Author Topic: Looking for a Custom/Pre-Built Keyboard  (Read 3526 times)

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Offline Jalberstone

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Looking for a Custom/Pre-Built Keyboard
« on: Wed, 12 October 2022, 19:17:43 »
Hi everyone! I used to be very into mechanical keyboards around 5 years ago, but am now looking for a new keyboard for work and feel a bit out of the loop with everything that has happened in the industry the past few years.

I'm looking to see if there is anyone out there that builds custom mechanical keyboards for others or if there are any good pre-built custom keyboards. I'm looking for a full-size keyboard with non-clicky but tactile switches (like browns, ergo-clears, or something better, custom or common switches, not sure what the top switches are now) and sounds really nice (looking for something that thocks haha. Willing to spend $300-$500 but can be flexible if needed to go over. Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions on custom or pre-built keyboards. Also, what are the best tactile switches nowadays. Thanks!

Also, should add that I'm not looking for any sort of backlit or fancy looking keyboard. Just a really nice keyboard with nice switches and high-quality keycaps to use for a lot of typing at work.
« Last Edit: Wed, 12 October 2022, 19:20:14 by Jalberstone »

Offline mohawk1367

  • Posts: 244
  • Location: Rochester, New York
  • Typing on: HHKB Pro Hybrid Type-S
Re: Looking for a Custom/Pre-Built Keyboard
« Reply #1 on: Thu, 13 October 2022, 12:20:07 »
Hi everyone! I used to be very into mechanical keyboards around 5 years ago, but am now looking for a new keyboard for work and feel a bit out of the loop with everything that has happened in the industry the past few years.

I'm looking to see if there is anyone out there that builds custom mechanical keyboards for others or if there are any good pre-built custom keyboards. I'm looking for a full-size keyboard with non-clicky but tactile switches (like browns, ergo-clears, or something better, custom or common switches, not sure what the top switches are now) and sounds really nice (looking for something that thocks haha. Willing to spend $300-$500 but can be flexible if needed to go over. Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions on custom or pre-built keyboards. Also, what are the best tactile switches nowadays. Thanks!

Also, should add that I'm not looking for any sort of backlit or fancy looking keyboard. Just a really nice keyboard with nice switches and high-quality keycaps to use for a lot of typing at work.

"Best" tactile is subjective. How much tactility do you want? Do you want a long pole switch? What spring weight?

P.S. I could tell that you haven't been in the hobby for a while when you started talking about tactiles and used MX Browns and Ergo Clears as an example  ;D
someone needs to make an aussie keyboard community called QMƎɹ┴⅄. get it? haha :D

Offline HungerMechanic

  • Posts: 1378
Re: Looking for a Custom/Pre-Built Keyboard
« Reply #2 on: Thu, 13 October 2022, 20:13:01 »
Yeah, Browns and Ergo Clears are the "Ur" tactiles in MX.

I've made many posts on the subject of light and other tactiles, which you can search. Some popular ones are: MED-HEAVY: T1, U4T Boba, Holy Pandas/Bobas, MED: Durock Medium Tactile, SP Star Purple and Lilac, AKKO CS Ocean Blue and Purple, Huano Banana, KTT Matcha, LIGHT: Pewter / Durock Light Tactile / Cotton Candy, SP Star Meteor Orange, Zealio V1 Redux, KTT Mallo.

I can give details on these and more, if necessary.

For some outside the typical MX configuration: TTC Bluish White, Kailh Speed Copper, Kailh BOX Brown, Kangaroo.

Let me know what you are looking for, and maybe I can narrow it down.

--------------------

As for boards, almost no 104-key available as full-size. Largest are typically TKL. 65% much more common. 75% boards with dials are also popular.

If you want full-sized 104-108 key board, be prepared to desolder and resolder. Best factory board for that is Leopold. But challenging, because of strong PCB. There are services in US and Canada capable of doing this.

