Author Topic: Cherry MX Switch Lubrication Guide (Read 507152 times)

OddOne · « **Reply #150 on:** Mon, 01 October 2012, 11:38:58 »

Quote from: MagicMeatball on Mon, 01 October 2012, 11:33:11

OddOne - Yes I did, thank you. Sorry I haven't updated the thread in a while. I will try to get something going soon with the alps switches

Not trying to rush you

. Just making sure they go there ok.

tubby · « **Reply #151 on:** Sun, 07 October 2012, 08:25:54 »

I still have plenty of this left after greasing a couple of backspaces:

From the last couple of posts, I read that something too viscous would eliminate clicks.
But I'm only trying to reduce friction on Cherry clears. Would the white lithium grease be suitable for that?

Viz · « **Reply #152 on:** Sun, 07 October 2012, 08:40:46 »

Great guide.

Arch4ng31 · « **Reply #153 on:** Tue, 09 October 2012, 02:17:41 »

So, I'm pretty sure I ran into a problem while trying to lube my keyboard... I have a Ducky Shine II, and apparently there's a metal plate that buts up directly under the switches making the removal of the cap nearly impossible. Is my only option to open it up and remove the plate temporarily? Or should I scrap the lube idea all together?

There's also an LED there, but looks as though it should just stay in place when I lift the cap.

tubby · « **Reply #154 on:** Tue, 09 October 2012, 03:55:12 »

Quote from: Arch4ng31 on Tue, 09 October 2012, 02:17:41

So, I'm pretty sure I ran into a problem while trying to lube my keyboard... I have a Ducky Shine II, and apparently there's a metal plate that buts up directly under the switches making the removal of the cap nearly impossible. Is my only option to open it up and remove the plate temporarily? Or should I scrap the lube idea all together?

There's also an LED there, but looks as though it should just stay in place when I lift the cap.

I think you will need to desolder the switches for plate mount boards.
And you might also need to do extra desoldering on the LEDs before you can remove the switch cover, because what seems to be a hole sized like the LED, is actually just a tiny slit.

Arch4ng31 · « **Reply #155 on:** Tue, 09 October 2012, 14:01:05 »

Ah hell... I have almost no soldering experience. I also already bought my lube :/ Very unfortunate. Well, thanks for the info!

MMB · « **Reply #156 on:** Wed, 10 October 2012, 14:03:46 »

I also offer swapping services (de-soldering & soldering), if you need it.

WRXChris · « **Reply #157 on:** Wed, 10 October 2012, 14:12:06 »

I spent last night stickering my poker and swapping to lubed ergo-clears! I used a mix of gpl-205 and gpl-103 for the sliders and victorinox multi tool oil for the springs. It is sooo quiet and is a dream to type on! It definitely feels much better than my non-lubed filco with ergo clears. The stickers pretty much eliminate pcb-mount switch wobble, and they also lowered the pitch of the sound. All around awesome. If it wasn't such a PITA I would do this to all of my boards!

MMB · « **Reply #158 on:** Wed, 10 October 2012, 14:13:49 »

Cloud of boobs, Chris?

The 205 really is amazing.

Thanks for sharing!

limmy · « **Reply #159 on:** Wed, 10 October 2012, 20:43:59 »

Quote from: WRXChris on Wed, 10 October 2012, 14:12:06

I spent last night stickering my poker and swapping to lubed ergo-clears! I used a mix of gpl-205 and gpl-103 for the sliders and victorinox multi tool oil for the springs. It is sooo quiet and is a dream to type on! It definitely feels much better than my non-lubed filco with ergo clears. The stickers pretty much eliminate pcb-mount switch wobble, and they also lowered the pitch of the sound. All around awesome. If it wasn't such a PITA I would do this to all of my boards!

I am glad you liked my suggestions. It definitely feels better, doesn't it? I must agree that the time and effort that go into the mod is pretty significant.

However, once you experienced smooth switch action, it would be pretty hard to go back to unmodded switches.

The_Beast · « **Reply #160 on:** Wed, 10 October 2012, 20:45:29 »

Quote from: WRXChris on Wed, 10 October 2012, 14:12:06

I spent last night stickering my poker and swapping to lubed ergo-clears! I used a mix of gpl-205 and gpl-103 for the sliders and victorinox multi tool oil for the springs. It is sooo quiet and is a dream to type on! It definitely feels much better than my non-lubed filco with ergo clears. The stickers pretty much eliminate pcb-mount switch wobble, and they also lowered the pitch of the sound. All around awesome. If it wasn't such a PITA I would do this to all of my boards!

