keycap DIY

[Matt3o]

I wanted to try to make my own keycaps, so I got some silicone and epoxy resin... and I must say that it's harder than it seems

1) I made the key a little thicker filling some resin into it



2) bi-adhesive tape on the key



3) the key positioned together with 3 reference pins



4) silicone... wait 24h



5) 24h later



6) coat with vaseline



7) mold ready!



8 ) end result



Unfortunately the stem is not perfect and I have to redo the male part of the mold, but I'm quite satisfied as a first try. I need to find a thicker keycap to make the mold, the one I have is too thin, not really good for molding.

[i3oilermaker]

Wow that looks awesome! Where did you get your materials?

[boost]

Nice. But where's the fill port?

[Matt3o]

I've found everything in a local arts and crafts store.

There are many kinds of silicone for molding, being the key so small I took the smoothest one (it is called "10 shore" I believe). It has a very long dry out period (24h) but you don't have to worry about air bubbles since they mostly evaporate in the first couple of hours.

The epoxy resin is the clearest I've found, it is mixed with the reagent at 1/4 proportion and when wet it's smooth like baby oil.

I already ordered some thicker PBT keycaps to make a better mold. I must say it's a time consuming task and you have very little margin for error.

Nice. But where's the fill port?

I tried without it. I just put the resin into the female and closed with the (resin coated) male mold.

[Mugen]

Without the fill port you'll have a hard time getting a cap without air bubbles. also - from experience would recommend building a small vacuum chamber that will basically suck the air out of the cast. You can build one with ~30$, in the process of building one myself - waiting for my pump.

Boost did you use a vacuum chamber with your molds?

[__red__]

You were far more successful than I.

My mold was perfect but my keys had bubbles, lots of bubbles.

Let us know how you progress!

[boost]

Boost did you use a vacuum chamber with your molds?

Nope. Got a ****ton of bad keys. Lol.

[funkymeeba]

What we really could use is a nice wiki page that details this whole process. It doesn't seem overly scientific, but does seem like something that will take some effort to do well.

[Mugen]

What we really could use is a nice wiki page that details this whole process. It doesn't seem overly scientific, but does seem like something that will take some effort to do well.

That would definitely be helpful, but I think only someone like Clack can put something really good together as it seems he mastered the technique.
I dont know of anybody else who does it that consistently.

[funkymeeba]

Maybe with what the rest of us presently know, yes. However, there's plenty of smart people here. Someone's bound to come up with a good way to do it.

[Matt3o]

I've found a vert good epoxy resin, if you put it into the stem before closing the mold it's close to impossible to have bubbles. As you can see from the picture the key turned out very clean. But I'm still a noob I probably have to trash a dozen molds before mastering the technique, next time I'll try with vents.

[SmallFry]

That sir, was super cool! Congrats on the cap!

[Mugen]

I've found a vert good epoxy resin, if you put it into the stem before closing the mold it's close to impossible to have bubbles. As you can see from the picture the key turned out very clean. But I'm still a noob I probably have to trash a dozen molds before mastering the technique, next time I'll try with vents.

Can you post a picture of the Resin youre using? with standard caps everything goes well, but if you try to cast something with more complex details (like a face with eyes and a mouth) then the risk of bubbles greatly increases.
I should get my pump tomorrow after which i'll probably be spending the weekend putting together with a chamber and running some pressure tests, if its successful (and maybe if it isn't) i'll post the details here.
So far all the materials cost me ~35-40$ but im sure i'm forgetting something and will have to stop by homedepot or what not.

[Matt3o]

you are right, I was not considering complex keys. Looking forward to seeing your report.

The resin is an Italian product called SIRIOEPOS 552 (http://www.archiproducts.com/en/products/52183/andromeda-chemical-anchor-sirioepos-552-proind.html). It's not properly for casting but it's really good.

They define it "superfluid" and it really is, it's almost watery for the first 5 minutes. When it is still fluid brush it into the mold taking care to fill all the holes, then fill the female mold and wait few minutes for the resin to become gelly, at that point you can close the mold. You shouldn't have any bubbles in this way.

[__red__]

The resin I use is specifically designed for precision parts so is specifically designed to have no shrinkage.


Did your resin shrink during curing?

[Matt3o]

no shrinking whatsoever

[Paranoid]

nicely done I'm gonna make some myself but still waiting for my materials to arrive. You definitely need a fill port and (at least) one to let the air out.
I don't own any vacuum equipment, nor do I have knowledge to build one myself, so hoping that some vibrating will get all the bubbles out.

