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Author Topic: Raptor K1 ****ting around :C  (Read 1798 times)

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Offline TOZZIL

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Raptor K1 ****ting around :C
« on: Mon, 17 October 2011, 14:25:03 »
Hey there all you Geeks!

I'm kind of sorry for only asking dumb questions and never having helped anyone yet.. but well, I am still new to all this.

So, problem now is that suddenly the enter and backspace buttons stopped working on my K1. The big enter key in the middle of the board (the numpad one is still working) and the backspace key just dont give a signal to the pc. I just don't know what to do, I even soldered new switches to these keys, but still nothing!
There is nothing unusual visual. Not on the pcb, not on the switch anymore.

Has someone of you ever experienced something similar? And if you did, could you solve it, and if, how?

My only ****ty idea would be to cable the enter key parallel to the enter key at the numpad and do the same with backspace and F12 or something like that and then remap F12 to "arrow left"+"delete" in AHK, to get an effect close to backspace.

Best (,sad) Regards
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Offline mich

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Raptor K1 ****ting around :C
« Reply #1 on: Mon, 17 October 2011, 14:34:40 »
Why would anyone replace switches without first checking PCB traces with a multimeter is beyond me.
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Offline itlnstln

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Raptor K1 ****ting around :C
« Reply #2 on: Mon, 17 October 2011, 14:39:11 »
Quote from: mich;432934
Why would anyone replace switches without first checking PCB traces with a multimeter is beyond me.

Because it's a "broken switch."
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Offline TOZZIL

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Raptor K1 ****ting around :C
« Reply #3 on: Mon, 17 October 2011, 14:41:08 »
Because it was easier in my case. The multimeter is out of reach in the moment...
I soldered nicely, so I can now eliminate this reason.
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Offline TOZZIL

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Raptor K1 ****ting around :C
« Reply #4 on: Mon, 17 October 2011, 14:47:03 »
I soldered the diodes in correctly. And no faulty solder jobs somewhere.

But ripster made me think of broken diodes. I used the ones from the original switches, they looked alright and were already bent perfectly.
But could two broken diodes even bring a failure like that?

Btw: Thanks so far, all!
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Offline Soarer

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Raptor K1 ****ting around :C
« Reply #5 on: Mon, 17 October 2011, 15:13:36 »
Diodes are unlikely to fail, especially two at once!

Since it's a single-sided PCB, there are quite a few wire links on the switch side. I'd be looking for a dry joint on one of those - if you follow the tracks from those keys toward the controller, it will probably be fairly obvious which link it's likely to be. (At a guess, it will be in the space  between backspace and the F-keys somewhere). If in doubt, just resolder them anyway :)
« Last Edit: Mon, 17 October 2011, 15:15:39 by Soarer »
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Offline TOZZIL

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Raptor K1 ****ting around :C
« Reply #6 on: Mon, 17 October 2011, 15:22:16 »
Hmm, alright.
I'll follow your advice when I get to see the KB again on the day after tomorrow. Do you think it's that visual or loose?

I just really like the keyboard with 6kro and that sweet compact layout... Don't wanna have to buy another one :(

Big thx Soarer!
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Offline Soarer

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Raptor K1 ****ting around :C
« Reply #7 on: Mon, 17 October 2011, 15:31:29 »
I meant it should be easy to see which links are on the tracks to those switches. The dry joint itself might be very hard to spot without magnification! Following the tracks should narrow it down to just a few candidates.

Hopefully that's all that's wrong - I think so because it's just two keys rather than more. I think it will live again :)

edit: Just checked on mine... there are two links almost up between F10 and F11 - the link on the left (looking from the front of the board) feeds just backspace and enter... I'd now put money on it being a dry joint or something on that link!
« Last Edit: Mon, 17 October 2011, 15:47:49 by Soarer »
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Offline mich

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Raptor K1 ****ting around :C
« Reply #8 on: Mon, 17 October 2011, 15:46:33 »
If you don't have a multimeter, you can bridge pins of the suspected switch and check if this generates a keypress. If it doesn't, obviously something else is wrong.

Similarly, you can bypass a diode or any other part of the path between the switch and uC. With such tricks, you should be able to locate the problematic element faster than it takes to heat up an iron.
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Offline dorkvader

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Raptor K1 ****ting around :C
« Reply #9 on: Tue, 18 October 2011, 00:22:15 »
Diodes can fail (especially open) if overheated. How proficient are you at soldering?

Also, I second a pin bridging method. Also, a button cell and an LED is a good, relatively safe (con cells have little max current output) continuity tester.
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Offline spolia optima

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Raptor K1 ****ting around :C
« Reply #10 on: Tue, 18 October 2011, 10:02:32 »
Have you thought about requesting an RMA from Cherry?
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keyboards!

Offline TOZZIL

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Raptor K1 ****ting around :C
« Reply #11 on: Tue, 18 October 2011, 15:49:58 »
Hi all!
I managed to find the mistake :D
Even before I checked here whether you guys had some more ideas, I checked all the connections like Soarer mentioned.
And I found out it was a loose solder pad on the pcb and guess where it was. The left one between  F10 and F11. Damn nice work and huge thx to you Soarer!
BTW: I got another multimeter to check the connections.
Nevertheless also thanks to you all you other people helping me.

Phew, now I feel better and can get back to work changing these black beasts to mx reds :]

I wish a good and very very happy night!
« Last Edit: Tue, 18 October 2011, 15:50:58 by TOZZIL »
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Offline Soarer

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Raptor K1 ****ting around :C
« Reply #12 on: Tue, 18 October 2011, 16:11:00 »
Excellent! Glad to hear it's solved :)
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