How long did it take you? I think mine took about 4 hours, but I already had all the switches torn apart to the point that I just needed stickers to start

MMB · « **Reply #161 on:** Wed, 10 October 2012, 20:50:41 »

You really need to work on trying to find one of these:

it will make the task much simpler. You can also use a plate from an old keyboard as well, and create some makeshift legs to prop it up, if you cant find the official one.

The_Beast · « **Reply #162 on:** Wed, 10 October 2012, 20:55:29 »

Quote from: MagicMeatball on Wed, 10 October 2012, 20:50:41

You really need to work on trying to find one of these:

Show Image

it will make the task much simpler. You can also use a plate from an old keyboard as well, and create some makeshift legs to prop it up, if you cant find the official one.

I don't think I would lube enough switches to make that worth while. Stickers took just as much time to put on as lubing the stems, sliders, and springs.

WRXChris · « **Reply #163 on:** Wed, 10 October 2012, 20:59:17 »

thanks again for the suggestions limmy! It sure is nice to have you around here!

it took me 5 hours, and that includes taking the caps off, disassembling the poker, pulling the stems out of new clear switches, and cleaning all of the stems. Seems to be in line with the amount of time it too you, beast! Also, I still have 7 switches to go; I still need to break out the desoldering iron and do the switches with leds (that's why no pictures, lol). My back was hurting too much to finish the job in one sitting, being tall sucks from time to time!

WRXChris · « **Reply #164 on:** Tue, 16 October 2012, 04:17:41 »

I finished my Poker tonight! It feels so amazing and is so quiet, even quieter than the only rubber dome in the house. I used a regular clear spring for the spacebar.

MMB · « **Reply #165 on:** Tue, 16 October 2012, 19:39:59 »

Very nice, Chris! I need to start working on my own boards some time soon. Got too many other peoples boards on my plate

The_Beast · « **Reply #166 on:** Tue, 16 October 2012, 19:47:31 »

Quote from: WRXChris on Tue, 16 October 2012, 04:17:41

I finished my Poker tonight! It feels so amazing and is so quiet, even quieter than the only rubber dome in the house. I used a regular clear spring for the spacebar.
Show Image

Mine isn't that quiet :'(

DraJin · « **Reply #167 on:** Tue, 16 October 2012, 20:53:59 »

My lubrication Board. This is prototype by KBDmania Duck0113.

)
: )

MMB · « **Reply #168 on:** Tue, 16 October 2012, 20:56:01 »

Very nice, DraJin!

Is that 104 holes?

Sifo · « **Reply #169 on:** Tue, 16 October 2012, 20:58:14 »

That thing's massive.

I counted 21x4 unless there's more off the screen.

rowdy · « **Reply #170 on:** Tue, 16 October 2012, 23:19:01 »

I got 23 * 4.

WhiteFireDragon · « **Reply #171 on:** Wed, 17 October 2012, 00:16:11 »

It's at least 23 x 4, might be larger because you can't see the rest of it off camera. Dam that thing is long. *In b4 "that's what she said" joke*

MMB · « **Reply #172 on:** Wed, 17 October 2012, 00:17:36 »

Quote from: WhiteFireDragon on Wed, 17 October 2012, 00:16:11

It's at least 23 x 4, might be larger because you can't see the rest of it off camera. Dam that thing is long. *In b4 "that's what she said" joke*

Bro... you HAVE to allow for a 'that's what she said' joke. You can't do an *in b4* on that one. It's just not right.....

MMB · « **Reply #173 on:** Wed, 17 October 2012, 19:30:55 »

Sorry for the lack of updates guys. I have a lot of projects on my plate right now - switch conversions, new builds, keycap designs, etc, etc. I will try to update as soon as I can.

T_T

Sifo · « **Reply #174 on:** Wed, 17 October 2012, 19:32:35 »

You forgot painting

(Sorry bro! Appreciate your time and efforts )

The_Beast · « **Reply #175 on:** Sat, 27 October 2012, 00:39:32 »

I did some lube test tonight (wink wink)

I used:
Super Lube:

Teflon Non-Stick:

Teflon Silicone:

At first they all felt the same. But once I put them on a plate, OMG so different. All stickered ergo clears

Super Lube: Quietest, Smooth for something that's tactile
Teflon Non-Stick: Average, Somewhat sticky
Teflon Silicone: Loudest, Sticky

TBH I'm liking the super lube the most because it's quiet, still tactile but also smooth

View My Video
Heart = Super lube
Club= Teflon Silicone
Diamond = Teflon Non-Stick

MMB · « **Reply #176 on:** Sat, 27 October 2012, 00:43:28 »

How sticky was it, bro?