[Mugen]

The resin I use is specifically designed for precision parts so is specifically designed to have no shrinkage.


Did your resin shrink during curing?

What Resin is that?

nicely done I'm gonna make some myself but still waiting for my materials to arrive. You definitely need a fill port and (at least) one to let the air out.
I don't own any vacuum equipment, nor do I have knowledge to build one myself, so hoping that some vibrating will get all the bubbles out.

If you have a laundry machine, you can just place your cast on that - it worked for me. problem is i live in an apartment building with a shared laundry room, so people were looking at me weird when I brought my Resin >_<

[Computer-Lab in Basement]

Would like to learn how to do this myself someday.  What kind of plastic did you use to make they key itself?

[Matt3o]

epoxide resin. it's a 2 components resin which solidify at room temperature. You can also color it by adding some pigment

[Computer-Lab in Basement]

Must find these materials... WANT TO MAKE MY OWN CAPZ!!!!

Any chance you could post some links to where I might be able to purchase said materials?

[Matt3o]

I took them from a local retailer (they do not sell online) but I believe you can find pretty much everything you need here http://www.smooth-on.com/Model-Making/c1290/index.html

The silicone I used is close to what they call "Mold Max 10". They don't seem to have the resin I used, anyway they have interesting howtos and faqs, I'm sure you'll find all you need.

[Computer-Lab in Basement]

Thanks, I'll look into that.  Hopefully I can make my own custom keycaps someday like this...

[Matt3o]

a quick update, while waiting for the new thicker keycaps to arrive I've found a local dealer which sells epoxy pigments in the following selection http://www.ralcolor.com/

Add 1% of pigment (which is a gel/paste) for a transparent effect, add 10% to get a solid color.

[Matt3o]

Another very interesting find. Transparent silicone rubber so you can see if and where you have bubbles:



More info http://www.prochima.com/public/eng/CRISTAL%20RUBBER%20ing.pdf

[Paranoid]

If you have a laundry machine, you can just place your cast on that - it worked for me. problem is i live in an apartment building with a shared laundry room, so people were looking at me weird when I brought my Resin >_<

Damn, why didn't I think of that I'll have to stand on a ladder for that though since the dryer is on top of the washer ^^

Another very interesting find. Transparent silicone rubber so you can see if and where you have bubbles

That's the silicone that I'm gonna use, and am comfortable with. That way you can also make easier cuts in difficult molds. I'm just curious how it's gonna go without a whole lab (like in college). Still waiting for it to arrive

a quick update, while waiting for the new thicker keycaps to arrive I've found a local dealer which sells epoxy pigments in the following selection http://www.ralcolor.com/

Add 1% of pigment (which is a gel/paste) for a transparent effect, add 10% to get a solid color.

Is the brand called ralcolor or are these just the color codes?

[Matt3o]

Is the brand called ralcolor or are these just the color codes?

I think RAL is the color code.

[__red__]

The resin I use is specifically designed for precision parts so is specifically designed to have no shrinkage.


Did your resin shrink during curing?

What Resin is that?

I use GI-1000 for my silicone and OC-7086 for my resin.

This is the kind of accuracy you can get with these resins:

Red

[__red__]

I am currently casting a couple of Model M caps, a Model F barrel and a Model F full key.  I'll report back when I know how they come out.

[Matt3o]

how long does it take to your resin to cure? I've found a resin that cures in 30 minutes (the one I used before takes 18h) and I'm temped to try it

[Computer-Lab in Basement]

I am going to order myself some of these materials later this week and will try to make myself some homemade keycaps.  I might try casting some of the small SiiG MiniTouch F keys, along with some MX keycaps, of course... can't wait to try this out!  Thanks for posting this thread, Matt3o!

[__red__]

how long does it take to your resin to cure? I've found a resin that cures in 30 minutes (the one I used before takes 18h) and I'm temped to try it

Sorry, let me give you a more specific answer:
GI-1000 (Used to create molds) -> 16-18 hours cure time.  I de-mold it usually in about 6-8 hours.

OC-7086 - (Water-clear urethane) -> You can remove it from the mold in 3 - 4 hours.  Strictly speaking it doesn't fully cure for a week but you likely wouldn't notice any difference between 24 hours and 1 week unless you had test equipment.

GI-1000 is expensive at $14.50 per lb (2lb quantity) or $10 per lb (10lb quantity).  It's so worth it.

Unless you are willing to invest in a lot of effort, vacuum chamber, pressure pot and incredible attention to detail I would not recommend OC-7086 as it is incredibly sensitive to everything and will form bubbles with the slightest excuse.