Best entry-level 65% is KBD67 Lite, best entry-level 68% is Aurora. Best mid-range TKL is KBD8X MKII, but it's been replaced by cheaper model.

Many plate-options available now, depending on what you want. New mounting styles: gasket being the most popular. For tactile builds, the best choice is probably a top-mount. Tray not so much. Gasket only if you want "soft" typing.

I started where you are. You may find this post informative:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=103412.0

If you like Ergo Clears, many spring weights and lube choices available now.

Filco is also a good choice for Ergo Clears. Something like a 65 G TX 14mm spring may be ideal, but you can get away with 62 G 14mm. Use 67 G if you aren't planning to lube. I have 2 Ergo Clear keyboards right now, and parts for 2 more.

Check this guy's reviews:

https://www.theremingoat.com/

He is pretty harsh on some of my favourite tactiles, but is generally accurate. If he is right, this is a good new tactile:

https://www.theremingoat.com/blog/invokeys-blueberry-chiffon-switch-review

Here is a pretty good subjective graph:

https://www.keebtalk.com/t/what-do-we-know-about-the-gazzew-boba-u4-switches/10223/43?u=hungermechanic






Offline HungerMechanic

  • Posts: 1378
Re: Looking for a Custom/Pre-Built Keyboard
« Reply #3 on: Thu, 13 October 2022, 20:19:02 »
BTW: What you probably want is:

Leopold FC900R PD [$120] desoldered and resoldered [~$100] with 104 U4T Boba switches [~$65], which can be lubed [~$65]. That's $350.

Leopold already comes with the best-possible keycaps, but if you want pretty ABS keycaps, add another $90 USD for Domikey, or ~80 for a decent PBT dye-sub set. Bringing it to $440 in total.

Offline HungerMechanic

  • Posts: 1378
Re: Looking for a Custom/Pre-Built Keyboard
« Reply #4 on: Thu, 13 October 2022, 21:21:10 »
I thought I would provide you with some additional information, since I am very familiar with the topic.



SWITCHES

Custom switches for MX keyboards came in several stages.

Stage 0. The Beginning.

These were the original Cherry "tactiles:" MX Clear, and later MX Brown.


Stage 1. Modded Cherry tactiles.

People performed their own mods to Cherry's original tactiles, circa 2011-12. Not many springs were available.

The most popular were Ergo Clears, using stock Cherry MX Black, Blue, or Brown springs.

Later Korean springs allowed dedicated 62, 55, and 63.5 G springs for Ergo Clears.

People also experimented with what became the common 3203, 3204 and 205g0 lubes.

People seemed to be looking for a switch more tactile than MX Brown, but lighter than MX Clear. Ergo Clears achieved this for some people.


Stage 2. Clones

Chinese clone manufacturers produced their own versions of Cherry's MX lineup. But they didn't offer much different. Gateron became popular, as their Browns seemed to be smoother than MX Browns. And there was some mixing of parts between them.

Also, some people prefer Browns from different manufacturers, such as OUTEMU or Gaote.
MX Clears were not copied as much, so did not give rise to new Ergo Clear variants.


Stage 3. Kailh and Zeal

Around 2016-2018 or so, Zeal and then Kailh offered some actually new tactile designs.

I'll start with Kailh. They went beyond their clone lineup and produced some new designs, their BOX housing being the most prominent.

The Kailh BOX housing is interesting, because it is not Cherry. It is not simply a copy of MX. It is a boxy housing that's allegedly dust-resistant. Theoretically, it can be more stable than Cherry. But their manufacturing often isn't much better than Cherry's, so it doesn't matter. Although BOX Reds were smoother than Cherry reds.

BOX clickies are very interesting, and generally more liked than MX Blue. But they also made some tactiles based on their BOX housing:

-BOX Brown: This is a fairly tactile "light tactile" that has resistance more at the top than MX Brown. It feels less like a Brown-style near-linear and more like an old-style pre-MX tactile. It's crunchier, and the drop is more noticeable. They feel more authoritative, more type-writer like.