The_Beast · « **Reply #177 on:** Sat, 27 October 2012, 00:45:09 »

Not good bro. Stock browns are better

TheProfosist · « **Reply #178 on:** Sat, 27 October 2012, 00:59:54 »

Superlube is good depending which variation you get i believe we were talking about this in the old thread pre-worm

MMB · « **Reply #179 on:** Sat, 27 October 2012, 01:03:36 »

On the last couple of boards I have been building, I have mixed Krytox 205 with GPL-100. It's been quite successful. Very smooth, no sticky keys and nice and quiet.

The_Beast · « **Reply #180 on:** Sat, 27 October 2012, 01:04:56 »

That's why I didn't think it was going to work all that well, it's pretty thick stuff

cgbuen · « **Reply #181 on:** Sat, 27 October 2012, 01:46:30 »

Interesting. Is this the one? I was thinking about jumping on a $4 bottle of the Du Pont Teflon Silicone, but could go for the Super Lube at $6. Any thought on whether it would be safe in the long run?

TheQsanity · « **Reply #182 on:** Sat, 27 October 2012, 06:29:34 »

Lubing station??? How did this happen? What is krytox normally used for? Anybody use deoxit? Any difference frim them?

TheProfosist · « **Reply #183 on:** Fri, 02 November 2012, 02:40:47 »

Got myself a lube station and my lube it on the way keyboards beware

jeroplane · « **Reply #184 on:** Fri, 02 November 2012, 03:27:00 »

Quote from: TheQsanity on Sat, 27 October 2012, 06:29:34

Lubing station??? How did this happen? What is krytox normally used for? Anybody use deoxit? Any difference frim them?

I think they're most commonly used for lubing the wheels of pinewood derby cars.

Anyone know places to buy lube that might ship to Australia? Going to be modding Blacks to ghetto Reds and would like to lube it in the process.

The_Ed · « **Reply #185 on:** Fri, 02 November 2012, 03:57:54 »

Quote from: jeroplane on Fri, 02 November 2012, 03:27:00

I think they're most commonly used for lubing the wheels of pinewood derby cars.

Anyone know places to buy lube that might ship to Australia? Going to be modding Blacks to ghetto Reds and would like to lube it in the process.

I ship worldwide. Do you want 100, 106, or MechLube?

TheProfosist · « **Reply #186 on:** Fri, 02 November 2012, 14:36:00 »

I got my lube off ebay many times they ship world wide

Michael · « **Reply #187 on:** Fri, 02 November 2012, 18:59:20 »

1. Krytox GPL-105 Higher viscosity, better for using on sliders

2. Krytox GPL-103 Lower viscosity, should be fine for all lube points

3. Krytox GPL-100 Lower viscosity, should be fine for all lube points

3. RO-59

4. Teflon Silicone Lubricant A low viscosity lubricant, good for all applications

5. Krytox GPL-205 Grease A heavier substance, recommended for everything but clicky stems.I have links on where to buy the different types of lubes in the first post of the guide, but I will put them here again for you:

jeroplane · « **Reply #188 on:** Sat, 03 November 2012, 03:19:41 »

Sorry MMB, I should have clarified. I've read through your guide two or three times and it's all been really clear and helpful, which is what made me decide that I would like to try it myself.

After reading I figured the Krytox 100 and 103 would be ideal, but most of the sites (incl. eBay) don't ship internationally.

Although I've only just seen the eBay sales for the GPL-205, which you've recommended for all-purpose use, and they ship internationally so I think I'll go for that.

Thanks for the help and the great guide.

TheProfosist · « **Reply #189 on:** Sat, 03 November 2012, 03:22:26 »

I went with the gpl 205 as well though it stuck on the east coast at the moment preventing me from lubing.

jeroplane · « **Reply #190 on:** Sat, 03 November 2012, 03:27:18 »

Quote from: TheProfosist on Sat, 03 November 2012, 03:22:26

I went with the gpl 205 as well though it stuck on the east coast at the moment preventing me from lubing.

Ah damn, so that's what's holding up your KMAC build. I've been waiting to receive something from the States and it seems like it's been delayed due to Sandy too.

How much did you order? I am wondering what would be sufficient for lubing a single 104-key board.

TheProfosist · « **Reply #191 on:** Sat, 03 November 2012, 03:33:12 »

Yes sadly that is one thing that is holding up my KMAC build. I ordered one tube from the link thats in this thread. I read its more then enough for multiple keyboards. I will eventually find out how many as i have like 8 keyboards to lube total currently.

Kibble Fat · « **Reply #192 on:** Tue, 13 November 2012, 02:02:00 »

Hi everyone, this is my first post here and yes, I read the whole thread

!

I bought a sample kit from WASD containing 1 of each black, red, brown, and blue MX switches. I'm glad I did since the brown I thought I would for sure enjoy is kind of a let down...

