Help me pick TKL or 65%

[SackOHammers]

I've got iKBC MF108 (work computer) and GMMK full size (personal computer).
Now I need a gaming keyboard for my gaming computer.

Criteria:
TKL (aka 87 key or 80%) preferred
or a compromise to a 65%(aka 68 key)
USB-C
Metal chassis
Metal switch plate (prefer steel > brass > aluminum)
Cherry Red Silent
(Prefer floating style bezel, but not a hard requirement)

Not to sidetrack the issue, but I think a 70% would be perfect.  It doesn't exist.  Basically a TKL but without the Function keys.
Since that doesn't exist, I'd like to get a TKL.  But I haven't yet found a TKL that meets all my criteria.  Maybe you know of one I am missing.  That would be great.
If it existed, I think the iKBC MF87 V.3 would be perfect.  But they just discontinued the V.2 (micro-USB).  None in stock anymore anyway.  They do not currently have a V.3 planned for production.  If it existed, I would buy that one.

I'm considering compromising down to a 68 key (65%) keyboard.  Right now, I think there are two keyboards that meet my criteria.
1) Durgod Hades 68
2) Ducky Mecha SF

Both of them have some annoyances.  Ducky doesn't have all the keys I'd like.  They both have weird size shift keys.  The right-side ctrl and alt keys are a weird size.   Making getting keycaps annoying.
Issue  with stabilizer rattle on the Durgod, etc.  So these would be a compromise from a TKL 80%.

I've eliminated these for various reasons:
Varmilo VA87M - plastic frame
Drop Alt (hotswap 65%) - cheesy lighting on frame
Ducky MIYA Pro - plastic
Durgod K320 87 keys - plastic switch plate
Akko 3068
Leopold FC660 and Leopold 750 - plastic
Keychron K6 Bluetooth - lower quality
Kebo DZ60
Novel Keys NK65
KPR XD87
KBD75v2 custom keyboard DIY kit
YMDK Melody

Would love to see your suggestions on keyboards I should consider.
Thanks,
Hammers

[treeleaf64]

Hard to think of anything honestly.

[treeleaf64]

Oh, I found this

In stock gray version and black version
https://kbdfans.com/collections/diy-kit/products/bella?variant=34248584757387

[Leslieann]

The Miya and Durgod K320 both have a (I assume) steel plate, the plastic you see is just a top cover to hide the switches (tall or high profile), pretty much anything larger than 60% has a metal plate of some sort, be it steel or aluminum. Without it they become a wobbly mess.

Varmillo is actually who makes the Miya for Ducky and at one time sold them under their own name (va68) and offered an aluminum and even a magnesium version. LFK also offers a programmable pcb for it and YMDK even made an aftermarket case for them.  You might be able to find one or someone selling a used one. Good luck though.


You already have a GMMK, why not a TKL GMMK?
If the Durgod uses platemount stabs they can be replaced with minimal effort, only a few switches need removing so they can be lubed. For the spacebar (and usually only the spacebar) you can often remove Cherry plate style without removing the switch, but not always in one piece, then install Costar (without removing the switch). Spacebars tend to usually the the worst stab.

other options: (I can't comment as to the quality of any of these)
ABKO AR87 TKL
IDOBAO ID80  compresed TKL?  (uses 1.75 shift key like 65% and 75%, otherwise all std caps)
IDOBAO ID87  TKL
Cox Black Pearl TKL (good luck finding a US seller)
WASD also offers a TKL and aluminum case.


Couple notes..
Metal chassis options are normally pretty limited, especially during a pandemic.
Good luck on brass plate, that's pretty much only going to be found on a group order item. Frankly they're pretty rare. Group buys can literally take years.
Floating style is often called low profile, the inverse is high profile.
Type-C... mechanical keyboards are a slow moving industry as a whole, if you eliminate anything but type-c you cut out a surprising amount.

[SackOHammers]

Hey, I want to thank both of you for your thoughtful replies.  I hadn't responded yet because it was a busy day at work, AND because I was reading up on all those boards.  And weighing the pros and cons so far.

This is a hobby that, at this point, is all about pickiness.   I mean, I could grab any crappy $10 keyboard and it would work.  This is about fanaticism, enjoyment, and efficiency.   I spend all day banging away at a keyboard.  And I spend a lot of my free time enjoying games and chatting with friends all over the world.  Just like having a good bed, a good desk, and a good office chair.  A keyboard is important.  It's my main conduit of work and communication these days.  So, for me, I'm willing to get picky about the details.   And I think in this forum I've found like-minded people.
So, don't take my comments too personally if I shoot down a keyboard that might seem reasonable... for some petty reason.
But first and foremost, thanks for the suggestions in the first place.

treeleaf, the Bella looks compelling, but I don't like the layout much.  And I think it might be a tad overpriced.  I'm not afraid to spend money on something so integral to my daily life, but I don't want to overspend on something that doesn't really speak to me.   The layout is more like a 65% board but with the function keys.  The only reason why I'd prefer a TKL over a 65% are the 9 extra keys above the arrows. I don't need the function keys.  So for me, the Bella offers the same compromise as going with a 65% board.