-BOX Orange: This is just a BOX Brown with a heavier spring. It's worse IMHO, because the heavier spring means less tactility and more pointless weight.

-BOX Royal: a later, perhaps absurdly tactile switch.

-There was also a sort-of clone of Kailh BOX tactiles that were made to be like Ergo Clears. The Hako switches. I think it was Hako Violet. They haven't been talked about in a while. An interesting alternative to Kailh BOX Brown.

BTW, the early Kailh BOX switches broke keycaps, especially GMK. Never use pre-retool BOX switches. Never put GMK on any BOX switches. I don't trust them for that, no matter what people say.

Also, people say that all Kailh tactiles turn clicky eventually, once the lube in a certain area runs out. I don't think it's such a big problem, since BOX tactiles are noisy anyway. But some people really hate it.

Kailh also made more conventional MX-style switches that were still different, notably:

-Kailh Speed Copper: This is like an MX Brown, but the tactile barrier is right at the top, then it just collapses. So it's kinda like a click-less clicky. Very crisp.

-Kailh Pro Purple: This is a Brown or light Ergo-Clear where the tactile barrier is at the top instead of the middle. You can have fun with these, put in 3204 and 63.5 G Spirit springs.

Okay, so that's Kailh.

Around the same time, people here were getting Gateron to produce a custom line. The purpose was to create a factory Ergo Clear, that was also better than Ergo Clears.

So that became Zeal, and the switch is known as Zealio V1. It's back as the Zealio V1 Redux.

They aren't quite as tactile as the old MX Clears, I think. But they are definitely smoother than modern Clears. You can get them in multiple weights.

Because Zealios were successful, it led to the development of further custom switches by Zeal and others.


Stage 4 - The Heavy Tactiles

As custom switches progressed, people found that they wanted smoother linears, more clicky clickies, and more tactile tactiles.

The success of Zealio V1 led to Zealio V2, which is a very different switch.

Zealio V2 has a much larger tactile bump that is higher up. The tactile bump is so large than you can hit it and 'hang,' before actually actuating the switch.

At the same time, the so-called "Holy Panda" had become very popular.

It was a mixture of the YOK Panda housing, a mediocre linear, and the stem of a Halo True.

The Halo True is one of those Kailh/Hako style switches, I think it may have been commissioned by Drop or something. It's a tactile somewhat in the vein of MX Clear: it has a medium-sized bump, and a heavy spring that becomes progressively heavier.

Some people like Halo True on its own. But most people liked what is known as this 'frankenswitch,' where two or more switches are combined to form a new one, in this case the Holy Panda.

The Holy Panda has a large, satisfying bump that is fairly round instead of sharp. It can feel like a giant MX Brown, if built that way.

Anyway, these switches were going for $5.00 each, at one point. But several manufacturers and distributors stepped in to provide parts. And there are many clones of it today. The Holy Panda became the "Ergo Clear" sensation of 2018 or so.


Stage 5 - Plethora of switches

During 2018-2019 to the beginning of the pandemic, you basically had the Kailh lineup of tactiles to choose from, along with heavy tactiles like Zealio V2 and Holy Panda.

But a lot of manufacturers stepped in at that point. Durock emerged to produce the T1, which is a 'heavy' or 'medium-heavy' tactile styled after Zeal V2 and Holy Panda. It's a bit more restrained and rounded. Factory sound is very middling, and needs lube.

Durock later came up with the "Durock Medium Tactile," which is closer to the Zealio V1 and Ergo Clear. There were many recolours, from MODE Signal to Penguin and Taro Ball. I think RARA was the first of these, but I'm not sure.

AKKO CS emerged as a low-cost manufacturer. The CS Ocean Blue and Purple switches are widely-praised for being affordable medium tactiles that kind of feel like lesser Holy Pandas.

