Author Topic: Apple Extended Keyboard II disassembly (Read 12649 times)

False_Dmitry_II · « **on:** Thu, 14 July 2011, 15:49:23 »

Has anybody actually removed the board from the bottom casing? I don't really see how to do so.

theferenc · « **Reply #1 on:** Thu, 14 July 2011, 15:56:29 »

I tried. Several times. Never could. I think it's typical (of the time) Apple, in that it's put together in such a way that you can get it apart, but you won't be able to put it back together again. The Performas were awful about this. You basically couldn't open them, even with the right tools, without breaking some of the tabs holding it together.

False_Dmitry_II · « **Reply #2 on:** Thu, 14 July 2011, 17:32:01 »

Did you actually break one trying to do so to see how its held together? I think there is a way to do it because I've seen mention in some threads of people having done it, but not how it was done.

N8N · « **Reply #3 on:** Thu, 14 July 2011, 18:03:22 »

I got it out, on mine there were two clips toward the top of the board, release those, tilt plate & PCB up, then push both toward rear of case. It seems like it won't work but it does. The holes that the nubs on the plate go through are soft, flexible plastic so they kind of grip the plate and you think you'll break something, but you won't. The ADB connectors just slot into the bottom of the case and are retained by the top of the case, so if you've already got the case apart then they are free and will lift right out.

theferenc · « **Reply #4 on:** Thu, 14 July 2011, 18:10:26 »

Well, there you go. I hadn't tried very hard, as I didn't want to break anything, and it felt like I was going to.

False_Dmitry_II · « **Reply #5 on:** Thu, 14 July 2011, 19:06:46 »

Yeah, I saw those clips, and the things at the front. I tried a little bit to lift it out before, but not much because I thought it'd break. I have a tendency to break things the first time round. It's out now.

N8N, why'd you do it?

N8N · « **Reply #6 on:** Thu, 14 July 2011, 19:29:05 »

wanted to run the bottom of the case through the dishwasher 'cause that's what I do. Certain people who sold it to me gave me a good enough deal it wouldn't have been the end of the world if I didn't get it back together, and I figured it'd be more marketable if it were nice and shiny clean.

Also, I just like taking stuff apart. When I was a kid my mom would save busted alarm clocks and give one to me whenever she needed to really keep me out of her hair for an hour or two

mr_a500 · « **Reply #7 on:** Thu, 14 July 2011, 20:38:08 »

I disassembled a couple of them a few months ago without too much difficulty. I don't remember what you have to do, but I do remember that it was more of a pain in the ass than the original AEK was.

False_Dmitry_II · « **Reply #8 on:** Thu, 14 July 2011, 23:03:07 »

Did you take that metal thing that pulls the adjustable riser off? Because I pulled on it just to check how it was on there and it responded by flying across the room. Now I don't see how to put it back on in the same way that it was on there already.

Pylon · « **Reply #9 on:** Sat, 16 July 2011, 20:14:21 »

I just took one apart and it was easier than I expected from this thread.

The top case is held mostly by clip on tabs. That's not that hard.

For the bottom case, I simply unclipped the top tabs and pulled the switch/plate assembly towards the back/top of the case, and bam, it was off.

False_Dmitry_II · « **Reply #10 on:** Sun, 17 July 2011, 00:35:25 »

Yeah, and when I took the top case off, I broke the top tabs on the far left and far right. It came right off after that, super easy.

theferenc · « **Reply #11 on:** Sun, 17 July 2011, 02:12:45 »

That's exactly why I stopped trying on mine. I don't like breaking things like that. Except the rivets on a Model M, anyway. Popping those off is just fun...sometimes you can send them flying several meters.

False_Dmitry_II · « **Reply #12 on:** Sun, 17 July 2011, 11:16:16 »

Yeah, that's why I stopped at that point and asked instead of going ahead and pulling. I'm still gonna have to open my other one to look at how that metal spring is attached, so hopefully I don't do too much damage there.

mr_a500 · « **Reply #13 on:** Sun, 17 July 2011, 13:31:30 »

Quote from: False_Dmitry_II;380738

Did you take that metal thing that pulls the adjustable riser off? Because I pulled on it just to check how it was on there and it responded by flying across the room. Now I don't see how to put it back on in the same way that it was on there already.

Last night, I decided to open my AEK II again to explain how to do it... but then after futile prying for a few seconds, just said, "Screw it!" and threw it back in my closet.

Sorry, I just can't find the motivation to open pain-in-the-ass keyboards at the moment. :wacko:

False_Dmitry_II · « **Reply #14 on:** Tue, 19 July 2011, 21:50:35 »

21461[/ATTACH]

21462[/ATTACH]

I think it turned out pretty good. Apparently I grabbed gloss black instead of flat black (the flat black just looked gray to me). Any suggestions for the spacebar? I tried to do it with the keys, but it just refused to go like the rest did. I then left it in for hours and it just warped slightly, but did take some of the color. The one that's in the picture is from a different board, though the warped one still fits.

Pylon · « **Reply #15 on:** Wed, 20 July 2011, 06:55:32 »

Spacebar is ABS. That's a problem.

mr_a500 · « **Reply #16 on:** Wed, 20 July 2011, 08:38:02 »

Quote from: False_Dmitry_II;383748

(Attachment Link) 21461[/ATTACH]
(Attachment Link) 21462[/ATTACH]

I think it turned out pretty good. Apparently I grabbed gloss black instead of flat black (the flat black just looked gray to me). Any suggestions for the spacebar? I tried to do it with the keys, but it just refused to go like the rest did. I then left it in for hours and it just warped slightly, but did take some of the color. The one that's in the picture is from a different board, though the warped one still fits.

