high. Also my solder iron is cheap and just have a potenciometer who indicate 380° so maybe it’s not the real temp. Also I have to deal with some oxydation issue and I correct them with a highter temp. This is probably a bad way to do it.

[JinTea]

Damn 380 is very high, I never go higher than 340 tops even with lead free solder.
But whatever works for you

Haha, I am a total amateur so maybe it’s high. Also my solder iron is cheap and just have a potenciometer who indicate 380° so maybe it’s not the real temp. Also I have to deal with some oxydation issue and I correct them with a highter temp. This is probably a bad way to do it.

What's the oxidation issue you're having? I haven't desoldered a keyboard yet, but I want to make sure I don't run into any unforseen issues. Would the issue be resolved with a solder iron with a temp reader built in?