Meanwhile, OUTEMU had refined its custom offerings. It had started around the Kailh / Zeal V1 era to produce the OUTEMU Sky, an attempt at a factory Ergo Clear. The stem was actually pretty good, although it changed over time. The housings were really bad, though.

Later, they came up with the U4 Boba, a wildly-popular silent heavy-tactile. It is the closest MX switch to EC switches like Topre, or especially Niz.

From the Boba, they developed the U4T. The T in the U4T stands for "Thock." It is a loud version of the U4 Boba, using a long-stem. Long-stemmed switched had become popular since the Holy Panda.

The U4T is beloved because it uses the excellent Boba housing, which is smoother, better-sounding, more tactile, and more stable than Cherry. The U4T is about as tactile as a Holy Panda, or especially a T1.

So if you are looking for a particularly thocky and good heavy-tactile, try U4T. It isn't that heavy. You can also build them at 55 G with lube, and they are pretty tame.




RECOMMENDATIONS

You need a 104-key board. Problem is: people who funded custom keyboards in the past 5 years did not want full-size keyboards. They barely even want TKLs. Most custom kits are in the 60-75% range. And the TKLs are expensive.

So what you probably will end up having to do is get a factory 104/108-key board, have the switches taken out by desoldering, and then resolder in the switches you want.

As I said earlier, the best board for that purpose is the Leopold FC900R PD.

I can tell you right now, no factory MX board is adequate. They all have problems. Some of which you can fix with new switches and lubing the stabilizers.

But they all use the inferior tray-mount setup, which produces uneven sound, mediocre feel, and perhaps more ping. But what can you do? The only custom parts I know of are several GBs for custom Filco TKL PCBs and plates. I guess that's the best you can do.

So you are stuck with tray-mount. But at least you can get some decent switches into there. Some builds I know of: Zilent V2, Ergo Clear, Holy Panda. These have been done in factory full-size.

If I were you, I would get ahold of some samples of the following switches:

U4T Boba [probably 62 G], Holy Panda, Durock T1 [or JWick T1], SP Star Purple, Lilac tactile, maybe SP Star Dark "Magic Girl," and especially lubed Kiwi if you can get it.

Try them out in hand or in hot-swap. You only need 10 or less of each.

How to get: You can order from the individual stores, which is expensive. Or you can pandle on r/mechmarket, as people sell their used [often lubed] switches, or straight up beg there as people have excess switches.

Also, there are people who will assemble like 20 different individual samples in a bag for you, which is the best option.

Anyway, get ahold of samples or go to a meetup. Don't build anything without having tried samples.

Trust me.

Then you pay a service to do the whole desoldering / resoldering thing. Unless you have experience.

That's why I say, Leopold FC900R PD with U4T might save you a lot of time and trouble. At least with a pre-built, you don't need to buy more parts, and can just lube the existing stabilizers. Then, you're set.

A dark horse option is the Varmilo custom store. It's the closest thing to what you asked for: somewhere you can just buy a factory 'custom' keyboard.

I had a good experience with them back in 2018, but don't know what their shipping and reliability is like after the pandemic.

You can get a full-size Varmilo 108-key board with their excellent keycaps [even a custom pattern you select!] + Zealio V2 67 G switches from the store. Which is kinda incredible. Ask them to clip + lube the stabilizers while they are at it. It is the very best 'factory' experience for sure, if it goes well.

But in truth, I wouldn't buy or use any factory keyboard without lubing the switches. So that kinda negates Varmilo and their unlubed switches. Sure, Zeal switches are smooth from factory, but lube helps their sound, and their springs need lube or replacement for sure. So you're not getting the optimum experience from Varmilo, since their switches are unlubed.

You can actually get away with unlubed U4T, sort of like with Zeal, but still the springs at the very least should be lubed.

Another option is just to buy a Topre PFU edition or Realforce V3, in your preferred weight.