Has anyone taken video of a lubed mx-blue? I love the feel of the blue compared to brown, but can't get over the loud high-pitched click (with o-ring). I'm thinking I'll try a few greases from work. We commonly use Krytox and recently a cheaper option that copes with heat aging better, has all the performance characteristics of Krytox, and doesn't squeak after abusive 13k-20k cycle tests (various plastic mechanisms). I will get the info on the cheaper stuff since a lot of you aren't keen on experimenting with multiple Krytox greases. When I say cheaper, it might only be a few percentage points cheaper -- ha!

I'm torn between browns and blues...

Stock browns have a grainy feel to them and the engagement point is vague. I like the silence. I want to love them.
Stock blues feel lighter to actuate than the browns (maybe less work?). It just takes a quick slap of the finger and you know it's been pressed. So satisfying. O-rings reduce the volume, but what's left is the loud high-pitched click that drives me nuts. I can't see myself getting used to it.

IMO of course

I'm hoping some experimentation with different lubes will help me make a decision as it seems the negative qualities of each could be addressed. Anyways, a vid of lubricated blues or browns would be greatly appreciated. I will do some experimenting on my own, I'm just not sure which Krytox(es) I have access to

Cheers,
-Eric

sth · « **Reply #193 on:** Wed, 14 November 2012, 12:57:42 »

Ahhh it's taken me a hot minute to get around to this but I wanted to make sure I had ample time to get used to the switches before I made any judgements. No proofing or drafting, just a little period of barfing on the keyboard

MMB built a platemount board with lubed ergo clears for me pretty recently. When I got it the first word that came to mind was 'mushy'! I actually wasn't sure I was going to like the feeling. I believe he used fairly viscous lubricant. It's hard to say without having a non-lubed ergo clear board but it almost feels like the lube increases the amount of force needed to actuate the switch while simultaneously reducing the friction. That's the best way I can describe it, even if it's not technically the case.
However after a week or so of thocking away (it sounds and feels much more like a topre than any other MX board I own) I have to say I've really come to like the feeling. It's very unique -- even comparing it to Topre switches doesn't do it much justice. Whenever I switch switches my accuracy goes down as I acclimate to the force and tactile feel, and it really didn't take too long for me to start gliding on this board. I need to look into lubing or shimming the spacebar stabilizer in such a way that it feels a little closer to the rest of the keys because the stabilzer clack is a bit louder than everything else (not on the bottom out but on the return rebound).
All in all I'm really pleased with the work and having a completely unique board. I can't say that I prefer lubed switches definitively over non-lubed switches but they are about equal in my book - just providing very different tactile experiences. I am greatly looking forward to MMB's next build with lighter lubricant and tactile+clicky switches.
If anyone has any particular questions or anything let me know and as always, if you want your board built to stellar standards with an insane attention to detail, MMB is one of the best options out there

TheProfosist · « **Reply #194 on:** Wed, 14 November 2012, 16:14:46 »

I agreed with Ergo Clears feeling like topre's.

The_Beast · « **Reply #195 on:** Wed, 14 November 2012, 16:41:03 »

Quote from: TheProfosist on Wed, 14 November 2012, 16:14:46

I agreed with Ergo Clears feeling like topre's.

What kind of topre? 55g, 45g, or 30g?

TheProfosist · « **Reply #196 on:** Wed, 14 November 2012, 17:39:35 »

Quote from: The_Beast on Wed, 14 November 2012, 16:41:03

Quote from: TheProfosist on Wed, 14 November 2012, 16:14:46
I agreed with Ergo Clears feeling like topre's.

What kind of topre? 55g, 45g, or 30g?

they feel like the actuation of a topre so idk if wait matters. i only have 45g topre to compare to i havent lube ergos yet but will be on the third KMAC im building.

sth · « **Reply #197 on:** Wed, 14 November 2012, 19:47:38 »

Quote from: The_Beast on Wed, 14 November 2012, 16:41:03

Quote from: TheProfosist on Wed, 14 November 2012, 16:14:46
I agreed with Ergo Clears feeling like topre's.

What kind of topre? 55g, 45g, or 30g?

well it feels 'heavier' than my 45g. i haven't tried 55g so I couldn't say for sure.

jeroplane · « **Reply #198 on:** Sun, 18 November 2012, 05:39:23 »

Have you guys used Browns before? Would you say converting from Browns to Ergo Clears (I will be lubing them) is worth the ~$50 cost?

MMB · « **Reply #199 on:** Sun, 18 November 2012, 10:22:13 »

My mini board is using lubed and stickered MX browns, and I have to say I like them. The difference in the tactile bump between browns and clears is definitely noticeable. But that's really all personal preference.

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Author Topic: Cherry MX Switch Lubrication Guide (Read 507152 times)