Author Topic: Logitech Mouse "double click problem" - Replacement Switches (Pictures!)  (Read 14939 times)

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Offline danrulz98

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Hopefully this can be useful to Geekhack folks, as well as random googlers.

Most Logitech mice use Omron D2FC series switches, which after a pretty short time develop what's been affectionately referred to as the "double click issue". Most of the fixes I've seen involve taking the switch apart and bending the leaf spring back into shape.

But, that's just going to cause it to break again, and repeat the process.

I can't be bothered with all that noise. I have the tools and the knowledge to do something better. I'm going to just replace the switches! And I'm gonna show you how!

This is more or less the same for all Logitech mice, the exact tear-down procedure is different though. I'm using a Logitech M705 Marathon Mouse.

The switches I ordered are a tad.. overkill. The operating force of the original Omron switches is 0.7N (1/2 a pound), so if you ever felt your mouse was just too light, these might be the switches for you. You can look around the Mouser website and see if you can find another switch with similar operating force, they just need to be the same size really.
The switches I settled with were Cherry DG13series. The exact one requires an operating force of 1.4N (1 pound) and is rated for a minimum of 1 million operations mechanically.

While you're at it, pick up some Spudgers and Solder Wick (if you don't have/want a desoldering iron).

Mouser order in hand, time to open your mouse. Each mouse is a little different. But they seem to all involve removing the feet, and poking through the lable in the battery compartment.


Be careful of little wiring harnesses if you have forward/back buttons (1)! And remove any wiring harnesses for laser assemblies (2).


It took me a while to figure this out, but you need to slide out this piece in order to remove the scroll wheel mechanism. Not sure how many mice this is used on.. Also be careful of two very tiny springs that hold up the front end.


Now, remove the screws that hold down the circuit board and disconnect the battery wires. Set the rest of the mouse somewhere safe.
Logitech neglected to put a connector on the hidden special button! Doh! Wonder what this little switch does (1)? Anyway, warm up your soldering iron and start removing one of the two switches. Pay close attention to the orientation of the switch! The new one must go in the same way!


Proper tools make for light work! I have a Hakko 472 desoldering iron that did this in a few seconds. If you can pick one of these up cheaply, it makes taking stuff apart a lot easier and more fun!


Bye bye Omron switch


Solder in the new Cherry switch! I have a very old Ungar 9100 soldering iron that, again makes light work of this. So glad I picked that up on Ebay!


Repeat these steps for both switches. MAKE SURE YOU PUT THEM IN THE RIGHT WAY!

New Cherry switches installed!



Now, just look at the dissasembally instructions in reverse order and put your mouse back together!

Hope this helps someone!

Offline KHAANNN

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After using Nano VX's and Anywhere MX's for long, I recently switches to the G602, I was thinking of going back to the Anywhere MX's, but the switches always start double clicking, this post certainly nudges me into the VX/MX direction, thanks a lot for sharing your experience, I should start looking for some of these cherry switches

On the other hand, the G602 has much better acceleration dynamics, yet I miss the low profile of the Anyhere MX

Previously I deemed replacing mouse switches as madness, yet after playing around with Cherry MX's a lot, replacing mouse switches seem pretty sane and logical
Endgame | 1.25 Cmd for GMK Sets Please | Or Just 1.25 Blanks Like The Good Old Days

Offline Johan

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  • Location: Stockholm, Sweden.
I should get a Desoldering iron, looks like it makes it 10x easier. Hopefully I can find a non POS one for sub 200$.
I tried to do it once with a manual pump, It didn't go great... My shaky hands aren't good at this tiny stuff.
But thank you for the guide.
« Last Edit: Tue, 03 March 2015, 11:24:48 by Johan »
Uh, stuff.

Offline KHAANNN

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I also have a heat + pump approach, works well enough to let switches detach, haven't tried the method in mass tho

Just got 2 more pumps instead of a desoldering iron, mine was pretty low quality, I'm hoping these new ones will be better
Endgame | 1.25 Cmd for GMK Sets Please | Or Just 1.25 Blanks Like The Good Old Days

Offline danrulz98

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I should get a Desoldering iron, looks like it makes it 10x easier. Hopefully I can find a non POS one for sub 200$.
I tried to do it once with a manual pump, It didn't go great... My shaky hands aren't good at this tiny stuff.
But thank you for the guide.