Offline HungerMechanic

  • Posts: 1378
Re: Looking for a Custom/Pre-Built Keyboard
« Reply #5 on: Thu, 13 October 2022, 21:59:58 »
Bit of a spelling error - I referred to U4T and HP as "long-stem" switches, when I meant "long-pole" as discussed above.

"Long-pole" is a relatively recent trend, where the pole below the stem is longer than Cherry standard. The pole actually thwacks against the housing, producing a more resonant sound. Some people interpret this as "thock."

Whether you like long-pole or not is up to you, which is why I recommend trying the aforementioned switches.

I also forgot to mention Gateron CAP Brown, which might be an option for you. They are light-medium tactiles, very comparable to Ergo Clears. They are factory-lubed, so you don't actually need to perform any mods. [The CAP Milky Brown V2 seem to have the better sound.]

So, you could hypothetically just ask an assembly service to put CAP Browns in a full-size keyboard, and bang, you are done.





CAP Browns sometimes come in cheap 18 or 35-packs, which means it could be easy to acquire samples, while starting to stockpile them for a build. E.g.

https://divinikey.com/products/gateron-cap-v2-switches?variant=39843117531201

BTW, Zealio V1 are on sale. Lowest price yet.

https://zealpc.net/products/zealio_v1_redux?variant=39352365449280

Offline HungerMechanic

  • Posts: 1378
Re: Looking for a Custom/Pre-Built Keyboard
« Reply #6 on: Thu, 13 October 2022, 22:55:40 »
BTW, here are some typing videos of 'semi-customs' like you are talking about building:

[added space after 'https' to prevent them from showing up as previews]


Ergo Clear


Quote

https ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fz5zcRogFfg  https ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPTnTnbFUSI&t=1  https ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpnpyWnAl4A  https ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Myv3TsCc_I8 
https ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35RMX44Nl3Q  https ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPKmatmo0bE  https ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=es5PeBGhKzs  https ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kt0tXwmH60  https ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JX4xI5neNvc&t=1s
https ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eIOfaBFty-o  https ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcBwnIbIWuk  https ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=72r2bchri1k  https ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5ysqn6meKg  https ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BaWu_NkWY5A


Holy Panda

Quote


https: //www.youtube.com/watch?v=o9hWCKMnZR0  https: //www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bV1YfAJ-GQ  https: //www.youtube.com/watch?v=IziW3FDE61I


U4T


Quote

https: //www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4_m2OySaIY  https: //www.youtube.com/watch?v=IS9wwtf82Pk



Zealio V2


Quote


https: //www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-GmEUd5Z9Q  https: //www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJiTKv6au9g  https: //www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsO6kFc7GOs  https: //www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8mFJS3JWuM


BTW, if you like Ergo Clears, definitely try Naevies. Naevy 1.5 was awesome, don't know what the new 2.0 are like.

https://divinikey.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/aeboards-naevy-tactile-switches?utm_source=thocstock&utm_medium=product_page&rfsn=6192130.f46e85

Offline Coreda

  • Posts: 776
Re: Looking for a Custom/Pre-Built Keyboard
« Reply #7 on: Fri, 14 October 2022, 00:53:39 »
...

Useful overview of events, squirreled away in this topic. Hopefully gets picked up on in search crawls.

Offline mohawk1367

  • Posts: 244
  • Location: Rochester, New York
  • Typing on: HHKB Pro Hybrid Type-S
Re: Looking for a Custom/Pre-Built Keyboard
« Reply #8 on: Fri, 14 October 2022, 06:39:43 »
BTW: What you probably want is:

Leopold FC900R PD [$120] desoldered and resoldered [~$100] with 104 U4T Boba switches [~$65], which can be lubed [~$65]. That's $350.

Leopold already comes with the best-possible keycaps, but if you want pretty ABS keycaps, add another $90 USD for Domikey, or ~80 for a decent PBT dye-sub set. Bringing it to $440 in total.