I can see what you're trying to do there... but personally, I'd never pick yellow. From all the unintentionally yellowed plastics, I've developed a hatred of yellow plastic.

I'm thinking of doing an all black AEK - with doubleshot black keys from a dead TRS-80 Model 100. (...just need to find a free dead Model 100)

False_Dmitry_II · « **Reply #17 on:** Wed, 20 July 2011, 11:54:55 »

What's funny is that the second picture is without the flash.

... It's not yellow, it's orange. Very, very orange.

So, clearly I can't rit dye the spacebar. I don't think it'd be possible to get a spraypaint that would match the orange. So what other options are there? (although I'm thinking I should probably start a thread in modifications)

EDIT: This and the previous post I have edited to add the pictures that were there before and potentially add the others I have. This was the first keyboard I did the entire paint and dye to. Currently the orange keys and the spacebar that go with it are awaiting a new case/keyboard. Probably to have some type of Matias.

The Solutor · « **Reply #18 on:** Wed, 20 July 2011, 12:07:38 »

Quote from: False_Dmitry_II;384079

So what other options are there?

Paint it black, like the case.

False_Dmitry_II · « **Reply #19 on:** Wed, 20 July 2011, 13:42:00 »

I considered that, but gloss black or flat black?

And what about the wear? With it being painted I don't know if that's an issue.

The Solutor · « **Reply #20 on:** Wed, 20 July 2011, 13:54:25 »

I don't like gloss so my suggestion will be biased...

mdsr · « **Reply #21 on:** Wed, 20 July 2011, 14:24:44 »

Wow that's pretty. Did you dye the keycaps? Does it not remove the legends?

False_Dmitry_II · « **Reply #22 on:** Wed, 20 July 2011, 14:58:12 »

I did indeed dye the keycaps. I don't see why it would remove the legends.

mdsr · « **Reply #23 on:** Wed, 20 July 2011, 15:12:20 »

RIT Dye? I guess the wiki post were otaku keycaps, I dunno why I assumed that it would remove legends.

Edit: haha I should have read that wiki post in more depth, sorry

The Solutor · « **Reply #24 on:** Wed, 20 July 2011, 15:18:03 »

Only the urban legends are harder to remove... :party:

False_Dmitry_II · « **Reply #25 on:** Wed, 20 July 2011, 16:16:22 »

Oh.

Yeah, I like the lettering and font on these things, that's why I figured it'd be a good test run before I start doing this en masse. Besides that unexpected snag (teh spacebar), I quite like the result.

I don't think the gloss bugs me as much as shiny would, because it doesn't capture fingerprints or anything. Besides, it is an apple board. Apple stuff is supposed to be like that.

wcass · « **Reply #26 on:** Wed, 20 July 2011, 16:40:38 »

I have been testing out alternative methods for dying plastics - i'll share what i have learned. i should add this to the wiki, but will compose my thoughts here:

dyes work by adding color (or colour depending on if you speak English or American) so you can only go from a lighter color to a darker color. if you dye a black key only the legend will change (provided that is not already black also).

if the object you are dying is not porous, you will need some kind of a driver to get the dye to penetrate. that driver can be heat or a solvent. too much of any driver will ruin your object. only experimentation can find the best combination of heat/solvent for any given plastic and different plastics require different combinations.

For example, PBT has a high melting point, but becomes semi-permeable in water above 140F - no solvent (other than hot water) needed. But ABS has a much lower melting point and will become warped if heated above 140F - and the dye will not take even at higher temps. The secret of dying ABS is to dissolve your dye in warm water (100F) and add some amount of MEK - mix well and pour into a disposable aluminum chaffing dish.

I'm working on refining the right proportion of MEK/H2O/dye for IBM keyboard case. I'll take some pictures to post later.

Disposal of this toxic waste is an issue for a different discussion (hint: do not pour down the drain!!).

wcass · « **Reply #27 on:** Wed, 20 July 2011, 23:23:54 »

scraped back and forth over the numbers with the edge of a knife
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 21668[/ATTACH]

scraped with a knife point - about 1.5 inches
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 21669[/ATTACH]

solvent burn (and cat hair)
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 21670[/ATTACH]

between the Ctrl and Alt keys
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 21671[/ATTACH]

front foot
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 21672[/ATTACH]

rear foot
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 21673[/ATTACH]

left screw hole
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 21674[/ATTACH]

right screw hole
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 21675[/ATTACH]

spolia optima · « **Reply #28 on:** Thu, 21 July 2011, 00:04:16 »

It's easy you just get a flathead and pop the thing out, boom.
when re-attaching the riser, do just the opposite of what happened when it fell off in the first place.
the more you know.:car:

spolia optima · « **Reply #29 on:** Thu, 21 July 2011, 00:31:42 »

Quote from: False_Dmitry_II;383748

I think it turned out pretty good. Apparently I grabbed gloss black instead of flat black (the flat black just looked gray to me). Any suggestions for the spacebar? I tried to do it with the keys, but it just refused to go like the rest did. I then left it in for hours and it just warped slightly, but did take some of the color. The one that's in the picture is from a different board, though the warped one still fits.

color the spacebar and it'll be just perfect. mess around with similar abs plastics till you can get a decent match. that's a seriously nice color scheme. classy.

aggiejy · « **Reply #30 on:** Thu, 21 July 2011, 00:41:28 »

Very nice! I've always wanted one of those. (though, I roll tenkeyless only now days)

News:

Author Topic: Apple Extended Keyboard II disassembly (Read 12649 times)