You have no idea how much easier this Hakko unit makes things. I got mine from a labratory supply place being sold as "parts", I didn't pay very much for it. Just needed to get a new tip on Amazon (the new tip costed almost as much as I paid for the whole unit).

If you can find one for a good price, I hear a Hakko 808 is a fantastic unit.

Offline Psybin

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Awesome thread  :thumb:
Code 104 (MX Clear w/IMTSO PBT) | Ducky Shine III YOTS (MX Blue) | Code TKL (MX Green w/ IMTSO PBT) | GON Kittypad

Stand up! -->https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57987.msg1688881#msg1688881

Get a Greyhound! --> https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45894.msg1021030#msg1021030

My Artisan WTT/WTS thread --> https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=59814.0

Offline jacobolus

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Wow, you want stiffer mouse switches?

I donít think Iíve ever tried a mouse switch that I didnít think was too heavy. :-)

Offline Johan

  • Posts: 241
  • Location: Stockholm, Sweden.
I should get a Desoldering iron, looks like it makes it 10x easier. Hopefully I can find a non POS one for sub 200$.
I tried to do it once with a manual pump, It didn't go great... My shaky hands aren't good at this tiny stuff.
But thank you for the guide.

You have no idea how much easier this Hakko unit makes things. I got mine from a labratory supply place being sold as "parts", I didn't pay very much for it. Just needed to get a new tip on Amazon (the new tip costed almost as much as I paid for the whole unit).

If you can find one for a good price, I hear a Hakko 808 is a fantastic unit.

I looked at the FR-300 but its a bit too pricey. I'm trying to see if I can find a decent used unit locally(hakko or weller.) I haven't been able to find a 808 on ebay with a type E/F plug, I'm not sure that it would be a good idea to use a soldering station with an adapter.
I saw a review on the ZD985, looks cheap but functional. Might use that as my backup plan.
« Last Edit: Wed, 11 March 2015, 04:48:18 by Johan »
Uh, stuff.

Offline danrulz98

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I know they make 240v models. Just get one with an EU plug or something else 240v and put your own plug on it :)
The rating is only for 50 watts (maybe 70 with the pump running) so an adapter wouldn't be a huge hazard either.

Offline CPTBadAss

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Nice job OP. Thanks for sharing :) How do you like those Cherry switches vs the Omrons?
Please check out TactileZine.com!

Offline danrulz98

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Re: Logitech Mouse "double click problem" - Replacement Switches (Pictures!)
« Reply #10 on: Wed, 11 March 2015, 17:15:45 »
Nice job OP. Thanks for sharing :) How do you like those Cherry switches vs the Omrons?

I like it a lot! They are noticeably firmer, which I actually like because I lay my hand on the mouse and just that weight of my fingers would make it click sometimes, so that doesn't happen anymore. I think they might be a bit louder too, which, who here cares about that?

There's other Cherry switches you can use, I chose the series I did because, well, they were in stock.
If you look at the specs of the switches you can see they're crazily overbuilt for the purpose (125v @ 3A),so you might even save a bit of money by finding more appropriate switches.

Offline LarsMarkelson

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Re: Logitech Mouse "double click problem" - Replacement Switches (Pictures!)
« Reply #11 on: Tue, 28 April 2015, 18:44:58 »
Wow, very cool OP. I've wondered how to do this for awhile and it really doesn't seem hard at all. Just need to get myself a nice soldering iron and maybe desoldering iron.

Mouse double-click problem is a big problem for MOBA players, with the massive amounts of clicking that can happen. My Deathadder developed the problem not even a couple months into using it.

Offline JGonzalo

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Sorry for writing here, I just want to know what's this piece name 'cause I need to replace it to my mouse


Offline tp4tissue

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Sorry for writing here, I just want to know what's this piece name 'cause I need to replace it to my mouse

Show Image


crystal oscillator.