Where and why are you spending $65 to lube switches? Also $350 sounds like a lot for a plastic case, why not just get a custom at that point?
someone needs to make an aussie keyboard community called QMƎɹ┴⅄. get it? haha :D

Offline HungerMechanic

  • Posts: 1378
Re: Looking for a Custom/Pre-Built Keyboard
« Reply #9 on: Fri, 14 October 2022, 10:16:22 »

Where and why are you spending $65 to lube switches? Also $350 sounds like a lot for a plastic case, why not just get a custom at that point?

Sad truth is, most MX tactiles need to be user-lubed for best results. [Factory already lubes, it's been present since Day 1, but doesn't do a good enough job.]

The sawtooth nature of MX 'tactility' creates its own scratchy, friction-y, and brushing sounds. Tactiles leaves are inherently 'noisy.' And unless you're using Cherry housings, many switches sound high-pitched w/o lube.

I wish this were like SKCM ALPS, and a brand-new switch performs well without lube. But this is MX we're talking about. If you're using almost anything other than a stock Cherry tactile, it helps to lube. [I'm talking tactiles here, not linear or clicky.]

The recognition of this issue is so prevalent that there exist many lubing services on the internet. $65 + shipping for 100 is not a bad price, lubing goes down to about .60 cents per switch in bulk orders.

There are tactiles you can "get away with" not lubing, I have made a list of them somewhere. U4T is chief among them, there's Naevy 1.5, SP Star Purple and Magic Girl, Lilac Tactile, Kiwi if you don't want better sound, T1 if you don't care about sound, can get away with not lubing Zilent V2. But even a switch like Holy Panda doesn't shine until you lube it.

This goes for most non-Cherry tactiles, and even Cherry switches like Ergo Clears, which benefit strongly from lube. [@lower spring weights.] I'm typing on stock MX Browns right now, no lube. But the truth is that there's a lot of scratch and ping with non-lubed MX tactiles, including the clone manufacturers.



As for the $350 and 'plastic case.' The OP wants a full-size. There are almost no full-size custom cases. Which means he would have to rebuild a plastic-cased factory keyboard like Leopold or Filco.

I sympathize. I would want some fancy case too for $350, I guess.

But plastic cases are the best choice. They are durable, hold their colour, don't discolour or rust, and often have better sound than metal of any type. I think from a functionality standpoint, plastic/polycarb are way better than any metal alternatives. OP is lucky he can retrofit a full-size with a plastic case.

Offline hvontres

  • Posts: 185
  • Location: Oceanside, CA
  • Buckling Spring Enthusiast - Full Size Evangelist
Re: Looking for a Custom/Pre-Built Keyboard
« Reply #10 on: Sat, 15 October 2022, 04:26:43 »
I know this is not a pre-built, but as an alternative to a traditional Full size, Pylon's Boston is really nice (I have two, so I might be biased). RNDKBD has 3d-printed kits in stock (https://rndkbd.com/collections/keyboard-kits-cases/products/boston-keyboard-kit. The layout saves about 1.5" in width over a traditional full size and you get extra macro keys to play with. I believe you can get the board with Mil-max sockets already installed. I did that for my second build and I highly reccomend it. There is an option for single color back lighting, but 120+ LEDs can actually overload the USB port, especially with yellow, since they draw a bit more current than the green.
For my work board, I used HAKO True switches, but they are a bit on the heavy side and the tactile bump is a bit vague. If noise was not an issue, I would reccomend box pale blues. They have a clickbar that is a little heavier than the box whites but not nearly as crazy as the box Jade/ box navy. I tried some of the silent jades (they have a damper on the click bar to reduce the noise) and they had an interesting profile. They are definitely quiet, but they loose the crisp break you get with the clicky box springs.

