Swap Filco LED Indicator Color, how hard is it?

[Hyde]

Hello so if I'm not mistaken, I believe Filco Majestouch 2 LED indicator color goes something like this:

MX Blue/MX Brown = Blue LED
MX Red/MX Black = Red LED

I currently own a MX Red board so I have red LED.  But I want to have blue LED instead so is it gonna be hard for me to swap the LED?

I've read up a little bit about it it seems that different color LED have different required voltage, blue being a bit higher isn't it?

Will I be able to do a direct swap?  Like desolder the red LED and put in a blue LED and solder?

Also I'll admit I have ZERO soldering experience so I might need to learn that too though I can't imagine it being toooooooooooo hard I guess >____>

What do you guys think?

[WhiteFireDragon]

Blue and red LEDs run at very different voltages, and might be hard for a direct swap. Desoldering and soldering is required.

[WhiteFireDragon]

Ok I'll be less lazy and give a more detailed answer:

Here are some hypothetical numbers. Your red LEDs run at 2.0v, with 10mA current through them. That means there is probably a 300ohm resistor somewhere in the matrix. If you swap in a blue LED that's rated at 3.5v and also runs at 10mA, then you'll need a resistance of 150ohms. The problem is there is already a 300ohm resistor in there, so your blue LED will probably run dim.

Now if it's the other way around where you want to swap a blue LED for a red LED, then there is probably a 150ohms resistor in there, in which case you can just add another 150ohms resistor to the red LED so it limits the current. If you don't add the resistor, then it might run out of spec and have a reduced life, or if it's too out of spec then the LED will fry. LEDs will last a very long time when running within specs. Soldering a resistor is not hard, but there is just no room on the PCB to manually add the resistor.

I hope my math is correct.

[Hyde]

Damn..... I think this is too complicated for my level.  I'll probably leave it for now then 

[mistakemistake]

Ok I'll be less lazy and give a more detailed answer:

Here are some hypothetical numbers. Your red LEDs run at 2.0v, with 10mA current through them. That means there is probably a 300ohm resistor somewhere in the matrix. If you swap in a blue LED that's rated at 3.5v and also runs at 10mA, then you'll need a resistance of 150ohms. The problem is there is already a 300ohm resistor in there, so your blue LED will probably run dim.

Now if it's the other way around where you want to swap a blue LED for a red LED, then there is probably a 150ohms resistor in there, in which case you can just add another 150ohms resistor to the red LED so it limits the current. If you don't add the resistor, then it might run out of spec and have a reduced life, or if it's too out of spec then the LED will fry. LEDs will last a very long time when running within specs. Soldering a resistor is not hard, but there is just no room on the PCB to manually add the resistor.

I hope my math is correct.

see? you scared him off

[Hyde]

lol it's not too bad but I think I'm too lazy to find out where the resistor is at.  Otherwise for me swapping from red to blue, the worst scenario is just that I'll have a dim blue led.

Maybe I'll give this project another go after my warranty expires.

[WhiteFireDragon]

Well, that's why I gave a dumbed down answer first: "may not work, desoldering required"

But also gave a more technical one for anyone that cares, and also for someone else to check the math. Well good news is that LEDs are really cheap to experiment with. If it works then great, but if it frys or is too dim, you're only out a few bucks. One other thing to keep in mind is that LEDs have tolerances, so you can deviate from the rated specs just a tad. But you'll need a multimeter to verify the original LED's specs to order the new LEDs.

[WhiteFireDragon]

lol it's not too bad but I think I'm too lazy to find out where the resistor is at.  Otherwise for me swapping from red to blue, the worst scenario is just that I'll have a dim blue led.

Maybe I'll give this project another go after my warranty expires.

Well the thing is, the resistance might either be from the other components in series in the matrix, or a dedicated resistor. I haven't verified which one it is, so if someone knows, please post. One thing for sure though is that if it's a dedicated resistor, it'll be a small SMD resistor instead of through-hole components. These will be a lot harder to deal with when it comes to desoldering/soldering.

[Hyde]

lol yeah any pro modder out there know about this?

[shawn o]

I have swapped out 3 Filcos with red LEDs to blue w/o any issues 2 years running. And the blue LEDs aren't dim.

I've even swapped over white LEDs on Filcos with no issues at all. Left them all on for 24 hours straight and no problems.

[alaricljs]

The 87 key Filcos  have a 10kΩ SMD (tiny!) resistor for each LED.  These are mounted on the controller board which is clearly labelled.  There are no other components in the signal path between the controller and the LEDs.  I expect it's similar in the larger boards as they also have a daughter-board controller.

[Hyde]

I have swapped out 3 Filcos with red LEDs to blue w/o any issues 2 years running. And the blue LEDs aren't dim.

I've even swapped over white LEDs on Filcos with no issues at all. Left them all on for 24 hours straight and no problems.

Ahhhhh that's good to know, because I guess in our case we're doing red to blue so burning out the LED won't be an issue.  I was only worry about it being too dim so if I can't figure out the resistor thing maybe I'll try a direct swap like you said.

If I remember correctly that blue/white LED are the ones that needs higher voltage, but you said it wasn't dim or anything right.  So maybe give it a shot after my warranty expires lol 

Thanks dude !!!

[laffindude]

If anything, the blue LEDs on brown switch boards are way too bright. You definitely don't want to drive them as bright as Filco did.

[nullstring]

You can always get blue LEDs designed to run a 2v, can't you?

[Hyde]

If anything, the blue LEDs on brown switch boards are way too bright. You definitely don't want to drive them as bright as Filco did.

Haha good point didn't even think about that.  Since I don't own brown filco but I do remember hearing rumor about them being too bright 

You can always get blue LEDs designed to run a 2v, can't you?

Does such things exist?  If they do that would be awesome 

[Turbo Slaab]

I have blue LED's on my mx black Filco board. I WISH it had red.......

[Hyde]

I have blue LED's on my mx black Filco board. I WISH it had red.......

We can trade LEDs !!! LOL jk.

Uh on a serious note, I should look for 3mm LED right?

[WhiteFireDragon]

Yes 3mm, aka T1 size.

[Hyde]

Cool thanks !!!

[Hyde]

Sorry for bumping old thread, but I've decide to give this project a go.

So I've went to my local hardware store and somehow they only have this oval shaped 3mm blue LED that doesn't fit the slot too well.  Now I'm thinking to buy it online, anyone know any good online store that sell LEDs that delivers to Canada?

I've found 2 website that seems to be relatively reliable anyone has any experience with either of these?  Also Newark seems to a ridiculous amount of selection and it's a bit confusing  =_______=

Super Bright LEDs and Newark


EDIT:  Nvm I end up buying from http://lighthouseleds.com/ and I got 3mm Diffused LEDs

Clear Water LEDs are brighter but more directional while Diffused LEDs are a bit dimmer but has a wider viewing angle.  For status light I think diffused LEDs are better