Leslieann, fantastic. Thanks.  So many boards to look at I wasn't aware of.   And you've certainly corrected my misunderstanding of the Durgod K320.  It has a steel switchplate.  Which is fine.  I don't "need" brass. Never had one.  Would be interesting to try.  But I really like steel and as such, steel would suit me just fine.
This article gives a detailed review of the K320 and a great breakdown of its construction: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/durgod-taurus-320-tkl-keyboard/

I realize my set of constraints knocks out a lot of boards.  It's a picky list.  If I got rid of the constraint for an aluminum chassis, I would suddenly have a lot of easy and acceptable options to choose from. Like the Ducky/Varmillo Miya becomes close (if only it had a couple more buttons).
If I got rid of the constraint for USB-C, it would also add more options to the pile.  I'm sticking on that one because I want a single USB-C cable that runs to my computer.  And I want to readily swap keyboards by plugging and unplugging that one cable.  Rather than, say, having to route multiple USB cables to my computer and dealing with multiple ports, etc.

The GMMK TKL.  I've got this full size here.  It very much feels like a plastic keyboard.  There's flex in it.  In fact, it is deformed.  There's a bow in it.  Would I be able to put it on my desk, put the exact switches I wanted in it, shim the plate-mount stabs to reduce their noise?  Yes.  I would be able to do that, and I would be able to type all day on it.  And I would be silly-in-the-head to say it was a bad keyboard.  Far form it.  But, if I could find it in an aluminum case, I'd be sold.

Durgod K320 also seems a solid choice, but if only the case were aluminum instead of ABS plastic.  Otherwise, looks a solid choice.

I'd previously looked at the WASD, but their anodized aluminum versions were out of stock.  They're in stock now, but holy cow, the price premium (add on cost) for that aluminum case is more than some of these other keyboards cost outright.

The ABKO, IDOBAO, and Cox are keyboards I've never heard of.   The essence of exactly what I was hoping for by writing this thread.
I have to say, that IDOBAO ID87 TKL looks pretty compelling.  I am guessing the switch plate is aluminum like the rest of the construction.  I see holes in the PCB that look like they'd take screw in stabs.
I can pop in some silent cherry reds pretty easily since it is hot swap.  It certainly checks all the boxes and comes in cheaper than the WASD by a wide margin.

Like I mentioned, in absence of a iKBC 87MF V.3, the IDOBAO looks about as close as I can get currently get with what is available on the market and in similar price range.

So, based on your input... I'm going to have another think.  And do more reading.  And revise my short list down to:

Durgod K320
Durgod Hades
Ducky / Varmillo MIYA
IDOBAO ID87  TKL
ABKO AR87  - it's more expensive than the IDOBAO, but considering it comes with switches, keycaps, already assembled, and available from Amazon, it is comparable.  Main differences being not hot swappable and has that ugly light on the edge of the case

Thanks!
Hammers

[SackOHammers]

Hmm, if I go with magnetic cables, I could forgo the cable type requirement.
Like the Revolt magnetic USB cables (a pair of them on Amazon for $11 and change).  If I could get one in USB-C and one in micro or mini, it would give me the flexibility I seek there.
Just need to make sure it's a quality cable that can handle the power to drive the board.  Some of those with LED lights might take a little more power than the cheaper magnetic USB cables would provide.

[Leslieann]

Hmm, if I go with magnetic cables, I could forgo the cable type requirement.

This.
I won't go back, I use the Netdot gen2 another person here uses the gen10.
Beware, not all are created equal, most are low power and some only have data on one side. Gen 2 is one side for data, Gen 10 I think is data on both sides. Be sure to check comments to be sure. It's not a big deal really.


I forgot to mention, many designs are currently out of stock and/or being redesigned to have rgb or type C or hot swap, the industry is in transition. On top of that you have Covid which is raising absolute hell on things, first it knocked out manufacturing and shipping and then we had the stimulus and it seems everyone went and bought keyboards and computers with those checks, wiping out inventory. We're quickly reaching a point it could be next June before the mech industry gets back to normal and that's if Covid disappeared today.


Regarding choices, for what we pay for these things, we're allowed to be petty.
The GMMK's design doesn't lend itself to a full size, it's just too large for a the construction method used. The TKL is plenty stout (mine is straight). By the time you get to 60% even plastic is plenty sturdy for a case, but a thin aluminum plate for a full size, yeah I can see that being an issue.

Also you knocked out the VA68 for not enough keys... You do realize it's the same number of keys as a 65%, right (+/- 1 depending on design)? If you need more switches you may want to reconsider the 65% and stick to 75% and TKL.

ABKO... I really considered this (remember you can always turn off the lights). It seems quite well made, I suspect it's made in the same factory as the old Vortex/Tex Filco aluminum chassis they used to offer, I wouldn't be surprised if Idaboa and the Cox are also made there as well, possibly the same molds even. I haven't really taken the time to go down that rabbit hole but it isn't unreasonable based on a cursory glance. That doesn't mean there isn't any differences, they're machined after casting so minor changes can be had and quality control could be different. The ABKO seems pretty compelling for the price, especially since I refuse to spend a ton on a hot swap board. Oh, beware, some of those I mentioned are hot swap, some are soldered. Also take a look at the black version, yummy, just beware, for some reason black carries a hefty premium and if q/c is a bit less, it wills how up on black, this could also be the reason for the price difference, that or it's just Amazon sellers doing what they do.

Good luck.