For key caps, I would HIGHLY recommend PBT MT3 keys. They have nice sculpted tops that feel like they hug your fingers as you type. I also have a set of ABS ones on my work board, but they don't feel nearly as nice. I think they reduced the dish and the top surface feels more slick than it does on the PBT's.
Henry von Tresckow

               
1986 Model M 1390131, 1987 Model M 1391401 , 1993 Model M2 Modded Reddragon k556(Test Mule) Boston Prototype x2 (Daily Drivers :) )

Offline HungerMechanic

  • Posts: 1378
Re: Looking for a Custom/Pre-Built Keyboard
« Reply #11 on: Sat, 15 October 2022, 11:20:17 »

Yes, the Boston is something I was going to recommend as one of the closest to a 100%. It has builders right here on this forum, and might be a good choice for OP.

MT3 is also a great choice for enthusiasts of the classic, and they do thock better than other keycaps. Was going to recommend them in conjunction with the U4T [which works well], and they would probably go well with most of those other heavy tactiles. Also Ergo Clears.

PBT molds are different than the ABS ones, as hvontres indicated. The PBT molds are better sculpted, and are probably better sounding. I use the ABS ones with a Naevy 1.5 board, though.

Offline granola bar enthusiast

  • Posts: 316
  • Location: USA
Re: Looking for a Custom/Pre-Built Keyboard
« Reply #12 on: Sat, 15 October 2022, 12:13:35 »
leopold is solid

Offline mohawk1367

  • Posts: 244
  • Location: Rochester, New York
  • Typing on: HHKB Pro Hybrid Type-S
Re: Looking for a Custom/Pre-Built Keyboard
« Reply #13 on: Mon, 17 October 2022, 07:30:06 »

Where and why are you spending $65 to lube switches? Also $350 sounds like a lot for a plastic case, why not just get a custom at that point?

Sad truth is, most MX tactiles need to be user-lubed for best results. [Factory already lubes, it's been present since Day 1, but doesn't do a good enough job.]

The sawtooth nature of MX 'tactility' creates its own scratchy, friction-y, and brushing sounds. Tactiles leaves are inherently 'noisy.' And unless you're using Cherry housings, many switches sound high-pitched w/o lube.

I wish this were like SKCM ALPS, and a brand-new switch performs well without lube. But this is MX we're talking about. If you're using almost anything other than a stock Cherry tactile, it helps to lube. [I'm talking tactiles here, not linear or clicky.]

The recognition of this issue is so prevalent that there exist many lubing services on the internet. $65 + shipping for 100 is not a bad price, lubing goes down to about .60 cents per switch in bulk orders.

There are tactiles you can "get away with" not lubing, I have made a list of them somewhere. U4T is chief among them, there's Naevy 1.5, SP Star Purple and Magic Girl, Lilac Tactile, Kiwi if you don't want better sound, T1 if you don't care about sound, can get away with not lubing Zilent V2. But even a switch like Holy Panda doesn't shine until you lube it.

This goes for most non-Cherry tactiles, and even Cherry switches like Ergo Clears, which benefit strongly from lube. [@lower spring weights.] I'm typing on stock MX Browns right now, no lube. But the truth is that there's a lot of scratch and ping with non-lubed MX tactiles, including the clone manufacturers.



As for the $350 and 'plastic case.' The OP wants a full-size. There are almost no full-size custom cases. Which means he would have to rebuild a plastic-cased factory keyboard like Leopold or Filco.

I sympathize. I would want some fancy case too for $350, I guess.

But plastic cases are the best choice. They are durable, hold their colour, don't discolour or rust, and often have better sound than metal of any type. I think from a functionality standpoint, plastic/polycarb are way better than any metal alternatives. OP is lucky he can retrofit a full-size with a plastic case.

Ah yeah I guess if you're getting them lubed for you. I thought you were spending $65 to lube them yourself lol.
someone needs to make an aussie keyboard community called QMƎɹ┴⅄. get it? haha :D