I'm currently testing other urethanes to look for a more practical for home use formulation.

EDIT:
After discussing my requirements with their chemist, I'm going for IE-3080 from innovative-polymers.com.

[fl0w3n]

Post more pictures of results!

I'd be interested in trying this as well. 

Would doing some sort of small print out with some sort of special paper/ink, and then laying it in the mold give you the ability to make caps with images? 

[__red__]

Two different resins, no vacuum or pressure.

Mold release and patience will improve the quality.  Specifically, the bad habit I have of opening molds 12 hours too early.

[Matt3o]

not bad at all. I agree patience is the key

I'm still waiting for the keycaps to make the new mold, at this point I believe they got lost in post office. Next week I'll order more, maybe from Europe this time, are qwerkeys keycaps thick?

[__red__]

feature=youtu.be

Working Model F prototype.  Now to cast in clear-glass!

[Mugen]

Where can i order this fast resin stuff? the resin that i have hardens in like 90 seconds but i get bubbles like a mofo. so far my attempt to build a chamber has not gone well, pump is not strong enough.

[Matt3o]

feature=youtu.be

Working Model F prototype.  Now to cast in clear-glass!

 

[Computer-Lab in Basement]

Just ordered all the stuff I need to make myself some homemade keycaps!  Can't wait to get them in the mail... will post my first attempts once I get them.  Thanks for the links, Matt3o!

[Mugen]

Just ordered all the stuff I need to make myself some homemade keycaps!  Can't wait to get them in the mail... will post my first attempts once I get them.  Thanks for the links, Matt3o!

Where did you make the order, the company i spoke to only did the orders by phone, same?

[Computer-Lab in Basement]

I ordered from this site:

http://www.smooth-on.com/Model-Making/c1290/index.html

[Computer-Lab in Basement]

Just got these in the mail today:



Time to try out this DIY keycap-making process...

[Wess]

Just got these in the mail today:

(Attachment Link)

Time to try out this DIY keycap-making process...

Looks great!! ... Now what will you make? Pics plz Would be great if you documented the whole process in a separate thread

[Computer-Lab in Basement]

I'll be sure to do that when I make another mold.  I started making the first half of the mold about an hour ago, but it's gonna have to cure overnight before I can make the second half.  It's my first time doing this, so I'm not expecting anything great.  I'll post pics soon.

[rowdy]

Take your time the first time around - once you are familiar with the process you will know when you can cut corners and when not.

[Computer-Lab in Basement]

^This.  That's why I'll probably end up by letting the mold cure for a few extra hours so I don't end up my messing it up or something...

[__red__]

It's counter-intuitive but the thinner the part, the longer the urethane takes to cure.

[neeb]

Any update/new pics on this guys? Really awesome work so far! I want to give this a try when I have some extra money

[proest]

Wow, this is awesome! I think I'll try this out...

[__red__]

This it's using easy-cast.  I would recommend against it's use as it's too flexible.

[__red__]

A requested, photo of my mold.

[neeb]

Awesome work Red!

[__red__]

I have 30 minuets to my next Dee-mold time.  If the spilt plastic is anything to go by we're about to start an obsession :-)

[__red__]

Tah dah!

[jeroplane]

  Imagine those on a backlit keyboard. Great colour, and the molds are looking neat!

[jwaz]

Woah that raspberry color is great, are the stems firm enough to take a beating?

[neeb]

Red: Wow, that's effing awesome! I would love to see some more videos (if possible) when you have some free time man, epic work so far! How many keycaps are you making at a time? It looks like there's quite a few on the 2nd attached image of your last post. Also, have you tried anything for MX yet?

Matt3o: Anything new in your efforts? I know you were waiting for a better keycap to arrive to make a mold from; I'd love to see how your little gems are coming along !

Computer-Lab in Basement: Have you punched out any keys yet with your new supplies?

Really awesome work all of you, and anyone else that's been trying this and hasn't posted/posted in another thread/I forgot about. I think this is probably the most interesting post on GH atm, I would really love to give this a try (and plan to) when I have some extra money !

Edit: Btw, what is a Model F? Lol. Sorry, I'm still learning when it comes to all of this. The one that you made, is that like the switch/keycap for an IBM Model F or what exactly?

[Matt3o]

I received the keycaps a couple of days ago, now to the mold!

Actually the next step would be... CNC I can get one at a very reasonable price (€500) and I'm seriously considering it.

[neeb]

I received the keycaps a couple of days ago, now to the mold!

Actually the next step would be... CNC I can get one at a very reasonable price (€500) and I'm seriously considering it.

I really don't know much about modeling or anything crafty lol. Can you give a link to something you're considering that would work well for this?

[Matt3o]

It's a machine controlled mill to build 3D prototypes (from a 3d computer model). The one I should get is similar to this http://www.bluemelon.org/index.php/Products/BM0502_CNC_Mill

[neeb]

It's a machine controlled mill to build 3D prototypes (from a 3d computer model). The one I should get is similar to this http://www.bluemelon.org/index.php/Products/BM0502_CNC_Mill

So you would create a keycap in the software that goes with that bad boy and then it pops em out?

[Matt3o]

yes, I could sculpt a prototype I could build a mold from. Would be nice to be able to design any kind of 3D keycap
It would be also possible to build wooden keyboards for example.

[neeb]

yes, I could sculpt a prototype I could build a mold from. Would be nice to be able to design any kind of 3D keycap
It would be also possible to build wooden keyboards for example.

Would you be able to do different colors/designs or would this just mold the keycaps and you'd need something different for 3D printing or w/e you wanna call it?

[Matt3o]

multiple colors on the same key is extremely complex. The easiest would be to mask and spray color. There's a product called Mr.Masking (by Mr.Hobby) that makes masking pretty easy.

[neeb]

multiple colors on the same key is extremely complex. The easiest would be to mask and spray color. There's a product called Mr.Masking (by Mr.Hobby) that makes masking pretty easy.

No no I didn't mean different colors on the same keycap lol. I just meant if you're using one of these CNC mill machines, can you sculpt keycaps in any color you want or does it just sculpt them in some base color that you'd have to change using something else?

[Matt3o]

oh well. usually the milling machine is used for the prototype. You can use the prototype to make a mold and cast it in any color. Anyway you could have the CNC milling the final product. In that case you can use any material/color, from wood to aluminum (with everything in between).

[neeb]

oh well. usually the milling machine is used for the prototype. You can use the prototype to make a mold and cast it in any color. Anyway you could have the CNC milling the final product. In that case you can use any material/color, from wood to aluminum (with everything in between).

So you would likely be using the mill to make some nice 3D keycap prototypes, then make a mold by hand, and then cast actual keycaps? If that's the case, what are the advantages of that vs using the mill to produce the end product? is it more expensive to use the mill or why exactly would you want to mold/cast by hand instead of the machine?

[Matt3o]

depends on many factors. The number of keys you want to produce for example, or the material. If you want an aluminum key of course you have to mill it directly.

CNC is usually pretty slow. It might need 1 hour to make one side of the cap. So if you need a lot of keys you better make a mold. Also with a mold you have a wider range of colors you can choose from while you might not be able to find the prototyping plastic in the color you want.

[neeb]

depends on many factors. The number of keys you want to produce for example, or the material. If you want an aluminum key of course you have to mill it directly.

CNC is usually pretty slow. It might need 1 hour to make one side of the cap. So if you need a lot of keys you better make a mold. Also with a mold you have a wider range of colors you can choose from while you might not be able to find the prototyping plastic in the color you want.

Ahhh I see now, thanks for clarifying all of that. I apologize for the 20 questions there, I just find all of this extremely fascinating xD

[__red__]

Make sure you have deep pockets for the CNC.  The software chain is insanely expensive.

I'd start with casting an existing key / keycap.  Get that process down before you start milling wax.



Red

[Matt3o]

Make sure you have deep pockets for the CNC.  The software chain is insanely expensive.

why you say so? most of the softwares are free.

[__red__]

Not for three or four axis control.

[Matt3o]

I have a license for Mach3 which is an up to 6-axis CNC controller and it wasn't expensive at all (I paid less than $100 at the time I believe). It's not probably the most sophisticated software around, but it works.

Also there's a linux distro dedicated to CNC that is completely free.

[__red__]

The money isn't in the control software.  The money is in the G-Code generators.  CAM.

[Matt3o]

don't remember what I have as g-code generator. I built a cnc many years ago and indeed ending up with a good g-code wasn't easy. Lots of tweaking is needed. But if the model is not horribly complicated shouldn't be a problem.

[alvinliang]

it looks so cool, i wanna make my own key cap

[__red__]

I have fully functional caps using the problematic plastic.

I did it with red dye because I wanted to see the difference between easy plastic and hard plastic with the dye.

Anyways, photos!

[smilertoo]

Don't you get resins that you bake with UV lighting?